mchan68

Does anyone know of ANY place where oil filters can be ordered for this car (part number EFL-484). I have this regular customer that brings it in to me for regular service, but has run out of supply for oil filters. If anyone knows of any website, telephone number etc. that you can leave me, preferably somewhere closest to Toronto Canada, if possible. Thanks in advance.

Yes, Alex, I've done that TSB a couple of times with the three rubber pieces. I just have a hard time imagining how it eliminates a repeat water intrusion concern. Thanks Keith, I'll keep that in mind.

Is anyone aware of any aftermarket moisture shield that exists? I've had two customers recently complaining of having to replace TWO IDMs due to the dreaded moisture intrusion problem. The latest one, the owner try to rig up his own piece of cardboard over top. Kind of reminds me of the days people used to wrap bags over distributor caps.

How did you determine that the head gaskets need to be replaced? I've heard from NUMEROUS "reliable" sources that head gaskets are the number one most misdiagnosed problems on a 6.0L. If you have an overheating issue, either the EGR/oil cooler is puked and/or you have a cracked head(s) or cups failed. This is just what I've heard. Are you sure this isn't the case? Heads are NOT fun to remove on these things, so I wouldn't want to hear of you having to do the same job twice. Are you doing it with the body off? That's the ONLY way I would do it. I'm assuming this is an '04 model year since they seem to be the ones that have had the most issues with cooling system concerns. After doing TWO engines in a row this past two weeks, my back is still recovering. I feel for you!!!

