Brad Clayton

Direct result of an egr cooler that let go really fast, which was an indirect result of a leaking radiator.

I'd like for Dustin to chime in and see what toys he is wheelin' around in now.

Oh yeah, quite a few on our end. It usually starts with a leaking radiator and then the trickle down effect is catastrophic.

My driveway looks like a used car lot. I drive: '97 Explorer 5.0 (winter only) '93 Honda Accord (summer beater 35 mpg) '04 Suzuki GSXR 600 (pleasure vehicle) Wife drives an '05 Subaru Legacy (non turbo) Dear ol' mother-in-law drives an '02 Taurus My son drives a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee My other son is walking at the moment. And yes I absolutely, positively do no side work at home.

I haven't worked on a hybrid in a few years, you should have seen the scavenger hunt that ensued whilst trying to find that damn thing.

Bubba's tek tips are pretty funny on that site.

Jesum crow, anybody took a look at the labor ops and "do not use" overlaps. Man I feel for all the warranty clerks trying to sort that shit out.

I think it's gonna go pretty smooth. Still waiting on parts, so I am working on other stuff at the moment. Parts told me the head was here so I went to get it and almost dropped a hernia when I tried to pick it up. I said "dude this head is all aluminum, why is this box so heavy?" Opened it up and it was a 6.0 liter head. My confidence is pretty high in the parts department at this point.

Something to be on the look out for: Closer look: This harness runs to both sides of the truck in the exact same spot on the other side. It will cause all sorts of intermittent driveabilty problems. Especially common, are difficult to diag stalling concerns and continuous memory codes that keep popping up but are hard to replicate. This is easily checked by dropping the front of the fender liner.

I think it sucks ass! Losing a good tech. But I do wish you the best in your new endeavor and I hope it is a stepping stone to great things and a prosperous career.

She's gouged up pretty bad in there. It's tough to see due to being number 7 hole. The scoring is right where the o-ring sits. I will try to get better shots when the head is off manana.

It was suggested that the reason for these failures is due to the use of a prevailing torque to yield bolt for the injectors.

Got it tore down.

Haven't got very far with if yet. My main goal is to get the injector out and have a look see at the head. I am hearing about some pretty horrific stories pertaining to this situation. One guy at the Boston training center had the same thing happen and found 3 other crabs cracked and ready to let go. The injectors shucked around so bad, he had to replace both cylinder heads.

Robert, I would suggest having this customer get in touch with your local ambulance builder. They have the best, safest and most reliable disconnects and most aren't available to the general public. I would say that just by the way your questions and answers are reading in this thread, you are opening yourself and your dealer to a potentially huge liability. On a cold morning, these diesels will pull an incredible amount of amps after starting and glow plugging, and I think local parts store stuff will end up burning this truck to the ground.

Had a good one come in at the end of the day. Friggin crab broke and blew the injector clean out of the head.

This is what happens when I run out of diesel work. Poor guy just came in for a Vermont state inspection. Check engine light was on, hoped it might be a loose fuel cap (yeah right), turned out to be a stuck phaser.

Has three anchors that fit into the wheel vent holes for 5 vents and two anchors for 4 vents, these are chained to the unit, the hub fits against the axle and is on a bearing assy, the forcing screw is a 1 inch drive. Remove all the lug nuts and leave two on just a thread or two, fit the anchors thru the vent holes, snug the forcing screw up against the axle and turn til the slack is out of the chains, then give it hell with the impact and the wheel comes right off. Rinse and repeat for the inside wheel if needed.

Nonsense, our shop is equipped with the finest most professional mechanics around.

Well, we have tried everything under the sun, including the dual wheel buddy which is a total pile of crap btw. Here in Vermont duals just laugh at that thing. But we got this unit from Kiene diesel and I haven't run across a wheel it can't take off. This thing is the cats meow.

Thank you. I would have to say that the Escape was a wasted effort in the hybrid world. I would not recommend one if out of warranty for sure. The electrical system is way out of control in the pricing department. Starter motor (transmission): $8000. Alternator (dc to dc convertor): $2000. HVTB: 10 grand! We can't even make the call on batt replacements. We have to upload all the data from the car to the mother ship and then an engineer makes a decision. No matter how cut and dry the problem is, it's just too much for me and the dealer to shoulder if I am wrong. Had a great one come in a couple of years ago. Now keep in mind this customer bought a Hybrid Escape for fuel savings. He brings truck in with complaint of vehicle engine never shuts off to go into hybrid mode. I check it out and find out some electronics in the battery portion are bad and it thinks the battery is overheating. So not only is the engine running all the time but it's running to keep the air conditioning on to try and cool an overheating battery. It's about 20 degrees outside and the battery is not overheating. Great for fuel mileage!

This is an '05 Escape that had some cooling fan issues in the battery pack. High voltage traction battery cooling fan replacement is a straight forward and relatively easy repair that can be done by techs in the dealership. Ford requires the tech to be “certified” to do some repairs and not to do other repairs. If you can read the shop manual and all its warnings, your shop has the gloves, then I would say you are qualified to do this repair at least on the customer’s dime. The intake duct on the left needs to be removed and the interlock on the right needs to be placed in the shipping position. This “kills” the battery. Fold the rear seats down and unplug the small connector on the driver’s side and unbolt the large connector. There is a plate that covers the high voltage connector, unbolt it and then release the latch and unplug the connector (just like newer PCM latch connectors). Eyebolts work great for removing these batteries. I am too lazy to make some, so I just bolt two chains up. One across the front of the batt. and one from the center lifting attachment to the middle of the rear chain. Remove the bolts holding the batt. to the floor. Out she comes. Keep the chains tight to prevent hitting the headliner with the picker. Safety first! Remove both top covers. Air flow (shown in green) comes thru the vent in the left side window, into the fan ducts (fans under duct pointed out in red) and then across battery packs. The duct work is removed and laid to the front, the connectors are disconnected. Fans are then removed. Reassemble in reverse order and install new felt wrap around the connectors and new zipties where old ones had to be cut off for fan replacement. And that be that, if one was inclined to do so, this could be done in the vehicle with some short cuts and prying. The only drawback to short cutting any batt. repairs involves certain death!

It's been a while since I been down that road. Ah, brings back memories. I used to do a shit ton of head gaskets and heads on the old 7.3 and 6.9 IDI's. Although the Pstroke was a tad easier due to no spider web of fuel lines and intake assy, just had to monkey with the fuel line in the turbo area.

Man, that oil filter is far enough away from the engine already, I sure as hell wouldn't want anything restricting the flow of oil to and from it.

What happens if you have to work in another bay?