mchan68

IAT #2 sensor carboned up, delaying actual input to PCM perhaps?

Bad things just don't stop happening to me this year. I was preparing my blower for this winter, and the engine decided to grenade on me. I just bought it new in 2006 so, I'm not ready to scrap it if I don't have to. The model is a 38182 blower. The engine in it is a Tecumseh HSK 635 1723c 98cc two stroker. Apparently Tecumseh has gone out of business, so if any of you know of someone who just happens to have that particular model of engine for sale, or know of where I can obtain a short block I would greatly appreciate it. I checked online and it appears the engine model number HSK 600 looks very similar and would likely fit. Thanks in advance.

Maybe one of you guys can help me out with this one. Vehicle is our Coffee truck. It's an early '03 6.0L (with the 90 degree offset injector clip) with almost 300,000 kms. (about 186,000 miles). The complaint is it begins to run rough when down to 1/4 tank of fuel. Also hard/no-start when first started up in the morning. I replaced a #8 injector (for a dead miss on #8 hole) and a new HFCM (due to noisy and erratic operation) last week. Yesterday morning, he came in on the hook unable to fire it up. When I attempted to start it in my bay, it sounded like a 6.0L that was about to hydrolock as I cranked it over. After two attempts, the vehicle fired right up. Here's the data when he rolled in, before I was able to start it: -FICM_L 12.6 volts (down to 10.2 volts while cranking) -FICM_M 48.5 volts (down to 48.0 volts while cranking) -FICM_V 12.6 volts (down to 10.0 volts while cranking) -FICM_SYNC (switches to YES almost instantly while cranking) -SYNC (switches to YES almost instantly while cranking) -ICP volts 0.23 volts (up to 1.15 volts while cranking) -IPR duty cycle 14.84% (up to 55% while cranking) -RPM (between 185 to 210 while cranking) -Injector Buzz test passes with all eight injectors clicking nice and loud (also precycles loud during initial key-on) -Fuel overflows instantly from secondary filter housing with cap removed as soon as you "blip" the starter Once the vehicle is fired up, he drives all day without further issue. Only complaint is "it just doesn't have the power that it used to". Vehicle has had a fuel tank recondition (aft-axle tank) about 6 months ago. It gets plugged in EVERY night 365 days a year. Goes through approximately two or three tanks of fuel per week. Oil and filters are changed like clockwork. The only test that fails is the EGR valve is a little slow on the close command of the air management test, but that wouldn't cause a hard/no-start would it? I should point out that it does NOT misfire when he does manage to start it cold (which would rule out stiction). Relative compression shows green bars across the board with all eight at 0%. Power balance is nice and flat (after injector #8 replacement), even with FICM compensation disabled. The only codes retrieved in memory are a cylinder #4 and #5 contribution low and the usual P2614 an P2617 in memory. He says to get it to fire up in the morning he "pushes the gas pedal to the floor" to get it to stay running. If glow plugs (or its circuitry) were an issue, it would flag the P06** codes, would it not? I don't want to throw parts at this. Anybody have any ideas where else to go with this?

.... and it looks like the dufus just signed up on FTE to stir up a shit storm!!! Read on gents: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1007480-bill-hewitt-is-a-snake-oil-salesman.html http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/778128-powerstrokehelp-com.html Those of you who don't have the time or patience to read through all of both threads, skip onto post #19 of the snake oil salesman thread, and post #51 of the powerstrokehelp.com thread. Enjoy.

You're kidding, right?

Here's an interesting thread on iATN. It appears this shop has an overfueling cylinder #8 on a 6.0L. By what the poster describes, it doesn't sound like anything I have ever personally come across before. Here's the thread: http://members.iatn.net/techmail/view/in...mp;t=ford_drive That's not the most interesting part of the thread though. Read the advice given by poster #8 and #9. Here it is:

High priced toys cost high priced dollars. What can I say? When you wanna play, you gotta PAY!!! There's a market for idiots. And I charge for stupidity. Kinda reminds me of a Mustang V6 auto that came flat-bedded into my bay years ago. I opened up the rear diff only to find what looked to be metal mush. Shortly after, the teenager owner came strolling in, bragging about the casualty being the result of a full WOT neutral drop at a red light. I guess it didn't take much for that 7.5" to grenade. About $4000 later he was back on the road. And what kills me was who actually paid the bill!!! It must be nice to have a daddy with more $$$ than brains ......