This article supersedes TSB 04-25-18 to add a vehicle line and update the vehicle build date information. ISSUE: Some 2005 F-Super Duty and E-Series vehicles built prior to 4/15/2005 and Excursions built 1/10/2005 through 4/15/2005, all vehicles equipped with 6.0L engine, may exhibit a crank no start with low injection control pressure (ICP), hard start/long crank with slow to build ICP, or a rough idle with high ICP. ACTION: This condition may be due to the injection pressure regulator (IPR) and the high pressure oil pump (HPP). Refer to the following Service Procedure. SERVICE PROCEDURE Remove the IPR valve and inspect for deformation of the screen (screen sucked into valve), a hole in the IPR screen, or metal debris covering over half of the IPR screen. If any of these conditions are present, change the engine oil and oil filter, then replace the HPP and IPR valve. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-04C to replace the HPP or the IPR. If none of these conditions are present, continue with normal diagnostics. Start and run engine to confirm repair. If rough idle is still present, debris may have contaminated a fuel injector(s). Run normal injector diagnostics to identify specific injector(s) before replacement. PART NUMBER PART NAME 5C3Z-9C968-CA (CM-5126) IPR 5C4Z-9A543-AA High Pressure Oil Pump WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 051203A 2005 F-Super Duty/Excursion: Remove The Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) Inspect No Damage Found Reinstall (IPR) (Do Not Use With 9438A, 9438A3, 9424A, 9968B, 9543A) 1.2 Hrs. 051203A 2005 E-Series: Remove The Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) Inspect No Damage Found Reinstall (IPR) (Do Not Use With 9438A, 9438A3, 9424A, 9968B, 9543A) 1.1 Hrs. 051203B 2005 F-Super Duty/Excursion: Remove The Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) Inspect And Replace The High Pressure Pump (HPP) And The (IPR) (Do Not Use With 9438A, 9438A3, 9424A, 9968B, 9543A) 5.8 Hrs. 051203B 2005 E-Series: Remove The Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) Inspect And Replace The High Pressure Pump (HPP) And The (IPR) (Do Not Use With 9438A, 9438A3, 9424A, 9968B, 9543A) 7.5 Hrs. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 9C968 X1 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright © 2005 Ford Motor Company Printable View (54 KB) TSB 06-17-6 HIGH PRESSURE SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS - 6.0L Publication Date: August 25, 2006 FORD: 2005 Excursion 2005-2006 E-Series 2005-2007 F-Super Duty This article supersedes TSB 06-14-6 to update the service procedure. ISSUE: Some 2005-2007 F-Super Duty, 2005-2006 E-Series and 2005 Excursion vehicles equipped with a 6.0L diesel engine may exhibit a hard start / long crank or no start condition due to low injection control pressure (ICP). ACTION: Use the Service Procedure to identify a fault with the high or low pressure oil system. SERVICE PROCEDURE A minimum of 3.5 MPa (500 psi or 0.8 volts) ICP is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the system, leakage at the injector upper D-rings, high pressure pump quick connect fitting, high pressure pump discharge tube, faulty injection pressure regulator (IPR), or high pressure pump could cause low ICP pressure. Perform the revised Powertrain Controls / Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) lead diagnostics Section 4, Hard Start/No Start Diagnostic Procedure Tests 10e and 10f. These tests were revised in January 2006. NOTE: THE LOW PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM MUST BE WORKING PROPERLY IN ORDER FOR THE HIGH PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM TO BUILD ICP PRESSURE. THIS INCLUDES ADEQUATE PRESSURE AND GOOD QUALITY PROPERLY MAINTAINED OIL. NOTE: THIS TSB ONLY APPLIES TO REPLACEMENT OF THE HIGH PRESSURE BRANCH TUBE OR SNAP TO CONNECT FITTING IF FOUND DEFECTIVE WHILE PERFORMING PC/ED HARD START / NO START TESTS 10e AND 10f. If the leak is isolated to the high pressure pump Snap to Connect (STC) quick connect fitting, replace the male and female fittings and install a STC bracket. All the necessary components are included in the STC kit. Follow the installation instructions included in the kit. Torque the female quick connect fitting to 38 lb-ft (51 N-m) max. NOTE: DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE FEMALE QUICK CONNECT FITTING OR DAMAGE WILL OCCUR. NOTE: IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE HIGH PRESSURE PUMP WHEN REPLACING THE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS. If a leak is identified in the branch tube, use the following procedure to replace the branch tube if the vehicle your working on is a F-Super Duty or Excursion. For E-Series, the engine needs to be removed to replace the branch tube. When replacing the branch tube, also install the STC bracket kit. BRANCH TUBE REPLACEMENT FOR F-SUPER DUTY AND EXCURSION VEHICLES ONLY Remove the transmission (See the appropriate model year Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-01. NOTE: LEAVE THE FLYWHEEL ON, IT WILL MAKE IT EASIER TO TURN THE ENGINE OVER TO TDC) THE TRANSMISSION FLUID DOES NOT NEED TO BE DRAINED. Set engine at TDC both cylinder number 1 rocker arms should be loose (See rocker arm removal procedure in the appropriate online WSM, Section 303-01C). Remove the right and left side high-pressure oil rails. Remove and inspect both high-pressure standpipes for O-ring wear Remove fuel injectors from cylinders 6, 7 and 8 (see WSM, Section 303-04C, use Ford Special Service Tool Number 303-1115) Plug oil drain holes in cylinder head prior to removing the rocker arms. Remove intake and exhaust rocker arms from cylinders number 7 and number 8 then remove the push rods (See WSM, Section 303-01C, use Ford special service tool number 303-1170. The rocker arm plastic retaining clips may break upon removal. Make sure all the pieces are removed from the head.) Rotate engine 1 full revolution (See WSM, Section 303-01C rocker arm removal procedure. Remove exhaust rocker arm from cylinder number 6 and push rod (leave tool in place). Remove the rear cover following WSM, Section 303-01C. Cut the sealant at the rear cover "T" joints for the bedplate gaskets and high-pressure pump cover gasket before