2006

Not getting paid while working doesn't sound right either, due to some flat rate warranty b.s.

Google it. I found it in 15 seconds www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/fad/tsb/072314.pdf

Thanks all for the turbo manual. I learned quite a bit from this website over the last few years. In return, I have a few diesel booklets that I have not seen on this website or anywhere else. The 7.3 IDI manual, a ragged paper 6.9 manual (the 1983 6.9 glow plug electrical diagrams are priceless), and a 2000 F650/F750 7.3 manual, air suspension, rabs and a bunch of other training guides that other people throw out. Problem is that I don't have a color scanner. I'll try to get the diesel guides scanned somewhere then try to upload them somehow in the next few weeks... I also have some copies of the early service manual dvd's if anyone is interested, the 92-96 and the 96-02. I'll try uploading these to Rapidshare or something similar later... Thanks Bill

Hello all, There is a turbo guide booklet that was sent along with the turbo transducer tool. This is where you remove the pipe plug on top of the turbo and install the transducer in it and attach it to the vmm and ids to see if the turbo is sticking. I'm looking for the booklet that came with it. The booklet had some graphs in it that showed a sticking turbo as compared to a good turbo. If anyone has the booklet, could you please upload it. Thanks

THANKS for the FAST response...

Ford put out a FICM coffee table book about 5 or 6 years ago. I lost mine somewhere. Anyone have a pdf of this they can upload here? Thanks

I just drag the head on gravel out in the parking lot...

I remember having the same problem years ago on a 95 or 96 truck. The lid would blow off about once a week. I never really found the root cause of it, but the problem went away. First, there used to be a SSM about this. If it has dual tanks, there is a fuel selector valve on the frame rail. If there are any aftermarket devices connected to the power feed of this selector valve, it can cause the valve to shift when the engine or device is turned off. This causes the valve to block off any return flow from the fuel pump and causes a spike in fuel pressure which will blow the lid off. That SSM did not help me. I ended up removing the fuel filter restriction switch on the side of the fuel filter housing and installing a pressure gauge. This is the low pressure side of the lift pump. This will be the same pressure at the fuel filter. If I remember right, the service manual said it should be less than 10 psi. I was getting about 20 psi on high rpms on decel. I then put a fuel gauge on the return line to the fuel tank, it was close to 0 psi, so I did not have a return line restriction. The only other thing it could have been was the lift pump, a blockage in one of the passages in the filter housing or a sticking pressure regulator valve. I was also thinking that the fuel heater could have been stuck on. Since the truck was still under warranty at that time, I replaced them all. The pressure came down to about 10 psi. It was ok for about 3 years, then it happened again. The customer then sold it...

I've done this job your way many times. The last time, I dropped one of the cover bolts inside the engine. I got lucky and retrieved it with a magnet. Now, to avoid dropping bolts, I remove the y pipe and shield completely. It takes me about a extra 15 minutes, but I can cut the silicone better and remove the cover easier without the risk of dropping the 2 cover bolts in the engine.

I believe it means, re/re the unison ring for cleaning or replacing = 1 hour. The .3 is for replacing the CHRA, (swapping the housing and vgt) If they are only going to give you .3 for replacing the CHRA, which includes the cleaning, your probably better off just replacing light bulbs, which pay the same amount of time...

-I would do a high pressure air leak test first to make sure that the high pressure side is not leaking. -Oil pressure relief valve possibly sticking -If you have the high pressure oil cover off, you can try and remove the oil sending unit and apply about 40 psi of shop air into that port and listen for a air leak, similar to a high pressure air test. There will be some air loss through the piston cooling jets. -Make sure you have the right oil filter on it. Oil could be dumping back through the drain valve. -You can remove the oil cooler and test the oil pressure in the vertical oil gallery from the oil pump and checking the pressure there. This can test the oil pump, strainer and relief valve. You should have a lot of pressure even when cranking.

I have also seen these oil sending units leak (the one for the gauge), but I have never seen the oil temp sensor leak(the one for the pcm). And both are on the same oil passage on the oil cooler cover. Just wondering if the oil pressure could be climbing too high. I remember checking oil pressures when cold, it can climb to about 100 psi when reved up, drops down to about 40 psi when hot. I though that 100 psi was a problem. Checked a few more trucks, and they all had about the same pressures when cold. I think if the oil pump pressure relief valve was stuck closed, the pressure would likely go well above 100 psi cold. But then you would think it would blow the plastic oil filter cap off...

Never thought of that. A little bit of heat from a clean burning propane torch and melt a small piece of solder. I know its warranty fraud, but the way I look at it, I'm saving Ford money by replacing it now, rather than later.

