2006

I've seen that recently. Truck came in with a missfire and no engine noise. Replaced 1 broken rocker arm. Started engine, the missfire was gone but it made a popping noise. Ran the engine without the valve cover and I could almost remove the bridge by hand. Ended up being a roller lifter.

That's how I do it, but I also want to make a copy of the dvd. I can copy it ok, but it won't install...

Hi, Anyone know or tried to copy a service manual dvd? I like to keep a copy around the shop in case the internet goes down and we can't use the online manuals. I don't want the original dvd's getting scratched. Its the single 2007 and the single 2008, with the label which says "do not discard" I can copy it, but it won't install. It may be some type of copy protection software but I'm not sure. I can copy the previous years dvd's, but not the 2007, 2008...

I back up all my important things to adrive, http://www.adrive.com/ Free 50 gigs of storage.

I use Magic Disc, you can have up to 15 virtual drives. I have all the Ford service discs from 1992 to 2011 mounted. Works perfectly. lmorris method also works. Either way, its a lot faster than using the online manuals.

not sure how old this thread is, but i am also looking for the ect/iat2 connector on a 6.0 the motorcraft catalog does not show it. can't see it in the ac/delco catalog either. according to the post by fordracer, the part number is F65B-14A464-JB, did anyone verify if this is the right connector for the 6.0?

I always spin the engine over several times by hand after the first stage of torquing the head gaskets. I make sure all the valves open and make sure theres a little slack in the rocker when the valve is closed. Never had a problem since. Don't want to install a e-series engine and find out later you missed positioning a bridge or pushrod.

Can anyone give me a link to the current warranty cost caps. I had a printout of it, lost it, now I can't find it online anymore. Thanks.

I always find the 6.0's have about .2 volts ac at the alternator output stud and ground with all the accessories turned on. Anything more gets a full charging system test. For a better quick test, I also use the older Snap On Vantage tester and use a .01uf capacitor in one of the test leads. Connect it to the alternator or battery or even into the powerpoint. You will see the voltage ripple. After you see a few good waveforms, the bad alternators ones are easy to pick out.

Quote: Funny you mention that. Pretty much all 6.4L engines I've have the valve covers off of, have worn the ball pivot off almost completely where it contacts the valve bridges. Yet on 6.0L engines with equal or higher mileage they all seem intact. The design setup between the two are almost identical. What gives? The 6.0 doesn't "grow oil" like the 6.4. If you run the engine on part engine oil and part diesel fuel, bad things are bound to happen. Has any other company used the term "grow oil"?

Anybody can do the job right, above and beyond what Ford calls for. All you have to do is supply your own labor, parts and paint costs out of your own pocket

I also change the regulator along with any injectors even if it falls with specs. The new regulator springs are 2 coils longer. With new filters on a f-series, the pressure is boosted to 70 psi max and about 55 psi min with the new fuel gauge tester. It also helps those lazy injectors...

Just to add a few points on what I was after with the dvd networking. First, we do have a wireless system which works well with our 3 ids's and use the wireless for updates, etc.. We do realize the online manuals have the latest info available and should be used first. But, there are certain times when access to the Ford website is slow. And when you need to view several pages of the online manual, it can take a while flipping back and forth through the pages. I just want to use the dvd networking as a backup system to those slow online manuals. Loading dvd's on the hard drive using virtual cd drives allows for extremely fast loading service manuals. We also realize that allowing file sharing can cause a host of problems. The file sharing will be within our group and our network is firewalled. So, the original question was, if you have a networking system in your shop, how did you set it up? The closest way I could get it to work was through using remote desktop. I just want to know if there are any other ways...

Looking for some advice on networking with windows xp. We have 1 shop desktop pc that is loaded with all the ford service manual dvd's from 1992 to 2011. Theres a few guys that have their own laptops. I'm trying to let the laptops connect to the shop pc over the wireless network to view the service manual dvd's. If anyone has this type of setup, can you please tell me the best way to do it. Thanks

Thanks, excellent info. Is this from a ssm? Tsb? I don't recall reading this anywhere...

