mchan68

LOL!!! I have that exact same tool. Do you know how many guys in the shop are borrowing it all the time, along with my ball joint press for Taurus ball joints? Works great doesn't it?

A 1996 Contour won't be equipped with VCT anyways. VCT was used only on 1998 and 1999 model years.

Those engines were notorious for having the idler pulleys fly apart, causing timing belt failures. The good news is that they are not interference engines, so if the belt let's go, you won't be kissing valves. I would replace BOTH idler pulleys as well as the tensioner when carrying out this repair.

Is it a ONE-PIECE assembly? I'm assuming the Hex part of it rotates freely, in order to install to the existing HPOP. Since there's no more girdle, what's to stop it from coming apart at the hex joint? When did this part become available? Do you have a part number?

If the damage is THAT bad, why not just get authorization for a long block?

Have you tried cleaning out IAT#2?

I just had one in yesterday, that had almost everything replaced under the sun (OASIS history showed head gaskets, EGR coooler eight glow plugs, turbo, EGR valve replaced less than 5,000 kms. ago), complaining of lack of power, black smoke, and coolant puking out of de-gas bottle. The guy took it to another dealer before it came into my hands. Apparently, they were going to try hoop him for two new heads (out of warranty). When I got into it, I found the turbo up-pipe to turbo connection crooked. It took me all of two minutes to find this with a smoke test through the EP sensor tube!!! I had one bitch of a time trying to seat the turbo properly to the y-pipe. The guy that did this repair filled the coolant right up to the top. All pedestal bolts were left loose. The oil drain tube was bent to ratshit, and leaking oil all over the top of the engine. I don't consider myself a pro at working on these things, but I DEFINITELY wouldn't have released this truck to the customer like this. Cost of repair on this job was just a turbo drain tube and my labour to replace the turbo onto exhaust PROPERLY, as well as drain excess coolant. After a brief road test, monitoring all the PIDs ECT, EOT, ICP, IPR, EGR, EBP, MAP and MGP, I was happy, and SO WAS THE CUSTOMER. It really does make you wonder.

The last one I did was on an E-Series cubevan. Once the engine was out, it wasn't too bad. I pulled two head bolts for access I think. It you remove the head bolts, and count the number of turns, just remember to tighten it with one extra turn, and you'll be good to go.

.... or even disconnect the single wire connector on the right side of the engine compartment and connect it to the battery positive post to crank the engine.

... and the warranty nazis are at it again, cutting the times from 2.1 to 1.2. Gotta love it!!!I'm not even going to bother erasing DTCs or rerunning the IDS EGR test if they keep this up. Just a new EGR valve, and slam dunk, see you in the movies.

Do you mean TSB 07-07-07, for 1.0HR.?

I got one that just came today that I replaced the turbo about a year and 15,000 kms. ago. The complaint is "oil all over the place". I haven't gotten to it yet (because I'm swamped with work right now), but after taking a quick glance under the hood, there does appear to be fresh oil residue on the underside of the hood near the area where the turbo sits. Customer also complains of oil coming from the CAC rubber hose connections. I'm thinking the oil seals let go. Am I on the right track? Anyone seen this type of failure before, especially on a replacement turbo? Just for your info, I did replace the drain tube with the update, not that it should make any difference.

Since this thread is up and running again, I might as well add to it. My first stint at a Ford store was at a Ford light/heavy truck dealer. In every shop, you'll come across one or two loudmouths with a strong propensity for violence. One such tech at this shop, after doing something that obviously didn't work out favourably to him, threw a HUGE tantrum by kicking this box that happened to be the first thing he saw in his path. In this box, was a heavy truck diff. core. In this same dealer, I was working on the floor, under a motorhome in the middle of transplanting a complete axle assembly, when this moron of a tow truck driver backing up a disabled L8000 into the bay next where I was working, knocked over two bulk oil drums, spilling it over into my bay and drenching me almost completely before I had the time to "evacuate" from the danger. As I got up screaming at the guy, asking what the hell he was doing, he had nerve to say to me, "Well what the hell was I supposed to do?!!! I couldn't see!!!" The driver of this vehicle could not have looked any older than 18. Scary!!!

My service advisor's brother has this truck, complains of hard to shift from 1st to 2nd. Checked OASIS for SSMs and TSBs. None. Anyone come across a similar complaint to this? If so, how did you fix it? I haven't actually even seen this truck yet, let alone drove it?

Checked data bus + & data bus - as well as self-test circuit from DLC to the PCM (pins 13, 15 & 16), all good. Replaced PCM, truck fired up right away!!! Still have a hard time believing a shorted WIF sensor/fuel heater circuit could burn out a PCM.

