2006

I have a Dell Latitude, 14 inch screen, business class laptop, bought used. Use with the wireless VCM. I only connect the USB when I'm programming.

There's an oil cooler bypass valve that's sits in the oil filter housing. Maybe its damaged? Its in the first 6.0 coffee table book

Just wondering, when you overlayed the wire, did you cut the old wire out of the circuit?

I had similar problem with bolts breaking on the passenger side. I think that when egr coolers are removed, coolant leaks down the valve cover and into the bolt holes. Over time, corrosion starts and causes the problem.

I had a 6.7 F350 with 10,000 miles with an exhaust sensor code, P200C and P200E. The freeze frame showed EGT13 reading over 2000F, all the others were about 150F. I followed the TSB and replaced EGT13. Under the TSB, there is was no diagnosing, I just replaced the sensor, cleared the codes and I was done with it. 300 miles later, the same codes came back for the same sensor. I remember there was a recent TSB about replacing the body harness connector at the EGT sensors. I can't find that TSB and it didn't come up for that VIN. Maybe the TSB was deleted? I depinned the EGT harness connector to check the pin fit and crimp, it looked ok and reinstalled it. I did a very light wiggle test of the harness while watching the pids, no problems seen. Next step, I swapped the new suspect sensor with another sensor. Road test, monitored all temperature pids, all were reading normal, then EGT13 started jumping a bit, then within a few seconds it climbed to its maximum, then the engine quit. I did another wiggle test in the shop, EGT13 starting jumping. At the end of it all, found a spread pin at the PCM harness connector causing the problem. I don't know why it spread, the pin out of the PCM was ok. The connector looked original and didn't look like it was apart before. I replaced the harness pin. Anyway, the truck is fixed and I just thought I'd post this to help someone with a repeat code...

The steering wheels controls, wipers, signals that are intermittently inoperative is likely caused by the steering column control module. Just did one with the same complaint a few weeks ago. Its an easy fix. Remove the steering wheel and column covers. Replace the module and reprogram it. For the heater controls acting up, there's a reflash for the front control interface module, FCIM, that fixes the problem. For the radio, do a Sync reflash.

2007 F350 I replaced the suspect injector, it fixed the misfire and code. And it has not stalled so far. But I still can't say both problems were related...

Anyone ever had a injector cause a cold engine stall when decelerating to slow down? I have a F350 that has a injector circuit code, I verified its the injector causing the code and verified the stall. Its like someone just turns the key off. It starts right away. I just have a code for the injector circuit. I am not sure if the injector is related to the engine stall. I unplugged the suspect injector and cold started it a few times, and it has not stalled so far. I've had injectors cause a no start but have not experienced them causing a stall...

I used the IC4COM interface with the latest ServiceMax and it works on a old Windows XP laptop with a serial port. It did not work on a newer laptop under Windows 7 or Windows 8 using a usb to serial converter cable. The XP laptop also worked fine with NETS. Ford hotline gave me a new Navistar password for programming a week ago which worked with NETS. I believe it expires after a few months, then you have to request it again...

I've had a few problems over the years when updating. Now, whenever there is a major update, I always uninstall the current IDS and run the "IDS Clean Tool". Then I install the new version of IDS. Never had a problem this way...

Last time I had that code, hotline told me to replace the egr valve and do the reset procedures. And if the code returns, then replace the oil/vapor separator. Also said the oil/vapor separator may be upsetting the maf readings. I just replaced both. One or the other fixed the problem...

I'm trying to reflash a LCF. I've done quite a few before, a few years ago, using NETS with no problems. Trying to do one today. Trying to change my NETS password, but for some reason the NETS password screen does not open. Has anyone used NETS lately? DId it work for you? Also, does the old IC4COM interface still work with the new ServiceMaxx. I can't get that to work either...

I have a bit of a problem with my new wireless VCM2. Read through all the posts and didn't find anything similar to what I have. The VCM2 communicates perfectly with my laptop when using the usb cable. But when I try the wireless function, it will not communicate with IDS, only if I'm inside the shop. If I'm outside the shop, the VCM2 wireless communicates perfectly. As soon as I drive into the shop, it loses communication with the laptop. I tried turning the shop wireless router off, turning the lights off, disconnecting power to various parts of the shop but it still happens. What I'm suspecting now is maybe the shop security system motion detectors are interfering with the VCM signal. Even if the alarm system is disabled, the motion sensors are still active.

Your right about the Vega getting first prize. It was Motor Trends Car Of The Year!!! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_Trend_Car_of_the_Year

If the seal number is CR 47860, then you can use kit 5C3Z 1S175 BA. The kit comes with 2 seals, 2 speedi sleeves, locktite and a speedi sleeve installer. I remember the kit was from a ssm about leaking mid 2000's F450 and F550 axle seals. Last time I checked there was not much stock left in the system.

Thanks, I'll keep the numbers handy. This website sure has a lot of good information in it, and the people who contribute deserve a lot of credit for making life easier for everyone.

I remember reading a message some years ago that listed the 6.0 engines built with the latest STC fittings. It listed the engine serial numbers that had the latest fitting. It was good information. I tried the forum search function, but it did not come up... Anyone know what the serial numbers were?

From my experience, cracked tips is caused by either grit, water, running dry, air in fuel or low fuel pressure. If replacing injectors on a Econoline, before starting the engine, I always remove the fuel rail plugs at the rear of the cylinder heads with a 6mm allen wrench, and turn the key on. The fuel rails will purge and flush out. On a truck, I use the fuel pressure tester and bleed out what I can from the upper fuel filter housing first, because we all replace the fuel filters with injectors. Then I idle the engine for 30 seconds on, and 1 minute off, until it runs smooth. Also, I never replace fuel injectors without first checking fuel pressure, with the Ford fuel pressure tester and the test valve open. If its low, new filters and a pressure regulator fixes it most of the time...

Very impressive write up by Brad Clayton on the cab removal. Thanks!

This link does not work anymore, was it removed for a reason? Or is it just a website issue?

Anytime I find one of those bolts thats too tight or seizing up on removal, I retighten them and stop. Then I remove the inner fender and battery tray, remove 1 a/c line and slide the cooler out with that pipe still bolted to the exhaust manifold. I found this way is a lot quicker and less of a hassle than trying to drill or using a welder to remove a broken stud.

I don't know if its possible on a truck, but I would try checking the fuel pressure at the plug at rear of the head, similar to the way you check it on an Econoline, with the Ford fuel pressure tester. Maybe the fuel line has a kink after the engine replacement, or a restriction in it.

I see a lot of trucks that are used in city driving and short trips. They always have overfilled crankcases with overdue regens. I find the biggest issue is that the customer really does not know when it is in regen. The message center shows "Cleaning Exhaust Filter" for a few seconds and unless the driver is looking at the cluster all the time, they are going to miss it. With overdue regens, the "Drive to Clean" message comes on, and stays on, but then the crankcase is already over full. There should have been a idiot light on the dashboard when its in regen, so the customer knows not to turn the truck off and to take it for a highway drive.

Got it, will keep it forever, thanks a bunch...

Anyone know where I could get a copy of Sync.pdf? It was mentioned earlier in this thread, "Long crank time '03 6.0" Thanks...