Brad Clayton

I would imagine those customers may have a bitch of a time with a warrantable claim if it was discovered their motor popped and said customer declined to have the recall done prior.

That is normal, the truck must be run or driven after replacing high pressure oil components or you will have erroneous readings with air checks. I was being humorous with the STC fitting comment, does it have the new one piece design installed?

Quote: I have not personally seen an inlet seal fail in years. Friggin' old tymer sittin' on the porch, in a rockin' chair, reminiscing.

If you ain't livin' life on the edge, your takin' up too much space!

That suckers clean enough to eat out of. I'm sure all your customers get that treatment, right? Looks good, post up a vid of some spinny doughnut thingys when done.

It looked bad but then you said the dreaded "E" word and it turned to this... I have actually met people at school who "claim" to like working on the e boxes. I say they need some couch time.

Quote: Do these use a modulated clutch in the transfer case to run power to the rear wheels for the 4wd/awd? The transfer case (PTU) is basically a set of differential gears, it's always driving. The Rear dif has a clutch setup on the front of it. That's why the rear looks so big. The clutches are controlled by a solenoid to send power to the rear when slip occurs. There is no driver input obviously and it works pretty seamlessly.

Sounds like all it's missing is the STC fitting delete.

Has nothing to do with anything on here, but they are some nice photos of me and Domo out and about in the tri-state area: http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/vv309/flmmaz/Adventures%20of%20Domo/?albumview=slideshow Slide shows are always too fast or slow, so I just hit the pause buton and then click the right arrow as I look thru. And just in case anyone thinks I am some kinda wing nut (which I am), this is a game type of deal on my motorbike forum. Domo is heading all around the world.

Just lost an 11mm deep impact socket under the turbos of a 64. When the motor blows up and it will, someone will have a Snappy socket to add to there collection. Fished around for about a minute and started gettin' real real mad, so I wrote it off.

Well, at least I know somebody is reading my stuff. Ain't it amazing how much them little ass sockets cost?

Good catch!!! I had 10 on the brain I guess.

"I'm sorry sir, these rotors are just too thin to be machined" They weren't warped though.

This from a guy over on the FMC: Quote: i did a short block and forgot the branch tube Oh man, I think that would have been the nail in the coffin for the end of my career.

Amen to that. I don't do brake jobs. They just aren't gravy like people think. The rust up here is very hard on rotor finishes and machining them on or off the vehicle is usually a bad idea. Our shop replaces a lot of rotors and most people cannot understand why they cannot be machined. I will say that we see a bunch of "warped" rotors <snickers> come from our detail department. They spray that damn tire gloss shit on everything but the actual tire and as soon as you drive away, presto a lateral run-out condition is set up! Quote: looking for high priced or gimmicky solutions like cryogenically molecularly modified brake rotors Speaking of, has anybody put on a set of them new "gray" rotors for the Flex/Taurus brake noise TSB? Them things are friggin' heavy! Adds a 100 pounds of sprung weight to the car.

My take on 6.4 lower oil pan replacement. I disconnect both battery ground cables. Remove all 4 bolts from the top fan shroud. Loosen the cold cac hose at the upper tube connection only. Loosen the intake hose from the air filter assy. It will look like this when the engine is raised: I lift the truck and drain the oil. I remove the left motor mount thru bolt and lubricate the mount wedge. This mount is designed like an old alternator bracket and the wedge slides back and forth in the groove and must be slid back some to allow easy removal. I take a prybar and place it in-between the space shown by the green arrows and pry the wedge (red arrow) back away from the mount. It doesn’t take much prying just need to move it over so it’s not binding on the mount. I remove the right mount nuts. I remove the steering stabilizer and the right tie rod end so I can access the crank pulley. I jack up the engine enough just to access the oil pan bolts a little easier. I remove the engine ground and the trans cooler line bracket to allow a little easier access to the right side pan bolts. This oil pan bolt is about the hardest to get to, but an 8 mm swivel socket makes short work of it. I remove the 2 lower bell housing bolts to give just a little more room for the pan to fall down. Now I reach in and remove the pickup tube and set it on the bench. I lower the truck and use a floor jack to jack the engine back up again. I do this so the wheels are on the ground and I can monitor what is going on under the hood. It gets pretty hairy jacking the motor up high enough for pan removal with the whole truck in the air. Once the high pressure turbo oil inlet starts to make contact with the cowl insulation, the engine is plenty high enough to get the pan out. I slide under the truck and remove the pan and check the gasket, then slide the new pan in place. I lower the engine and raise the truck again and reassemble everything. I bring it back down and button the three items up under the hood and fill it with oil and check for leaks. And that be that.

Yeah, tell him there's always plastic in the oil pan. All them tiny zip-ties on the injectors break up and fall into the pan on a bunch of these engines.

I'm not sure if you know this or not but.....I am a married man! And the wife has a tendency to look over my shoulder. Sure I am flattered by the offer and maybe a little curious but I have to respectfully decline your offer...."what's that dear?"...a..I gotta go.

I've said it before and I will say it again, that is an awesome shop. The photo is cool and I love the open feeling that the shop conveys.

Quote: Isn't it funny that in 800 and something miles, ball joints can wear out and brake hoses can crack. Our used car department wonders the same thing. Quote: And we wonder why people think we are hacks.... You gotta mouse in your pocket or somethin'?

Should be nice and easy to get to the location. How far up is it broken? I use a long ass screw and heat the shit out of it with a torch then drive it into the broken portion, let it cool, and leverage it out.

Quote: Have 10 F-450 6.4 55k miles and looks like its either leaking oil from the glow plug harness seal or the two piece head on the drivers side. So easy to tell when you an egr cooler in the way. Has anyone seen or dealt with this issue??? Welcome aboard! Is the oil leak at a particular portion of the engine such as number 2,4,6 or 8 cylinder location? Asking due to the idea that it maybe coming from a glow plug grommet.