Brad Clayton

That's the thing, I didn't say anything bad at all. Here is the thread: Titled '06 6.0l no start Quote: Micheal WorsleyDavis Motors, Inc. Syracuse, KS (620) 384-7361 icp over 1000 fuel pressure at 60 psi ficm is synced and has 48v on m pwr when i crank engine over when the icp[ gets over 500 I can hear the injectors trying to fire but never fires over... June 26, 2012 10:02:55 AM Glen Stunkel Schimmer Ford Lincoln, Inc. Peru, IL (815) 224-4500 check icp pressure and voltage engine off it should read .24v and 0psi if it reads pressure replace icp and conn June 26, 2012 10:08:03 AM Howard Williams Elliott Ford Lincoln Mount Pleasant, TX (903) 572-3486 SECOND GLEN ON ICP -- THEN CHECK FOR COMBUSTION GAS IN FUEL SYSTEM --FUEL QUAILTY-- THEN POSSIBLE BAD INJECTORS June 26, 2012 12:14:40 PM Lonnie Rich Doug Gray Ford, Inc. Sayre, OK (580) 928-3369 check l and v power, could be the ficm relay ive seen it a few times. with good m power but bad l power. June 26, 2012 01:27:41 PM Micheal Worsley Davis Motors, Inc. Syracuse, KS (620) 384-7361 icp .23v and 0 psi no combustion in fuel June 27, 2012 05:06:13 PM Micheal Worsley Davis Motors, Inc. Syracuse, KS (620) 384-7361 switched out ficm relay with known good still same June 27, 2012 05:47:41 PM Howard Williams Elliott Ford Lincoln Mount Pleasant, TX (903) 572-3486 about all you got left if the injetcors themselves I chimed in after the fourth reply and simply suggested to check and make sure the block is not rusted where the cam sensor mounts, it only takes a second to look at it and you can even check the sensor ouput using the diesel cam timing tool in the IDS. I then replied instantly to apologize for some spelling errors and that was it. I checked back about 30 minutes later because I am monitoring a thread on there about my 6.7l long block parts list, and poof both my replies were deleted.

I was thinking the same thing at the time, but too lazy to type it up.

I do apologize for my crude language, I am usually quite reserved, but I got kinda got riled up over the issue. A Chuck Norris thread will go for 250 posts, but a legit repair thread......well, don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking MR. Norris in any way, I mean that would be suicide!

Just got my first post deleted by whoever runs the fuckin show over on the FMC boards. I was just trying to help out and had a genuine suggestion for what path to follow on a 6.0 no start. What a bunch of NAZI fucking asshole mutherfuckers over there.

This little bit of rust on the right side of the cam sensor mounting boss....... caused this...... Which caused cam codes and all sorts of troubles. A deburring bit on my whiz wheel made short work of the problem.

A persistent cam code issue has always turned out to be rust on the block, for me anyways.

Quote: Well if you didn't drop an F-250 off your lift today you're having a better day than me....

You don't have to worry about the power steering lines at the firewall because it has a vacuum brake booster, on an '04 the body bolts are studs so you don't have to fool around with aligning the body back to the frame, it's either there or it won't go! Take an extra few minutes to make sure the cab is strapped to the lift arm. Thats about it. Basically if something is going from the frame, motor, trans, ect. to the body then it must be disconnected. Even on your first time and taking extreme caution, you can have the body off in under an hour. Well worth it to, read the shop manual on how to get the motor out the way Ford wants it done and it will make you angry!!

Cab off is the best way to go on these!!! Wicked time savor.

We still use stickers in the corner of the windshield.

I bought a set yesterday, the Snap-on guy got me on an impulse buy.

Back in the day, before the internet, Ford would pay $100 bucks for a better way to do things. Idiots and super techs would get their 100 clams and then lose out on all the labor due to the time being "adjusted". Any one remember the Tempo/Topaz crank pulley labor time being 8 hours? Well I do and it took one "super tech" to change it to 1.0 hour flat! Of course now Ford doesn't pay shit, all they gotta do is monitor the boards.

It's rare to see charging problems on these even when they have a snow plow that pulls super high amps. What is alerting you to an intermittent charging concern?, gage low?, truck won't crank at times? Going thru two alternators on the same truck is even more rare. Are they Ford units?

If you run an aftermarket air filter in an ebp deleted '03, it can be a bitch to keep the check engine lite out.

I do a ton of trans work and I haven't used a remote starter button in the past 15 years. I have found it easier and quicker to put a 18mm 12 point socket on one of the 4 crank pulley bolts and bar it over by hand. It goes even quicker if you grab an hourly guy. Then you can just watch for the convertor nuts whilst someone else does the grunt work.

I used my points to buy a small college dorm style fridge which is under my work bench and a recordable dvd player. You had to shop out of Ford's supplied catalog. I kinda felt like a contestant on the old style wheel of fortune, I only had so many points and most of the prizes were way over priced.

I am assuming this an '08ish, we see lots o fuel sending unit issues. I have even had to replace multiple senders on the same truck.

The convertors you wing nut! Had a couple shit out up here in the far reaches of the U.S. and they down shift like garbage, a real neck snapper when they unlock.

If you find yourself needing a torque convertor for a 6.7 diesel, you will also get a new flywheel.....they dropped back to a six stud convertor. Seems they must be a havin' troubles with them things.

Lost count on how many bad fan clutches I have replaced. They usually only spin about 150 RPM when they shit out.