Brad Clayton

Quote: I guess he got a hell of a deal. He got a deal alright, and then sold them fuckers for a small fortune to all his buddies!

Quote: one for a hydraulic fan???? Yes, and don't ever ever ever volunteer to replace the cooling fan drive on one of these units.

It's not listed under the hood anymore either.

I use this setup to press the bearing back in. The plate in the 3rd pic in the strip is sized to fit against the knuckle but not so big that it hits the abs sensor on the backside. Run it in 'til it stops. I always use a new snap ring. Now it’s time to put the flange back in. The hub must be pressed against the inner bearing or it will be separated and damaged. The second pic. shows the appropriate adapter to allow the screw to draw against the inner bearing race. The vehicle can be reassembled now reversing the disassembly process. When I get to the point of installing the control arms, I end up with this kind of thing here. The knuckle has a lot of outward tension pushing away from the rear end. A ratchet strap is employed to pull the knuckle towards the center of the vehicle to facilitate control arm installation. Just a bit of tension on the ratchet strap and the ball joint pops right into place. I install new retaining nuts on the control arms and put the brakes, shock, and wheel back on the job is complete.

Removing a rear axle from the knuckle of an Escape can be an annoying task to say the least. Replacing the rear wheel bearing can be an even greater pain in the…well it goes without saying. The procedure in the shop manual involves removing the entire knuckle from the vehicle and using a press to get the bearing in and out. Vehicles that roam around the Northeast make removing the knuckle an impossible task. Even if you get it get it out, it would most likely be damaged beyond repair and the knuckle is about $600 dollars. In an effort to save some time and frustration and to save the customer some undesirable cost, we use the Hub Tamer to service the bearings. Here is the way I perform the service. Today I am servicing the right rear bearing, here is the vehicle hoisted and tire removed already I mark the rotor to the hub so it gets reassembled in the same spot. The caliper needs to come off next but the shock is in the way. Since the shock needs to be removed to get the spring out, I remove the lower shock nut and swing the shock out of the way so I can get straight on the caliper bolts. If I were doing a brake job only, then I would deal with the shock being in the way and use a “speed” hex socket to get to the caliper bolts. That’s much better, and easier to get to the caliper bolts for proper fastener removal. I like to mark the spring to the knuckle, that way when I reassemble the vehicle I don’t have to fumble around with having my hand in the spring pocket to make sure the spring is seated against its stop. A descent screw jack (dead man stand) is essential for this job. Luckily the knuckle is designed with this nice little pocket that the jack will fit into. This makes the job safe and easy when it comes to loading and unloading the suspension to get the spring out. Remove the control arm nuts next and separate the arms from the knuckle. Now the knuckle can be lowered and the spring can be removed with ease. Now I push the axle out of the hub. Next I use the jack to raise the knuckle as high as physically possible. This requires prying the bump stop over or removing it entirely. It looks strange but it’s the easiest way I have found to get the axle out, because the stubs are so long. With a little force and extreme axle joint angling, the axle can be removed from the knuckle. It’s actually quite easy. Looks like this once the axle is free, and now the knuckle can be lowered back down until it hangs free on its own. Now the hub flange can be slide hammered out. The bearing snap ring retainer can be removed. Now it’s time for the Hub Tamer. There is no procedure for the Escape in the Tamer instructions, so it needs to be custom fitted. Once you have the basic knowledge of how the tool works, you can modify it to take out any bearing that will fit the provided adapters. I don’t use any of the numbers on the tools. Instead I match up the adapters to the bearing and knuckle bore. Here is the setup to press the bearing out. This tool can pop out some of the most stubborn bearings out there! I clean the snap ring groove out in preparation for the new bearing.

Quote: looks like I am going put a new pickup tube, oil pump, Please pack the oil pump gears with assembly lube before buttoning up and cranking over or you will never get enough suction to prime the system.

Like this.

Yes you can, here is a picture of it being used on a 6.4l to find a bad horizontal egr cooler.

Worked on a LCF once.......ONCE. We aren't a selling dealer. Man them things are way overbuilt....chassis wise.

AAhhhhhh are you referring to the short circuit in the timing cover (TC) that bypasses everything to get oil into the HPOP reservoir on cold starts? Whoa, it's all flooding into my brain now, that short circuit is in the front of the block, so what is this plug you speak of?

Quote: What model year? Early 7.3s had a relief valve that would blow out of the TC causing no LPOP. It's a 2000........what's TC stand for? Drawing a blank at the moment.

First thing I would do is have a sit down with the customer. They have left out a very valuable piece of information that would clear up what is wrong with this truck. I would dare say they have most likely done something that would be very embarrassing to talk about. This is usually the case. Get them to open up and spill the beans and then the failure will make sense. You are already in there so replace the pump dont dick around with measuring it, also replace the pick up tube, there is an updated one. Even though yours is fine then new one will be better. PACK THE PUMP GEARS WITH ASSEMBLY LUBE!!!! upon re-installation and fill the oil filter to the brim. That puppy should build oil pressure within 5 seconds of cranking. I would retest oil pressure with an actual gage and not the dash.

Hmmmmmm......looks like if I had scrolled up a post or two I would have seen that Keith thinks the same thing as I do.

What's the only thing better than Bruce's cutaways? Live action videos of Bruce's cutaways!

Glad it helped you out. How hard was it to come across this thread for you? Just curious, sometimes threads are hard to find after a week goes by let alone months.

Gheezuz H Grizzly, there are some fuckin' idiots over on the FMC boards today. I thought I would cruise over and have a look see while I was on the puter. Man, it's like IATN over there right now.

Just bought that same set, only 85 bucks 'Murican. Now I can change oil on anything!!!!!

Having trouble remembering, did you check the cooling system for combustion gasses?

Well at least you have a door to get in and out. Check this story out. This guy has some major skills and this is one amazing example of craftsmanship with a unique story. LAMBO IN BASEMENT

Ur gonna need a bigger garage.

ouchy

Like Chris said, it can happen on both sides of the core support. I usually just remove the 2 front fender liner bolts and pull back the front of the left and right fender liners to have a look see at the harnesses. It's like a mirror image on the other side of the truck.

Here is a nice link to a post with time saving info on how to get that tube in and out. Crappy Plastic Heater Tube Replacement Quote: The front cover I received is the new design What's that look like?