I've done a lot of head gaskets inside the truck. Remove the front wheels and put a 2x4 on the ground under the front ball joints. Lower the hoist and let the truck sit on the ground on the ball joints. This will compress the suspension and lower it even further. Then I remove the radiator, then do the rest of the work while standing inside the engine compartment. Keep your toolbox and a bench close by so you don't have to keep climbing out of the engine compartment.

Looks like the flexible tube out of a fuel pump

We use the Norco engine stand with the optional 6.4 adapters. It works on the 6.0 and 6.4. It bolts in place of the engine mounts. It works well. http://www.norcoind.com/norco/products_78200.shtml

I have a few thing to say about that tsb. Please correct me if I am wrong. On step 3, it says to record the ficm calibration because its required in step 11. It does not say its required for the repair order. On step 5, it says to disconnect the power feed to the passenger side battery. On a econoline, there is no passenger side battery, both batteries are frame mounted. Even if you access the frame mounted batteries, there is no separate power feed to the glow plugs. The econoline power feed is either at the junction terminal near the glow plug module or at the starter terminal (depending on the year) On step 10 (a) (2), when checking power on pins 4,7,8,23,24,25, it does not tell you to ground pin 27 to turn the ficm relay on. If you don't ground pin 27, the relay will not turn on and there will be no power to those pins. The ficm error state check does not list all the possibilities. If you have ficm_lpwr of 11.5 volts and ficm_vpwr of under 45 volts, it does not lead you to anywhere.

I would check the egr o rings for being cut first. If thats ok, reinstall the egr valve but leave it disconnected. Run the engine and then block off the tailpipe with your foot and get someone to watch the ebp pid. If the pid does not increase, I would suspect a exhaust leak somewhere

I totally agree with the above statement. I found this out one day after fixing a coolant leak for a relative. I spent a full day working on this including running around for parts and supplies. I don't recall how much gas I used in the process. At the end of it all, she wanted the parts invoices and paid for the parts. And for the labour, I got a bag of donuts...in which she ate half of them. Now when she wants her car fixed, I tell her that I don't keep any tools at home anymore and refer her to another shop.

Your service manager seems to have an issue. Its not your fault it came in overheating. I would have done the same thing you did. Fix the obvious fan clutch problem and road test it. If it passes, ship it. I would have wrote a discalimer on the r.o. stating that future engine damage may likely result due to the gross overheating.

I don't have a lot of 6.4 experience and am just trying to learn. What steps did you take to determine that the pump was faulty? For instance, I had a truck from another dealer who did not have time to repair it because they said the cab had to come off to replace the pump. It had low fuel pressure. I didn't pull the cab like they said. I followed the hotline recommendations to do the fog test and to mount the injectors upside down to test for a leak. I found 1 leaking, replaced it and it ran ok. What tests did you make and what made you go after the pump? Thanks

I've installed many radiators before but just installed my first venturi tee. Just wondering if this tee really works. Has anybody had a radiator leak after installing the venturi tee?

And if there are any pieces missing off the injector, FIND THEM!! before they end up damaging the oil pump and timing cover

The engine wasn't good the first time, but a lot of parts were updated. Head bolt torque was revised for a reason... I agree that parts can fail. I've had my share of that. Thats out of your control if a part fails. The majority of parts I find, are o.k. I agree that a tsb can get bounced. The dealer has different avenues to appeal that bounced tsb. If you don't follow a tsb nowdays, the claim is sure to get bounced. If you follow it to the letter, Ford has to pay at the end. They may ask a few questions, but all you did was follow their instructions that they wrote. You can't be blamed for that. On another note, if you just replaced a failed egr and oil cooler and then road tested it to find the coolant pressure reaches about 10 psi, do you take it apart again and replace the head gaskets or do you let the truck go? 10 psi is under the Ford tsb specs, so if you follow the tsb, you let the truck go. But, did you road test it with a loaded trailer, uphill under extended boost? All I can tell you is that when I replace everything, including the head gaskets, my coolant pressure has a hard time just to reach 2 psi, uphill under extended boost. This all assumes that the trucks not chipped!

If the truck or van is under warranty and it smokes or I see coolant stains all over the resevoir, I replace the egr cooler, oil cooler and head gaskets all at the same time. I don't bother testing coolers, but I say I do. Once I replaced everything, I know that engine is good for a long, long time and I feel confident that the repair is going to last. If you follow the tsb's, Ford has to pay the claim. You may call me a butcher or hacker for replacing everything, but I know I did my best and gave the customer some confidence that their truck is not going to smoke again. Also, doing it all at 1 time is cheaper for Ford than doing it 2 times. I think Ford should be thanking me for doing it this way. If its retail, I only do whats needed and give the customer the option if they want to go further.