fully removing. NOTE: USE A LONG PUTTY KNIFE OR RAZOR BLADE TO SEPARATE THE BED PLATE GASKETS TO PREVENT DAMAGE. DO NOT STRETCH THE BEDPLATE GASKETS OR THE BEDPLATE WILL HAVE TO BE REMOVED. Loosen the two (2) 8 mm bolts that hold the discharge tube to the branch tube. (Use open end / box end wrench thin) Insert a 10" long 1/4 locking extension with a T27 locking Torx bit through cylinder number 6 exhaust push rod hole. Use a magnet through the standpipe hole in the head to remove the bolt (the extension will be on a slight angle, have someone under the vehicle watch from the rear cover area to guide the socket on the bolt head of the branch tube hold down). CAUTION: IF THE TORX BIT IS DROPPED IT WILL BE NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE CYLINDER HEAD TO RETRIEVE IT. Insert a 10" long 1/4" locking extension with a T27 locking Torx bit through cylinder number 7 exhaust push rod hole and loosen the hold down bolt. Use a magnet through the standpipe hole to remove bolt. (The extension will be on a slight angle, have someone under the vehicle watch from the rear cover area to guide the socket on the bolt head of the branch tube hold down). NOTE: THE BOLT HEAD IS NOT VISIBLE ON THIS SIDE. CAUTION: IF THE TORX BIT IS DROPPED IT WILL BE NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE CYLINDER HEAD TO RETRIEVE IT. Remove the branch tube from the engine (Replace high-pressure branch tube). Remove the high-pressure pump discharge tube from the high-pressure outlet fitting, use Ford Special Service Tool Number 303-755 to disconnect it. (Replace high-pressure pump discharge tube). Remove the outlet fitting from the high-pressure pump (Replace high-pressure pump outlet fitting). INSTALLATION Pack the branch tube bolt holes with grease and install retaining bolts in the branch tube flush with the bottom. If the high pressure (H/P) pump was removed for diagnostics it needs to be installed at this point. Torque the mounting bolts to 26 lb-ft (35 N-m). Install a new high-pressure pump outlet fitting from the STC Bracket Kit and torque to 38 lb-ft (51 N-m). Install the two (2) 8 mm bolts into the discharge tube. Snap the new high-pressure discharge tube into the high-pressure outlet fitting. Verify that the fitting is snapped in securely. Install a new high-pressure branch tube into the block. Start the two (2) 8 mm bolts from the discharge tube into the branch tube. Have someone under vehicle guide and start the hold down bolts through cylinder 7 and cylinder 6 push rod holes. While tightening the branch tube hold down bolts maintain positive outward pressure on the branch tube. Torque the retaining bolts to 10 lb-ft (14 N-m). Tighten the two (2) 8 mm discharge tube bolts. Torque to 11 lb-ft (15 N-m). Clean the rear engine cover. Install a new gasket. Add Motorcraft Ultra Silicone Sealant to the bedplate and the H/P pump covers joints. Install the rear engine cover. Torque to 18 ft-lb (24 N-m). Install a new rear main seal using Ford Special Service Tool Number 303-770 Install rear main seal dust cover Install the flywheel. NEW FLYWHEEL BOLTS REQUIRED. Install the starter. Install push rod and rocker arm in cylinder number 6. Rotate engine 1 full revolution Install push rods and rocker arms in cylinders number 7 and number 8 Install stand pipes. (Replace if damaged) Install fuel injectors. Install high-pressure oil rails. (WSM, Section 303-04C) Install the valve covers. Install the fuel injector control model (FICM). Install the air filter housing. Install coolant overflow tank. Install right side charge air cooler (CAC) tube. (Hot Side) Install the transmission. Change engine oil and filter. Check all fluid levels. PART NUMBER PART NAME 4C3Z-9B246-A STC Bracket Kit 5C3Z-9J332-B Branch Tube 3C3Z-6379-BA Flywheel Bolt (Auto Trans - 10 per repair 3C3Z-6379-CA Flywheel Bolt (Manual - 10 per repair) TA-29 Motorcraft Ultra Silicone Sealant WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 061706A 2005-2007 Super Duty, 2005 Excursion 6.0L 4X2/4X4 All Transmissions: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Install STC Bracket And/Or Replace The Snap To Connect (STC) Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 8.0 Hrs. 061706B 2005-2006 Econoline 6.0L: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Install STC Bracket, And/Or Replace The Snap To Connect (STC) Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 10.6 Hrs. 061706C 2005-2007 Super Duty 6.0L 4X2 Manual Transmission: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Replace The Branch Tube, Install STC Bracket And/Or Replace The Snap To Connect (STC) Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 14.4 Hrs. 061706D 2005-2007 Super Duty 6.0L 4X4 Manual Transmission: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Replace The Branch Tube, Install STC Bracket And/Or Replace The Snap To Connect (STC) Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 15.9 Hrs. 061706E 2005-2007 Super Duty, 2005 Excursion 6.0L 4X2 Automatic Transmission: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Replace The Branch Tube, Install STC Bracket And/Or Replace The Snap To Connect (STC) Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 15.4 Hrs. 061706F 2005-2007 Super Duty, 2005 Excursion 6.0L 4X4 Automatic Transmission: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Replace The Branch Tube Install STC Bracket And/Or Replace The Snap To Connect (STC) Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 16.4 Hrs. 061706G 2005-2006 Econoline 6.0L: Perform PC/ED Lead Diagnosis, Remove Engine To Replace The Branch Tube, Install STC Bracket And/Or Replace The Snap To Connect (STC) Fittings, Road Test To Verify Repair: (This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations) 23.8 Hrs. DEALER CODING BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 9B246 42 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright © 2006 Ford Motor Company Well guys, BOTH these TSBs apply this particular vehicle. The IPR valve screen was lodged inside the HPP AND the STC fitting was blown off damaging the branch tube and rear cover. The question is WHICH TSB do I claim? Notice how it says "This Labor Operation Is All Inclusive And May Not Be Claimed With Other Labor Operations" at the bottom of 061706G for 23.8 HRS.

