dieseldoc

reviva engines equal junk! I put a 7.3 reviva in for a guy, it started but made it 18 months and locked up tight with a piston sideways in the cylinder. I just replaced a reviva with a reviva in a package car at the cummins dealer I now work at. Tried to start it and no oil pressure. check everything out and finally had to pull the front cover and replace the oil pump. Put in a cummins oil pump and boom has oil pressure. get it running and has a terrible tick sound in the overhead valve adjustment way off. the reviva i pulled out had been in for a year before it locked up with a piston sideways and cylinder blown to pieces. I would definitly stay far far away from anything with a reviva sticker on it.

Well Kieth I have changed jobs and I'm an engine tech at the cummins dealer here. Spend the time getting familiar with quickserve, it is pretty good but takes a bit of time to learn where things are in there. Troubleshooting is very structured, FOLLOW the steps in order if you want to get paid warranty. the information with a fault code is great, the theory, a schematic of the circuit involved, shop talk is a common thing if there is for the code to look at, all on the page for that code with t/s steps to follow. all in all the the mid-range engines do pretty well. You guys will probably have to do some cummins training to get certified for warranty work, but not a big deal. post if you have questions and I will help if i can. The 6.7 md engines have a rear gear train, common rail, with vgt and egr, they also use scr on the 10' engines. All systems you have already seen, so nothing crazy new for you.

what year truck and what is the engine serial number? I will get you the ecm connector pin numbers. Can make a big difference if its a celect,celect plus, or an ism. . . .

It is a partnership between Caterpillar and Navistar. It will be branded as cat, and serviced and sold by cat dealers. Production has just started and the dealers here will be seeing them this fall. It will have a "maxepillar" 13 in it. The 15's wont be availaible until next year sometime. They are very very expensive compared to other brands. I am not saying they wont be a good trucks but they need to work on the price point if they plan to be competitive in the market they are looking for. In my opinion anyway. The trucks they are building are geared towards the vocational market, at this point they do not offer a sleeper cab option. If I remember correctly. I am very anxious to see one when they get here. My dealer here has 3 on order for demo use and what not.

I have a buddy with a 6.0 that I put a coolant filter on as well as flushed and switched to the cat conventional coolant when new. It has 100,000 mi on it now without plugging an oil cooler or any other coolant related issues. He does flush it every 25,000 mi and changing the filter. As well as testing the sca at every oil change. I do the same on my personal trucks and have had no problems. The cat elc is a good coolant as long as you stay on top of it. If you are going to run it I highly reccomend taking coolant samples and following what the lab says. the most important statement I will make in this reply is this. USE DISTILLED WATER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what do you think is in the scuzz ball water that flows out of the garden hose people use to fill the system. The water is JUST as important as the coolant you choose. After all it is half of what is in your cooling system

this is just my opinion, but if you are looking for something to last you a long time go with a snap-on epiq. they are expensive but worth the money in my opinion. I love my 60" epiq. I have owned a mac and it was not worth anymore than a similar craftsman would have been. It was tech 1000 so not there top of the line but anyway. I have worked with a few guys that have matco boxes and they are not happy with them, they like the price tag though. I have had several boxes and was ok with them. That epiq is awesome and I will never get rid of it. just my two cents

Unfortunately my bay was full of metro transit buses all week. 4 of them with pan gaskets on all 4 and rear seals on 2. I am glad my week is over until tuesday. Hopefully better jobs next week.

I am gonna call and talk to edge and get some questions answered on what the sensors will work with and what all you can do with it. will post what I find out

The add ons and all the possible pids and add your own extra sensors is what really got me interested. I definitely am adding the pyro and pressure sensor if it will work for fuel pressure. I am also considering the turbo timer. I am on a volunteer fire dept. since it is my primary truck, it is often what I am driving to get to the hall or a fire in a hurry and hate to shut it down right after hammering on it to get there.

Bottle of Pendelton whiskey for the guests. I am a lord calvert sour fan or brandy 7's are pretty good after supper. Theres alway coors light for those days when you just need a beer. I know not top shelf stuff but does the trick. Have a bit of a caffeine addiction need my two pops in the day. Finally gave up my copenhagen habit after 4 years of trying to quit and 12 years of chewing.

They have a system that allows you to daisy chain in several egt sensors if you want or other pressure and temperature sensors, you can also hook in a camera if you like. each chain can support two sensors or 1 pyrometer probe. They have a program you download where you can label and calibrate the sensors however you like. Looks like a pretty nice set up, but a bit pricey.

Does anybody have any experience with the edge cts monitor. I have been looking into gauges for my 06' superduty. I dont want any tuning or horsepower gains just engine monitoring. I liked the cts so far because you can add your own sensors(I was thinking fuel pressure at each head, to avoid any injector damage), and you can get it with out any tunes for what a good set of gauges would cost. Have been looking into monitoring because I dont trust the gauges in the instrument cluster, not to mention they give very very limited info. Although I dont run any power adders I do use my diesel pick-up for what it is meant to be. . . pulling heavy trailers. Thanks for the input guys.

Glue a quarter to the floor in an area you can see and watch the hilarity ensue. I guarantee that almost every person that walks by it will try to pick it up.