I see a lot of e-series with wierd cmp and ckp issues. They always seem to clear up if you disconnect the pcm or the sensor connectors. The problems seem to go away for a few weeks then come back with the same concern. A new harness always fixes it. I never see anything wrong with the old harnesses. May it had poor pin fits or shielding?

I just did head studs on a 4x4 a few weeks ago. I did what was said on a previous message, unbolt the trans mount and raise the rear of the trans as far as it will go. You can then install the studs after positioning the head. Another trick I found by accident, when doing oil coolers, raise the back end of the truck about 2 feet. This will make it easier to work in the engine compartment and when removing the old oil cooler, all of the oil in the oil resevior, will travel to the front of the resevior instead of going to the rear h.p. pump passage. This will prevent any dirt from getting into the h.p. pump and ipr valve.

We had one with a 0088. Tech found a shorted wire on the pump gasket. Hotline said to replace the gasket only. So, he just replaced the gasket. A week later, the same code came up. He replaced the pump this time. That was about 2 months ago, so far its been ok with the new pump.

Is this a E or F series. If its a E, its more likely to be a wiring harness

There are ways to fool that machine into thinking the battery is bad. I'm not waiting for that machine to charge up the battery. I wait 5 minutes only for results. If I have to wait longer, I manually fail it. And I never had a claim returned because of it.

I work at a union shop. part of the contract is that the company pays tool insurance with coverage up to $30,000. Fortunately, we never had to use it so far. The building is all monitored and alarmed.

Quote: For better results try the Compression Bubble Test. Observe the video to the right. Simply remove the secondary filter cap and filter, then top off the housing with fuel just above the standpipe. Pressing down on the bypass valve on top of the standpipe wont open the valve because it has to interlock with a filter before it will move but it should open just enough to allow air to exit. You may also remove the green o-ring at the top of the standpipe but YOU MUST remember to reinstall it after performing this test! Using a remote starter switch, crank the engine with the IGNITION KEY IN THE OFF POSITION. Observe the filter housing watching for any air bubbles coming from the standpipe. The motion of the engine cranking may make bubbles difficult to see. Stop cranking the engine and residual bubbles may still be seen for a few seconds. The presence of air bubbles indicates that a combustion leak exists but this will not help identify a particular cylinder or cylinder bank. Usually, that information is already known from other test data. If you have performed the Balloon Test you will find this method much easier and more effective. Save the balloons for a party. I was just reading the excellent article on the combustion bubble test. I just want to add my opinion on this method. An additional step that I do is to completely remove the plastic stand pipe inside the filter housing, there are 2 small torx screws and a o ring. You will then see the 2 passages that go to each cylinder bank. Jump the starter to crank the engine, then you can look at the small passages to see which cylinder bank the air is coming from. I understand the power balance test will give you a good indication of which bank is giving the trouble, but watching for bubbles gives you solid proof that air is causing the problem.

Those lifting brackets won't work on a complete assembled engine. Don't know why Ford doesn't supply the correct bracket. If you are going to pull a 6.4 to do a bedplate, your not going to disassemble part of the engine in the chassis to use those universal brackets. If anyone remembers, is the r/r bracket the same as the l/f bracket?

Does that rear lifting bracket have a part number?? If not, I would appreciate it if you could trace that rear lifting bracket on a piece of paper to use as a template, then post it on this website. This way, we can make our own bracket. Thanks.

i just installed a short block, built it completely on the engine stand, including the turbo and pipes. had a problem when lifting it, could not get it leveled properly when installing it. i used the factory lift bracket on the left front corner of the engine. the right rear corner does not have a lifting bracket. anyone know if there is a proper lifting bracket for the r/r corner that will allow it to be lifted level? the 6.0 bracket fits onto the block, but then it sits crooked.