mchan68

5C3Z-9D930-A for the harness between the FICM and the injectors. 5C3Z-12B637-AA for the engine harness with buid date from 07/19/04 to 11/04/04 5C3Z-12B637-BA for the engine harness with build date from 11/04/04 to 12/18/06

Well, to get things back on topic, I just finished replacing a head gasket on an '08 Fusion. It was leaking engine oil from the oil feed to bank #1 cylinder head (back side). I straight-edged both the block and the head, and both appeared flat. This is the first time I've seen this type of failure on a Duratec. I'm used to doing this repair on 4.6/5.4 F-series, speaking of which I kind of miss doing them. Anyone who has to drop the subframe on one beware, there is no master spline on the steering rack, meaning that the coupler can be installed in numerous different orientations, putting the steering wheel off-center. Make sure to index mark the before they are disconnected.

They seem to be selling very well where I am. Had a few coming in for tranny fluid leaks the seal at the powertrain transfer unit. Don't know about fuel mileage though. Haven't had one home for the weekend yet.

That reservoir screen is almost ALWAYS broken on every truck that I've had to replace the oil cooler on. I just replace it anyways, whenever I open it up for any reason.

Has anyone else experienced any type of failures on any new model year of this engine lately? I just finished an '08 Escape that didn't make it to its first oil change before being brought in with a complaint of a knocking sound. Bank #2 exhaust cam wore out the bearing caps so bad, that there was at least 1/16th of an inch gap between the cam and the bearing surface. It was the last three caps closest the the water pump drive. It's quite stupid that there's no tensioner on the belt drive for the water like there used to be on Contour/Mystique/Cougar applications. With the way that belt is tight, it kind of makes me think that that's what caused the failure. My next job is for a bank #1 cylinder head gasket leak of engine oil on an '08 Fusion.

I agree OASIS is/can be a very valuable tool and should always be used. I guess the problem with me is that I tend to take it too personally when something goes awry. The fact of the matter is, I didn't intend on causing any inconvenience to this person. It was actually the scrap metal truck. But the way he came back yelling, it was as if I deliberately tried to "ruin his day" as he put it. It's not going to stop me from doing my job though.

Jim ranting on about getting all the guys in his shop to check OASIS on all 7.3L trucks, or anything that comes in the shop, for that matter. But, getting back on topic, I'm just curious if anyone has had issues so far, after carrying out the recall? I ran into one that was running fine until I replaced the sensor. The guy "limped" the truck back to the shop screaming mad that I "fucked up" his truck. This was an '03 E-series cubevan with 359,000 kms. Apparently, it wouldn't accelerate above 50 km/h, almost like it was starving for fuel. I was able to duplicate the symptom, but NO DTCs, and after reinstalling the old sensor, all was well. This was the VERY first time I've come across this, and I've replaced many more than my fair share of CMPs on 7.3s, both retail, and under 07S57. Now, after this experience, I'm not so sure I want to have the advisors add the line on the repair order for 7.3s coming in for oil changes.

The part number is 014-00765

YUP

I've got an '08 Escape waiting for parts that didn't make it to its first oil change without wearing out bank #2 exhaust cam so bad that there's at least 1/8th" of clearance between the cam bearing surfaces and the head. When I drained the oil, only less than 2 litres came out, discoloured and burnt. The excessive wear caused oil to past the seal where the pulley that drives the water pump is situated. Ford denied my request to replace the long block. Instead, they are telling to replace only bank #2 cylinder head. Me thinks the customer is just going to LOVE that. I too, will be dropping the powertrain/subframe as an assembly to carry out the repair.

Sorry for taking so long to reply, Keith. No, there is no Ford part number available as of yet for this kit. After seeing this post about the availability of this part, curiosity got the better of me so I went out to the nearest Navistar store to purchase it. Included in the kit is everything that I've laid out in the photo post. I was going to post it, but I don't know how to add photos in posts. I'm not computer literate LOL. Speaking of Navistar, I priced out some parts from them for a retail job just for comparison purposes, and noticed the prices are actually more expensive than they are from Ford. Anyone else noticed that too?

Entered the trade in and around 1995. Began and completed my apprenticeship at a Chrysler store from 1996 to 1999. Began working at my first Ford store in January 2000 as a licensed tech, at a Ford TRUCK dealer until they closed down due to Ford selling their heavy truck franchise to Freightliner. Been working on Ford CARS ever since. Just started wrenching on Diesels as a Ford certified tech in May of 2005, hoooooray for me.