There I go not reading all the way through the manual again. Thanks for the directions jim, alway helpful. I tried to get her to drive the four wheeler up the ramps into the pick-up and haul it. I did not consider however that a 1 ton from 1996 is a ways off the ground and there for making a bit of a steep incline. Needless to say she did not want to try, I have no problem driving it up there but than again I am a bit more adventurous with stuff like that. So what your saying is I should leave the bumper cover over the hitch. . .

Well thanks for the advice guys. What is the preferred method of trimming the bumper. . . . I have another question for you guys. The compass in the dash above the radio does not appear to tell the right direction. Is there a calibration you can perform or just a rather expensive module to replace in order to make it operational? It reads SW most of the time and the only time it changes is when you head E at which point it says you are going W. I do not have manuals for this here "mochine" yet. The input is greatly appreciated.

So the wife bought an 08' escape. It has a trailer hitch on it. This may be a truly dumb question but here goes. The painted bumper cover, covers the stupid hitch. Is this a ford deal or a really bad install in the aftermarket? So to remedy this is there a different bracket, a correct hitch, or are you supposed to hack into the freaking bumper. . . . . thanks guys. The reason I ask is we have a little golf car trailer that she uses from time to time to haul her four wheeler. Would be nice for her to be able to use it instead of taking my superduty.

They (Low pressure fuel pumps)most definitely are a high failure rate item. I have a buddy with an 04' that has 65,000 miles and has put two lift pumps in it. He has gone with a FASS pump from our local pump shop and has been working great since.

Have you checked fuel pressure and volume? The procedure is to cycle the key several times to bleed the system. If it starts and runs fine the system should be bled out. It sounds as though it is not getting enough fuel under acceleration.

The theory I was told is because a v8 is more "driveable" when not towing. The power is in a higher powerband and more comparable to a gas engine that people were familiar with. I am a firm believer that an inline 6 is a better puller, the reason most heavy duty engines are inline 6. Now as far as a cummins in a ford would be an awesom truck is a matter of opinion. . . . . . a Ford with a caterpillar now we are talking awesome trucks. Since we dont build on-highway engines anymore, I guess that will never happen unless. . . . . . I am in the process of doing just that(Cat into a ford). I finally have a good chassis to start with and will be starting this endeavour in a couple months when I get the b farmall I am working on done and the winter storage junk out of my shop.

Ford replacement part about 15,000 miles ago. Had never thought would cause that type of issue. Good to know and keep in the back of a guys mind for future refference.

I completely agree with you Jim. I am on the fire department in my home town. We just completed are recertification for auto extrication, which we unfortunately average using about once a month. Without seat belts, air bags, and all the safety items in cars I can only imagine the horrific things we as fire and rescue would find on a much more frequent basis. My stomach can handle seeing mangled people but you dont quickly lose the image in your head from such an experience. If you are not a seat belt user I strongly urge you to change your practices. The vehicles get heavier and faster and people increasingly more distracted while piloting these things down the road at you and your family. . . . . something to consider. I for one am glad to get 1 or 2 mpg less by hauling around the safety "junk" and emissions "crap" knowing that my wife and friends are safer for it.

Thanks Bruce that is awesom tips. My plan was to pull the wheels and inspect everything myself after a little test drive to get a feel myself for what it is doing. Than I am going to bleed it myself and see if it still persists. I have a system that works pretty well for me and only takes one person. But will definitely take that line off and bleed there too. I was reading the workshop manual last night on the braking system to refresh me on what all is in the system and recomended bleeding and diagnostic procedures. Just wanted some input from you guys that have a few more of these through you doors. I dont typically get brake issues like this with these years of trucks. Thanks for the help guys, will let you know what I find when he brings it to me.

Actually I have only put 3,500 miles on the new tires now and the handling is back pretty much to normal the way it was with the old tires. The wandering wobbliness is gone. I do need to order a new steering stabilizer and put on it though

Have a customer bringing me a truck some time this week he is tired of fighting with he said. The truck in question is a 94' F-250 4x4 with a 7.3 dit and a 5 spd. The pedal is ok but a little spongey, when you push it hard(panic stop or quick stop) than it goes to the "floor". If you apply the pedal gently it will stop as normal. He has cleaned, inspected, and adjusted the rear brakes and inspected the calipers and pads, all ok he says. When he first talked to me about it I told him it sounds as though there is a leak somewhere or the system has air in it. He told me he cant find a leak anywhere and has bled the system twice. He put a new master cylinder and booster on. If you unplug the vacuum line from the booster the pedal will feel normal and you can stand on it it wont go budge. As soon as you plug in the booster the pedal feels like crap. I of course am going to start with the basics myself but wondering if anybody has ever had a proportioning valve give trouble like this? I dont believe this vehicle has RABS, but not sure I have not looked at it myself yet. Your thoughts are appreciated sirs

My service truck is an 05' 550 with a service body with crane and miller generator, very top heavy. We just put new tires on and had the alignment done. We run a very aggressive tire on our trucks because of where we have to drive to work on our customers equipment. The old tires it felt fairly stable. However with the new ones(deep tread depth)you barely touch the wheel and she is heading for the ditch. May have to do with the tires even though they are new. . . . . I asked the tech that used to run this truck and he said the first 5000-10,000 miles it is like that but gets better as the tires break in a bit.