2006

I had this code a few days ago. What I found was that the ccv reading jumped from about 3.7 volts to about 1.5 volts koeo by lightly touching the sensor connector. Installed a new breather and soldered in a new connector. Reading is stable now. Don't know how this really works. The pced reference values show it should be around 3.7 volts koeo and koer. I drove it around and my reading stayed at about 3.7 volts, just as the reference value states. I thought that there would be a bigger difference between koeo and koer.

Can the high pressure fuel lines that feed the fuel rails be replaced with the egr cooler in place?

Yes it does. Its really noticeable on the longer bodies. Seems it will trap a lot of heat under there when the diesels go into regen.

On long body factory built Transits, with multiple row passenger seats, the the exhaust tailpipe terminates under the body, like they didn't extend the tailpipe far enough from the factory. Some drivers have received warnings on roadside inspections about this and is against motor vehicle safety regulations. On any other vehicle, the tailpipes always stick out beyond the body, so the exhaust does not get trapped under the body. But on Transits, its different, the exhaust gets trapped under the body. Anyone ever notice this?

Rotunda wants $60 for 1 adapter Ebay has them for $13 for 1 adapter

I bought 2 of the revision e dongles, worked ok for about 1/2 day then gave me troubles. I sort of think the problem is with the IDS software. I saved a system image a while back when everything was working properly. If I restore the backed up image, everything will work great for weeks, then for no reason the vcm will not connect by wireless, but is always works when connected by usb cable. Does anyone know if and how a dedicated wireless channel can be used with the vcm2?

We had a bus that kept setting the 207F code, probably once a month, even after the complete exhaust, injector, nox sensors and DEF were replaced. The egr cooler flow test indicated it was ok. After a hotline suggestion, we removed the lower intake manifold and cleaned out all the carbon. Theres a passage inside thats part of the egr flow that was half restricted. Lots of soot came out. Pressure washed it out. This clean engine seems to run pretty dirty. We also replaced the egr cooler core at the same time even though it passed its test. Also replaced the plastic upper intake manifold. Its been more than a few months and its been ok so far...

I never tried this, but how about adding some oil dye into the rail then pressure checking. Should pinpoint the leak...

I've got a 6.4 bus that the cab cannot be removed due to the body overhang and it needs an engine. Anybody ever lifted the engine from the turbo pedestal mount? I though this may save some time, rather than removing the intake manifold and using the Ford lifting brackets. Also looking for any other tips. Thanks.

I tried it today, have to hold the camera pretty steady for it to read. If I can use ids with a wireless obd adapter, then I'll be impressed

This is an EGR application chart that I saved years ago that explains the differences of the early EGR valves.

Did the circuit tests lead you to G400, or is it something you normally check anyway?

If the pump timing wasn't set, then I wonder if the injector IQ codes are all mixed up also...

Is the code repeatable? If it does, then try and do the air pressure test again. But this time, at the same time, bump the starter over a little bit at a time. I had one before that only leaked at a certain spot and air was blowing back into the oil filter housing.

I just had a F150 with a 3.7 with the same setup and the same problem, wires rotted out at the r/f corner of the oil pan. Its easier to repair than a 6.7

Update: A new exhaust fixed it. Its been gone for a month. I don't know why the exhaust fixed it. But I do know, from what I can see through the SCR injector port, there is some dried up DEF on some of the baffles, but not a lot of it. I wanted to cut it apart, but it has to go back for warranty. When I did the prior approval, Ford actually called me and I spoke to someone who was very knowledgeable on the subject. He asked me some questions and told me to replace the exhaust, do a drive cycle. Also said the P207F continuous on 2015's will clear by itself after about 500 miles after it runs through all the monitors. Next time, when I follow the pinpoint test, when it gets to replacing the NOX sensor, I'm going to replace both sensors and the exhaust at the same time rather than wasting my time doing 1 thing at a time.

I would suggest to check the ebp tube. When restricted/plugged, I've seen them cause ebp circuit codes. Not because theres a circuit fault, but because the reading can be too high due to exhaust pressure trapped in the tube. To test, I remove the ebp sensor from the tube and leave it connected to the wiring harness. This will make to turbo vanes go to the full closed position because its trying to raise the backpressure. Then check the exhaust flow out of the tube, should be a good flow of exhaust out of it.

Lately, I've only seen plugs on the top port.

This has been working for me also. Crack the bolt loose, tighten it up a bit to get the threads into a neutral position so the penetrating oil soaks through easier. Wait about 10-15 minutes. I use Aerokroil.

I remember after a head gasket job I got this code. Some coolant was inside the ebp sensor, my fault. The pinpoint test didn't really help me, but I knew this code was not there before I started the job and it had to be something I did. And we had a couple of delivery vans that kept setting this code years ago. It used to set when they were driving over mountain passes in winter. There was a ssm for a reflash. Something to do with condensation freezing inside the ebp tube on a cold engine.

To get it out of idle mode only, I followed TSB 14-0192. The same procedure is also in the PCED. Follow it exactly as it says. I had to do it 3 times before I got it right. This is with the P207F in memory. I'm going to wait for the new SCR to come in because hotline said to do that next. One thing I didn't do, when resetting the NOX sensors, I didn't wait the 3 minutes with the key off. I'll try that again after replacing the exhaust.

I have a P207F right now on a 2015. It was in forced idle. I followed the fault procedure and got out of the forced idle mode. Doing PPT RD. Dosing and DEF are good. I've replaced NOX11 and NOX12 so far and reset both sensors. There is no hard faults but the P207F is in continuous codes and I can't clear it even after a drive cycle. Theres no MIL or fault messages on the cluster. This SSM comes up: SSM 45187 - 2015-2016 F-Super Duty Vehicles Equipped With 6.7L Diesel - Diagnostic Trouble Codes That Cannot Clear When Using A ScanToolWhen servicing 2015-2016 F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with 6.7L diesel engine, they may exhibit a MIL On with DTCs:P218F, P123E, P123F, P22A2, P2204, P207F, P204E, P2085, P204F, P202E, P130E, P203E, and P205E, that remain present after repairing/attempting to clear fault DTCs,using a scan tool. These DTCs cannot be cleared with a scan tool. Note: After fixing the root concern for the identifiedMIL DTCs, if any of these DTCs have status flags of: -08,-18,-48,-58 and -68. You may proceed to clear any accompanying DEF Fluid System Fault messages in Instrument Panel Cluster(IPC). Use Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) System Procedures in PC/ED Manual Section 2, for correct drive cycles to clear DEF System Fault messages. If MIL is no longer On and DEF Fluid System Fault messages are no longer present, no further repairs are needed. I don't really know what this means and how it the code is supposed to clear. On a drive cycle, the NOX EVAL changes from NO to YES. Doesn't that mean the system is working correctly? If I can't clear it with the IDS, is it supposed to clear by itself during a successful drive cycle? I have authorization to replace the the SCR next, but somehow I think I'm missing something.

Is there a steady stream of pressure or pulsing coming out of the oil filler when its idling?

This engine was removed and rebuilt by the customer. After installation, it did not start. RPM pid kept jumping from 0 to 150 and there was no sync. Somewhere during the process, the crank sensor trigger wheel teeth were hit and flattened/damaged. It was visible with a boroscope through the crank sensor hole, but hard to see and could be missed. It is very easy to see on the scope, the amplitude drops off.

I had the same code/problem a while back under warranty. A new SCR fixed it. This may sound stupid, but why can't you unbolt the rear of the scr and spray straight water in the def injector port? Wouldn't this clear out all the def crystals?