I still remember the one customer that brought his vehicle into our dealer to have his problem diagnosed on MY dime in this thread: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubb...11479#Post11479 Ever since then, anyone rolling into the shop requiring a "diagnosis" gets a scan test for 1.0 hr. If I have to touch ONE fastener for further diag, extra labour gets charged.

Looking at that photo, I can actually just picture a great big orange mustache on the fellow in his future, along with a big scooner in his hand, shooting the shit with ole Jimbo. Congrats Jim!!!!

If I recall correctly, the torque spec of the T-45 hold-downs are 26 ft-lbs. instead of 24 ft-lbs. for the T-40 hold-downs.

But aren't most of the 6.0L trucks out of warranty by now? To me, I don't give a rat's ass anymore, because 9 out of 10 of them showing up my doorstep have been RETAIL. So all I can say is CHA-CHINGG$$$$!!!!!!!!

I don't usually find too many threads in the Monkey House worth mentioning here, but I have to admit this is one real funky looking setup, if I ever saw one: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1012861-diy-remote-oil-cooler-and-filter-complete-with-pics.html It appears this ambitious 6.0L owner converted his factory oil-to-coolant setup into a homemade oil-to-air setup. If the ECT/EOT temps are what he claims in post #5 of this thread, that can't be a bad thing.

The warranty start date of this vehicle is October 20th/2005. I entered in various base part numbers to check for warranty coverage with mileage as low as less than 36000 miles, informing me that there's no coverage found. That said, I think it's safe to say that warranty has expired for this vehicle.

Okay, the guy came back with a PCM he bought from a boneyard. Plugged it in. NO GO. I was able to determine very quickly the PCM he supplied me with is for a 6.8L V10 gasser!!! This I was able to verify quickly be entering in the PCM tag ID# of 6C3A-12A650-CYB. Now, here's the kicker. The PCM he has in his vehicle presently (that now won't supply the ground side circuit to the starter relay when the key is cranked to the START position since the FICM replacement) has a tag ID# of 6C3A-12A650-BZB which tells me that the PCM is in fact originally from a 2006 model year. The question I have is WHY and HOW replacing the FICM would've ended up loading a 2004 model year calibration into it? This time, I "borrowed" a PCM off a 2006 F-550 4x4 that we have on our lot. Sure enough, swapping it in, immediately enables the truck to start with the key. I guess the search continues for another 2006 model year 6.0L F-250/F-350 PCM. Something else that bothers me is why I can't just simply load up As-Built data from any 2006 model year PCM into the existing PCM he has in it right now.

I'm glad I'm not the only one that loves the 6.4L. These engines definitely rank high up on the list of most horrible engines to work on, close to the 6.0L in E-Series. Keith or anyone, is there any way one of you fine gents can upload a youtube video of what a 6.0L or 6.4L sounds like, when the camshaft goes South on one of these? It seems like I've been doing more reading than actually having one end up on my doorstep. The more I read up on the seemingly high failure rate, the more I get scared of seeing one.

The million dollar question is, WHERE WILL THE MISSING PIECES END UP?

Thanks Chris for the helpful information. However, it has only set P0022 by itself in memory, since the repair. Just to recap, I replaced BOTH phasers and VCT solenoid/valve body assemblies on BOTH banks, as well as a bank #2 chain guide. The owner of the truck has already stated that the vehicle runs much better than it did, before he brought it into us. The vehicle isn't here at the moment. I just started this thread, just in case the code does return once again, and returns so that I have something I can look deeper into. Between yours and Jim's information, I now have something more to go on and appreciate your feedback. The only thing that bothers me a little, is that the engine doesn't quite run as quietly as I'd like. Again, I state very clearly, when the truck last returned, I found both VCT advance/retard PIDs increase/decrease at the same rate and power balance is a nice flat line, which right off the bat tells me there is no issue with base engine or valve timing. If it were off, it wouldn't have left my bay without setting VCT codes and CMP codes right away along with throwing the MIL light on, would it not?

