Aaron

I don't know WHERE the sensor is, there's about 15 temp sensors in the cooling system. They aren't complaining of anything else, at this point. I was thinking along the lines of a gauge, as well... but I like to have wiring diagrams/shop manuals handy or at least the pertinent sections while screwing around with stuff... I'd hate to fry an ECM or something.

Rubbed through internally, I'm guessing. I see a lot of problems when I wiggle the harness right at that big ball of shit near the fuel filter housing where the CMP wiring comes into... E-series + 6.0 is always a recipe for pain.

I spent a lot of time screwing with the one I had, and if I recall rightly, the truck I was playing with was 2wd. You let the wheel go and it would rock back and forth about 15 degrees total, real fast... almost like if you were to put an elastic band between two fingers, spread way apart, and put a pencil through the two pieces of the elastic band, wound it about a half turn, and let it go, if you can imagine that. As of late though, I have had quite a few of those axle joints seize up and they have sometimes created VERY interesting driving conditions... Just cruising down the road, then all of a sudden.... BANG, Hey! I'm headed for the ditch! That's neat! Better straighten that up.... Do de do do do... cruisin along BANG! Now I'm headin' for the fuckin' ditch again! MAAAAAAAAAAAAN! Spooky, the first couple of 'em you get.

Fine is $10,000 if I recall rightly.

That damn song.... again.... On topic: I was told by Simon Gour (FSE SW Ontario) in the USA, EPA is going around to these shops, if they find shit with plates on it, bang instant fine. If they run a vin on a vehicle and it comes back as registered/plated, bang. Instant fine. He told me the Emissions warranty is cancelled by removing DPF/DOC, Powertrain warranty cancelled by modifying PCM programming.

Truck vin: 1FDZS96M7WVA07454 Engine serial: 1YN07264 Temp gauge on dash inop. Can someone get me some wiring diagrams or pinpoint tests, as well as some component locations? Would be greatly appreciated. Anyone know of any lnown concerns on these? Thanks a bunch!

Make sure you tell 'em to go to Knapp's in Essex this time!! Thanks Larry! Oh and tell 'em I'm still waiting on my free shirt!

Just did one, ended up replacing complete turbo assy. since CHRA had been replaced TWICE and cleaned THREE TIMES already... Hotline figured something wrong with the exhaust side of the VGT when it got hot. I took the old turbo apart, it was carboned up not very much, ring moved pretty freely on the CHRA but the vanes were tough to move on the pins in the exhaust side of the housing.

I put a steering box in one for this exact concern. When you crank the wheel over, does it rock back and forth when you let it go and it kicks back?

That was a good read! Thank you!

Keith, that sounds like it was a bit of a head scratcher. Never worked on one much from underneath, can you get at the plug or is it behind the starter, again. Had a coolant leak on one, clamp was busted at the radiator on the hose from the degas bottle, another one to note. Engineering called me on the phone about that one.

We have a John Beam (Bean?) Machine from Snap on. It uses IR cameras, which is a no-no for your shop, but it's proved itself pretty good at our shop. Easy setup. Easy to use. I RARELY do alignments and find myself not having a terrible time on our machine.

I usually like asking guys welding/cutting without a mask/goggles on if they know what arc flash is. If the answer is 'no', my response is, You'll find out in the morning.

Saw that today. I think we've only sold two 6.7 trucks so I should be run off my ass doing this recall I am interested to see how the added power and torque makes the truck drive

The DEF won't show anything other than Full, XX (half tank) miles to empty, or xx (critically low) miles to empty. And DEF is covered by FMPP, but only during an oil change. Ideally they told us at training it should require filling at or around your oil change interval, and should be filled during the oil change procedure. So only at maintenance intervals, not if it's low. I have documentation stating as such, and it's in the 2010 ESP guide.

I'd work for five hours, and then stop. Five hours is absurd for that amount of work. You could have 5 hours in R&R the fucking cab, if the mount bolts give you grief!

I got no CEL and no Wrench lamp on. No codes.

I'm gonna try and avoid driving it... it's lifted way way up, I can't even get my crippled ass in/out of it.

Customer states dead pedal after a steady state cruise, for about 30 seconds. Seems to be after a long highway drive. He said it's also been doing it more and more, around town as well now and not just after a steady state cruise. He's swapped the interior out (entirely) with a Harley interior, including the pedals and the truck had the same concern before and after the pedals were swapped out. Anybody seen anything like this? Of course, no codes, and unable to duplicate. Thanks in advance fellows!

Wow, that is a shit-ton of oil. You'd almost think it'd be running out the tailpipe. Can we VERIFY how much oil it's using? I mean... put 2-300 miles on it, and if he's putting a gallon in it every 450MI... it should be fairly easy to verify. Like some others have said... turbine wheel missing is the first thing that comes to mind... Do a manual compression test and see how close the holes are in PSI to each other. Crankcase pressure would be worthwhile to check, also. Also, it might be worth it to yank the CAC outta there and see how much oil is/isn't in there. Alternatively, you could take a rag, attach it securely to the end of a coathanger, and stuff it down in the CAC after pulling the tubes off, would be easier than pulling it out, but at any rate it sounds to me like you're likely gonna have it out of the truck at one point or another anyway... so pulling it out now might be a good diagnostic aid, as well as a time saver later into the job.

^^^ Ain't that the truth. Greg -- This front cover, is it the same as the OE front cover? Or is it different? There was some chatter somewhere awhile back about them changing something in the front cover (Specifically, something to do with the way the coolant inlet allowed flow to the water pump) to help aid in cavitation prevention. The front cover cavitation worries the hell out of me, being the owner of one.

I usually put the keys in my pocket for the vehicle I am working on, if I get called away. Had a 6.4 truck have the hood closed, and driven outside by an advisor when I walked away to take a whiz. Truck had no oil in it. And another one, 6.0, had the oil line off the turbocharger on that one. Wow did that ever make a mess. So the keys go in my pocket, or when I pull 'em in the bay, after I'm done my diagnostification, I throw the key up on the sunvisor, out of sight.

Oil pressure runs the VGT...so maybe it doesn't have enough oil pressure to move the actuator properly. I really liked that mechanical gizmo on the 6.4 for moving the VGT. I wonder if there is going to be an updated oil pressure regulator for the 6.7 coming down the road, or at least a calibration change to account for the low startup oil rpessure

GAS AXE the whole works out. What a fuckin' treat this is gonna be....