We have the cherrypicker this time. Just not the proper 303-D048 liftbracket. This engine looks impossible to remove with chains secured to the top of the engine. Being a cubevan, prevents lifting the cab off the frame for access.

I have heard that engine removal on these trucks requires removing the pan & turbo FIRST, before the it can be physically removed from the vehicle. After ripping everything apart, I can definitely see why!!! Do I have to remove the valve covers and engine mounts as well FIRST? They look like they are in the way as well. I still can't believe I was able to strip this sucker down in the short time that I did!!! I know that I have to "exacto knife" the bedplate seals first before I pull the rear cover off. Is there anything else I should beware of, in tackling this job? Should I have the advisor add a second line on the RO for something else, just to recover whatever lost time I can salvage? I'm interested in "fixing" this truck, that's why I'm going through this bullshit. I don't want to see this truck back. I could've just slam dunked an IPR and HPP, and punted the truck, but the two holes for the branch tube connection don't even come close, with the new HPP STC installed, when looking straight down. I may even have to replace the rear engine cover, if it's broken once I have the engine out for further inspection. This is one UGLY looking job!!!

Well Guys, I have one that came in on the hook as a no-start. ICP pressure of 85 PSI cranking P2291 CMDTC. Pushed the truck into the wash bay and started ripping apart only to find the IPR screen sucked into the HPP. As soon as I pulled the HPP cover off, I found the STC fitting COMPLETELY dislodged from the HPP. The branch tube looks like it's resting completely against the rear cover. I understand TSB 06-17-6 pays 23.6 on the E-series ALL INCLUSIVE. But that TSB says to replace the STC fitting and the branch tube ONLY. What about the HPP and the IPR? Is there ANY way I can claim something else as well? I already have everything ripped apart on this truck including the oil pan, only waiting for the lift adapter to arrive Monday morning for our cherrypicker. Any advice you guys can offer? This is the first one I've had to do. Thanks in advance.

What is the hourly labour rate at this shop?

