Brad Clayton

Like this:

That earns the 5 headbanger.

I checked that place on google earth, man those are some humongous buildings.

I usually gauge it by how many red lights your town has, mine has 2....that's right 2 whole red lights. You can guess that I am making a killing.

The V-8 SHO Taurus were bad about RFI around the number 8 coil and it would zap the MAF and make the car run really odd.

Quote: Talk about a no lose situation for the dealer They'll lose when there aren't any techs to do the work!

Not sure what I was reading but you are correct and it only covers 2 year models.

Negative on cranking the engine, Mike.

I have yet to have a Viton leak, but I sand any imperfections down that may be on the bottom of those acorn nuts and lube the seals heavily with engine oil. Thanx, just doin my part for the community.....i.e. I'm bored as shite.

I haven't been on in a while with any photos so I thought I would put something up. This is the way I leak check the lines on the HPFP after R&R. This is probably a rehash for most of us but if it isn't, I would highly suggest doing something to check the fittings for leakage before reassembling the truck. It could make for a really bad day if you find out there is a leak when the truck is back together. Alrighty then, this is what I start out with: this is the old pvt adapter from the WDS and a home made fuel pump jumper. The jumper will work for 60's and 64's. I screw the hose into the fuel cooler line. And run the other end into a drain bucket so I can bleed the air out of the system. Plug the jumper into the fuel pump. Power the harness with a 12 volt source. I reassemble all the fuel lines on the truck so there are no breaks. I leave the right side of the heat shield off so the pump fittings can be monitored. I power the pump up and bleed the system by opening the fitting on the PVT hose. Once all the air is purged I close the fitting and let the pump run for 10 or 15 minutes. I periodically open the ball valve on the PVT hose to allow more air that gets picked up to bleed off. After running the pump for a while a close inspection of the fittings reveals everything is A OKAY. After doing this the truck will start right up with no worries and that is one less thing to have to bother with when the cab has been off and all the other fluids are all pooched out.

I want to get one for my sport bike this year. You know, so I can document some of my one wheel adventures.

Lost count on how many windstars I've done over the years. The recall appears to be pretty involved over 5 year models. Not sure if they are going to get a pump shaft or not, cause that's a tad more involved than just throwing a convertor at it.

The Ranger is all done also, in the states anyway. http://www.autoblog.com/2010/09/20/u-s-spec-ford-ranger-to-officially-end-production-in-2011-ford/

Ford releases a recall on the windbags again involving stripped torque convertors. I really thought I would never have to deal with them rusty ass subframes every again.

The only peeps that would have hated you would have been your co-workers, 'cause you would have been approving everything for us. Right? RIGHT?.........RIGHT?

There is a new TSB for the Super-Dutys. It involves the same operation, but they bumped it up to 4 hours so it must take twice as long. I gotta do one next week.

Oh they let him play alright........they use him as the target!

Oh, how I missed these words of wisdom.

The very first ones were equipped with both. The OBDI connector was under the hood on the drivers fender. You can reflash the PCM and it will update to OBDII and then you can actually have some better info to work with using the OBDII connector under the dash. One of the drawbacks for the customer back in the day with these things, the customer had access to a selectable RPM function. It was very user friendly and you could put the RPM just about anywhere for using PTO's and what not. After updating the PCM, this would go away and then the customer would have to purchase the 'ol APCM.

Ford will crush the vehicle.

Ah, so they offer a savings account that doesn't bear interest.

Two things that I have run into that can cause this. One is a thermostat not operating as designed and the second is blown head gaskets. You have already replaced the thermostat so I would check it for combustion gasses in the cooling system. I like to install a clear piece of hose inline with the heater hose inlet and watch the flow. I bet you don't have much flow coming out of the front cover at idle.