But you can thank the W.S.M. and the PC/ED for this method that is used by almost every Ford tech. You don't think there aren't times when I don't have a brainfart, about the proper way to test for VOLTAGE requiring the circuit in question to be functioning? Yes Jim, I'm sure I and many other techs probably think this way when diagnosing anything that involves testing an electrical circuit. But the reality is, the W.S.M. and the PC/ED always instructs us to KEY/ON, disconnect C123, check for VOLTAGE between pins #2 and #43. Is VOLTAGE greater than 10 volts? Reading between the lines, that tells me the test is 'asking' me if I have battery voltage on that circuit. Is this the PROPER way to test it? NO, we all know that it isn't. Similarly when 'asked' if RESISTANCE is greater than 10,000 ohms, that to me means the circuit should NOT have continuity, and vice versa when 'asked' if RESISTANCE is less than 5 ohms. What I find interesting is that there is never a test in which we are instructed to check for current flow, or AMPERAGE. Why is that? Is it because the writers of the PC/ED and W.S.M. think that most techs are idiots, who don't know how to connect a DVOM properly to check for AMPERAGE without blowing the DVOM? I think it all boils down to having a 'paper trail' behind us when the end result is a component being replaced without actually fixing the concern. How many of us have run into that type of situation before? At least by following the W.S.M. or PC/ED test steps and documenting as such, is our way of ensuring WE aren't the ones to be held accountable to an unsuccessful repair. Does that make it right? I don't think so, but where else are we to turn to when a vehicle comes in with an electrical concern requiring some 'testing'? More importantly, does the service pub test procedure get updated accordingly when an unsuccessful repair results from following that particular test step? I think at the very least, following the test steps as outlined in the service pubs and being unsuccessful at the repair is a far better scenario than taking the "shotgun" approach, be it on the customers' or Ford's dime.

It's so refreshing to see a post like this. I guess, this post also illustrates perfectly why I absolutely LOVE working on any vehicle that makes its way onto my doorstep from the good old U.S. of A. Whenever I get one coming in for whatever repair, my poductivity increases almost tenfold. And the best part of all, the customers are usually very generous in the tipping department. Is this a U.S. custom that I'm unaware of? By the way, do you guys in the South have torches in your shop? If so, how often do they get used?

It's nice to know I'm not the only one who likes to put mileage on a vehicle after a major repair such as head studs. I still get very nervous about any vehicle that I've had apart extensively.

I have one here, that got passed down to me from our tune-down department. This truck was previously serviced at an independent garage. Finally ended up on our doorstep becuase the owner got "tired of it running like a bag of shit". Vehicle was previously serviced with Fram oil filters and 5W30. Finally, after I replaced both phasers and VCT solenoid valve body assemblies (along with a broken bank #2 timing chain guide that someone tried to jury rig to the head with a bolt and some washers), life was good. The vehicle came back about a week later with P0022 in memory. Monitored both advance/retard PIDs at idle and under various conditions. Both banks increase and decrease at the same rate. Even the owner admits it runs much better than it had, after the repair. After clearing the code and changing the oil again with 5W20 and the proper FL-820S oil filter I sent him on his merry way and advised him to change the oil frequently until all the residual crap works its way out. Is there anything else I should be looking for? Again it's P0022 by itself, no CMP sensor codes and power balance is a flat line, and relative compression shows 0% green bars across the board. The only thing I do notice is the engine does sound a little noisier than I'd like it to be, but night and day better than it was before (clacking at idle like a diesel).

Okay, if I read correctly, put in more simplistic terms, it's not much different from having a diesel filled with gasoline. I guess the only difference being that fuel is injected into the cylinder head on the INTAKE stroke instead the POWER stroke if I read correctly.