There is a rumour floating around that the 6.4L will be cancelled for 2009. This may sound stupid, but I've heard that NISSAN may be Ford's next diesel engine supplier. Has anyone heard of a similar rumour?

Just reading through the posts on inford, and I came across an interesting post, where one tech somewhere out in Western Canada has posted a "certain warranty auditor" has "recommended" that we unplug EGR valves to cut down on warranty claim costs. IS THIS FOR REAL???? Call me stupid if you will, but I fail to see the logic behind this.

I just did the course two days ago, and I had a hard time navigating through the course. On almost every new section, I had to refresh the page a couple of times before the audio would load up. When I got to the Cab-Off service procedure, the complete section wouldn't load up after SEVERAL attempts. Anybody else have this problem?

Those of you who have the TECH TO TECH access at flatratetech.com will see that someone has posted ALL the 35 answers to the questions on this course. Wow, I wonder how many guys are going to just weasel there way through the mastery exam now?

Jim, you must come from the ages of when osciliscopes, tach/dwell meters, and timing lights were used daily. Probably, you had already been in this business a few years when engine overhauls on Cadillac 4.1L HT4100 was part of the "regular maintenance schedule". Sadly, I got into this business thirteen years ago, when I thought ALL Ford products were the greatest thing since sliced bread. Now, I STILL love my Ford products, but I can't help wishing it would pay a little better for some (NOT all) of the warranty jobs. I haven't quite reached to the extreme that some of the guys at FRT obviously have. I even work in a union shop. And I can tell you it's no better than working at a NON-union, at least not in my opinion. Anyhow, I think I strayed off topic a little too far, so I'll throw in my two cents worth on the 6.4L. Yes I did the web course last night (it only just came out on Friday as you already know). That is one trick system there. But funny enough, with all this hype going on with these new F-series trucks, it makes me wonder what's going to happen to the E-series? There is NO WAY they are going to shoehorn TWO EGR coolers, or an exhaust system with a DOC and DPF. How many of those sensorsdo you think are going to fail regularly? Never mind all those coolers!!!!

That kind of reminds me of a time when two ex-coworkers were doing a compression test on a 7.3L in an E-series with the doghouse cover off. I was working on something else in the bay across. All I remember hearing was the sound of the engine cranking, and then BOOOM!!!! As the two coworkers exited the truck all I saw was "leopard spots all over the two of them, and the inside of the truck!!!! It was priceless!!!!

I have an '04 F-250 that came in for a complaint of a coolant leak last Saturday. According to the customer, he had to put 8 liters (or 2 gallons for you Americans) of coolant to top up. I pressure tested it. About 15 minutes later, it didn't drop 1 PSI. I checked up top where the orange EGR cooler hose is, and could see some dry residue there. He says it's coming from the right rear corner of the engine. He's coming back today for me to put a pressure tester on it for a couple hours to see if I can pinpoint it better. What do you think guys? Head gasket, or EGR cooler? I've never pulled heads off a 6.0L yet, and don't really want to. Doesn't look like a fun job!!! Then again, neither is an EGR cooler, but I'd rather do that than pull heads.

DO you have a VDR? Take some "snapshots" of all the PIDS when this occurs. Is this an early or late build '04? I had one a while back for an intermittent bucking and surging with black smoke a while back. We don't have the luxury of a VDR in our shop, but I did notice the EGR cycling widly when this happened. This complaint was after the 06E17 reflash. After several "consultations" with hotline, I replaced both the MAF (with IAT1) and IAT2. That seemed to fix it. Does it stall? I have also had a few E-series in for a complaint of intermittent stalling that I couldn't figure out until one time, while monitoring PIDS, I tapped on the ICP sensor, which caused the engine to almost quit, while the ICP PID reading defaulted to 870 PSI momentarily, before it went back to the normal readings. Replacing the sensor and pigtail fixed the problem. Hope this helps. Let me know what happens.

Thanks. I finished the job yesterday. And that is exactly the way I did it. The truck is running happy now. Thanks again guys.