The last couple I had with ICP pressures in the 200 to 300 range were the lower o-rings torn on the dummy rail plugs. That would be the big hex plug that goes into the rail where the standpipe would go, if it were installed on the other side.

A little more info to add, when turning the key on, the "service engine soon" light does illuminate, so I guess that means there is power going to the PCM, but I don't hear any clicking, nor does the "wait to start" light illuminate, yet I still get power to both the glow and manifold heater relays. Something is obviously missing here. Is there any possibility of other damage that only a shorted WIF sensor/fuel heater could have caused?

Well, further "digging" revealed, sure enough, a shorted WIF sensor/heater that melted the wires, exposing metal strands. Upon removal of the water separator housing, I found the water separator drain had been plugged with a bolt, and two worm clamps installed. Replaced water separator housing assembly and main engine harness. STILL unable to communicate with PCM/start vehicle!!!! Checked PCM/IDM relays= GOOD, checked the V-ref circuits= GOOD, checked PCM diode and compared reading with one from a new unit= GOOD, fuel pump not getting power (my guess is it's not being commanded. Checked for power to manifold air heater and glow relays when key on= GOOD. Checked ALL BJB and CJB fuses= GOOD!!! Running out of ideas!!!

Well guys, here's a good job for a late Friday afternoon. Came in on the hook, the customer complained of intermittent stalling, would not restart. Came in about two weeks ago. I did my KOEO/KOER tests monitor PIDs, EVERYTHING was well within specs. No CMDTCs even. He just had it to another shop that replaced the starter and batteries. Now, can't seem to boot up to IDS. VCM is getting power when connected to DLC. Got power to IDM and PCM relays when key on. I tried unplugging ICP, EBP, CMP so far, NO GO. I even tried unplugging the 42-pin engine connector, still NO GO. I was thinking v-ref short to ground. The guy did mention his interior and exterior lights flickering on and off a few times intermittently. I know it's going to be elctrical. Just wondering if anyone has come across any symptom similar to this? I am going to be towing this into the shop Monday with the forklift, in order to be able to dig further. I'm thinking my next step is to unplug the fuel heater. Any ideas? Unit has 230,000 kms.

No it wasn't directed toward you. I've already BTDT on my share of 6.0L HP oil system diagnostic repairs a few times myself, and I don't think it is physically possible to have everything done in ONE hour no matter how efficient you are. Now, back to the purpose of your orignal post, the turbo, intake and EGR cooler all have to be removed, as you are probably well aware by now. Are you replacing the branch tube as well, or just the STC fitting with the update bracket? If just the fitting and bracket, you're already there. If you are replacing the branch tube, you'll need to remove both VC, the transmission, and the rear engine cover to access. Never done one on an F-series my self yet, so I couldn't tell you if it was easy or not. I know the one I replaced on an E-series cubevan was horrible.

Another one of those with a mouth. These are the kind of assholes that open it in the wrong places to the wrong people, and get all our times dropped. I will gladly admit to making some gain time on some TSBs, but THIS one definitely isn't one of them!!! At 23.8 hrs. under the TSB for an E-series on the last one I did, there were OTHER issues.

What's going on for 2008 model year E-series? The last I heard, Ford was given the green light to resume production of the 6.0L in them, beginning in August. The models I've seen so far are the ugly looking ones with the nose of the 2008 F-series fitted to them. The ones I've seen so far, all spec.'d with the 5.4L gas engines. Anybody know what's going on? 6.0L yeah or nay?

'99-2000 model year is the year for pedestal failures if I remember correctly. I have seen one once where an internal seal inside the turbo itself let go, mind you that was only once, if that helps. Was the oil level correct? How about fuel quality? I haven't wrenched on too many 7.3s myself lately. Hmmm does that mean they're outlasting the 6.0s by any chance?

The reason for this post was just because I'm starting to get fed up with all these outside "garages" asking for free "information" from me, and then turning around and making our parts department a profit because of ME, while I starve. Just got an '05 F-550 in today with 220,000, blowing white smoke. I quoted EGR & oil coolers (still original), along with an EGR valve (failed IDS EGR test), only to get the NO GO. So much for trying to make a living!!!

Kinda reminds me of one that came in on the hook to me awhile back after I replaced an IDM (for a P1298). The SM and SA was getting ready to chew me a new asshole when I told them, "it helps when there's actually fuel in the tank" You should've seen the look on the owner's face when he was presented with the $350 tow bill and the $20 of diesel on the invoice!