Thank you Jim, for your brief, and yet very intelligent answer. My next question is, what can WE do to prevent this from happening, above and beyond just fixing our existing customers' trucks right, to the best of our abilities?

Kind of reminds me of the time my SM's "buddy's" '05 E-350 got wrote up for a "cranks no-start" low ICP concern. Remember my thread a while back about the hard time I was having, air leak testing? Well, when I checked OASIS, it showed the most recent repair with the 4C3Z-9B246-A STC bracket kit charged out TWICE on the same RO as the most recent repair. When I pulled the high pressure pump cover off, neither the update bracket was there, nor did the STC fitting look like it was replaced less than 10,000 kms. ago. To make matters worse, this truck was 3,000 kms. over the limit for the DIT warranty (163 and change kms.) I got paid internally for the actual time I spent on the truck, but that's besides the point. Apparently that dealer is in deep poo-poo as a result of my findings.

I have had a "few" of those trucks pass through my hands lately. What tends to piss me off are the ones that brag that, ".....well I can do that job in 2 hours..." as in trying to convey the underlying message that I'm better than you. For me, I always thought that most of us are here to HELP each other, not bash each other. And comments like that to be seen and heard by the wrong people are how warranty times get dropped (remember 8592A for 1.0?). I'm not ashamed to admit that some jobs might take me longer to carry out than probably most of the members on this site. BUT, take things into consideration like: 1. I am the ONLY diesel tech in my shop, so I get NO HELP from anyone. ALL jobs I have to pretty much figure out on my own. 2. I see relatively few diesels pass through my hands compared to probably everyone on this site, therefore I get far less wrench time, and less experience than most of you. 3. When I carry out a repair, ALL fasteners get returned to their original locations and orientations (CAC hose clamps, and exhaust clamps for example). My biggest pet peeve are the stripped and rounded off bolts to the power steering recervoirs on 6.0L E-series for example. With all that said, these are details that add time to the repair process despite what Ford SLTS pays poorly, I still take pride in carrying a repair making it look as though nothing was ever touched, except for the new part replaced. There was one '05 truck that passed through my hands where the previous tech at a dealer I won't mention, left a gap about 1/8th of an inch wide between the turbo exhaust inlet and the y-pipe. I ended up having to reposition the y-pipe in order the get it to seat properly onto turbo. Then there's always the one of the three turbo bolts that nobody likes to access, which seems to always be MIA (at least the ones that pass through my hands). Then there's the E-series trucks with the doghouse opening and the underside heat insulation that gets mangled to ratshit from other guys getting too aggresive with the turbo removal process. I could go on and on, but yes unfortunately there are a lot of "meat cutters" out there. Sorry for the rant, just my 2 cents.

LOL Keith, you beat me to it this time, I was just going to suggest the exact same thing.

http://blogs.edmunds.com/Straightline/3659

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to ALL. Thanks for all the help.

They crack at the flex-joint. To repair you have to replace.

Well, the very first one I did a while back, I fought like mad trying to weasel it out of the engine from the top with the turbo removed. On this one, I said to hell with it, and removed the six body bolts, and lifted the cab about four inches off the frame to facilitate access to the fasteners. It went much smoother this way. Am I on the right track?

Turbo exhaust y-pipe inlet at the flex joint. Very common.

Is there any more I should be claiming for replacing the flex-pipe other than 9438A, 9438AZW, 9438A2, and 9438A3 labor op codes for 4.3 hrs.? It just doesn't seem right when to access the driver side exhaust manifold top side nut and bolt is virtually impossible without lifting the cab 3 to 4 inchs off the frame. Unless, you guys have any secrets or shortcuts I'm unaware of.

Just curious, what are you charging for this repair? I had another one of "Joe's Garages" call me requesting a quote on "continuing" a job they started. Apparently, they got as far as removing SOME of the head bolts, and felt they went in over their head. I'm sure you're NOT guaranteeing any possibility of any future subsequent failures? AAAHHH, I smell a painful wedding ring syndrome on this one!!!

I just did one about a month and a half ago, on an E-Series under hotline recommendation and prior approval. Not only was the engine replaced, but so were ALL parts that coolant passes through. Even after all was said and done, I barely broke even on the job!

LOL!!! I have that exact same tool. Do you know how many guys in the shop are borrowing it all the time, along with my ball joint press for Taurus ball joints? Works great doesn't it?