Thanks Dustin & Keith. I did the smoke machine thing and found the leak right away!!! It was the y-pipe inlet to turbo cracked. Now my next question is, do I need to remove the downpipe for clearance? It appears I need to remove the transmission crossmember to remove the pipe, unlike in an E-series where it just falls off once you remove the two 15mm nuts on the flange. I want to avoid putting the truck up and down several times. I already got the turbo off again within the first hour this morning. Thanks again guys.

Don't laugh at this one. But, about 7 years ago, during my preliminary years of exposure to engine repairs on Ford products, or any major repairs in general for that matter, I was assigned to replacing the right bank head gasket on a 5.4L E-series, when it came time to fire up the engine, it ran horribly!!! I pulled out all the plugs on that bank. Cylinder #4 spark plug electrode was gone completely. Mad as hell, I pulled the head off again, only to find a rag all chewed up, and lodged between the exhaust valve and seat. Needless to say, I WAS PISSED!!!! Well, I ended up replacing the valve, and thankfully, no other damage was evident afterward. Now, you guys are probably wondering how I could leave a rag in one of the cylinders, and forget about it? Well, when I pulled the head off, all the residual coolant in the head drained itself into the cylinder bores, almost filling them up. I placed one rag into each cylinder to absorb the coolant, with the exception of cylinder number 4, which was situated at BDC. Therefore, I needed TWO rags to soak up the coolant in that one particular cylinder. When it came time to replace the head onto the block, I pulled out ONE rag from each cylinder, forgetting that there were TWO inside cylinder number 4. Use your imagination. Apparently, one of the other techs had to make a mad dash for the washroom, unable to contain his laughter at my misfortune. Ever since that mishap, one of my former co-workers will never let me forget that, when I call him to shoot the !@*!#?!.

Got an early build '04 F-350 crew cab dually with a P132B, P0299 & P2263. Replace turbo, road test and monitor PIDS. VGT_LRN no, VGT_PI no. Check EGR valve, good. Cannot active command EGR open with engine running. Hearing a hissing noise from the rear of engine compartment. Thinking the turbo wasn't seated properly to the y-pipe, I rechecked the connection there, it seemed good. A former co-worker advised that it's not uncommon for the y-pipe (6K854) to crack where it flexes on the left bank side. Is this true? He also advised that replacing the pipe requires unbolting the body from the frame, and rasing a little for clearance. Is this true? How hard is this pipe to access, and replace? I know the turbo is going to have to come back off to start. Not looking for to this. Will this type exhaust leak prevent EGR valve operation? Sorry for so many questions. I'm not a veteran 6.0L tech as most of you have probably figured out. Thanks in advance guys.

An even better idea for F-series and E-series. How about a "tilt-over" style access, the way it is on F-650/F-750 or the GMC HD van? I vaguely remember a rumour that that was originally the intended direction with the E-series, prior to the 6.0's release? What happened to that? Let me guess, could it be something to do with money?

I think it would be an excellent idea. On that, does anyone know of a website to look up Ford parts, the same way parts guy does using microcrap? I know we've all run into a situation at some point where a parts guy is attempting to look up a part for us that we would be much faster and more efficient at doing. There's nothing that pisses me off more than a parts guy giving me attitude, when I'm trying to find a part. Does anyone know how to navigate through a parts guys' system access to the microcat screen, if such access exists through their inford.com (or fmcdealer.com for you Americans)?

I just read the TSB. Thanks for the heads up. That looks like a bullshit procedure, disassembling the wiring on E-series. As if wiring chafing issues aren't bad enough on E-series.

Thanks, I just figured this out after reading the other posts. It was an F-series. Do I still need to "modify" wiring? I only did the reprogram as a "habit". I'm the only Ford Diesel cerified tech in our shop. We don't see too many trucks. But, I've gotten into the habit of checking for PCM updates when they come into the shop for any driveability issues. Thanks again.