cbriggs

I am curious why they would remove the rad degass hose and nipple all together?

I usually plug the new sensor in and let it hang, then run the truck in the shop, lift it and swap the sensor in.

Taylor makes an insulating sleeve to go over plug wires that are too close to headers. They open up pretty big, could probably slide one over it.

Matt, an 05 with a programmer will throw throttle plate codes. The A/M programs don't usually differ between throttle plate or delete units, but ones without throw circuit codes(non MIL).

Oh good call Kieth!

I have seen the shields on the newest style kit slide down and expose enough wire to rub thru. I zip tie both ends now so the shielding cant slide.

Kal tire does bandag retreads, most of them seem to be pretty good. Just need to inspect them regularly, if the tread strip pulls of the casing it makes a mess of your trailer/cargo.

Most trucks I scan show a dist regen avg. around 600 to 900km's. I have not looked at one for frequent regen yet ,luckily. Anything that affects the calculation of soot content(air flow, temp sensors, pressure sensors) could cause this, as well as anything that is actually causing the engine to create more soot, (egr concern, injection concern, turbo concern) I assume the dealer recommended that you try a few tanks of fuel from a different supplier than you normally use? I would have a look at the maf sensor for starters, dirty maf's cause all sorts of strange issues on these. Also is the inside of the tailpipes clean? How is your dpf useage compared to before this started happening?

I had one of these along time ago. Same deal, pcv did not fix it, replacing the rail did. I was told the same, a loose part inside the rail can cause the problem. Wouldn't be too bad to replace the rail except you have to replace the fuel lines which adds a whole pile of work.

Ya I see a lot of them. Mostly warranty, but diaged one retail, and never fixed it.

If your frp was reading 7 to 12k / 1.5 to 1.9v without the engine running you have an frp circuit or sensor fault.

I am putting a long block 3.0l 2v Vulcan reman in a 96 Taurus, along with a new rad, all at the customers request on his own diag. He said it lost oil pressure and started rattling, time for a new engine. During teardown I found the cam sensor/ oil pump drive gear teeth spun off because the synchronizer got tight.

We have a synthetic multi vehicle atf that is good for everything except LV, Type F and some Asian stuff. We have had great luck with it in place of atf +4, dex 6, and all ford vehicles that don't require lv. When LV first came out it was 3 times the price of SP. I priced compared them a month or so ago and SP was a bit over twice the price of LV. The price of LV is actually fairly inline with other by the bottle atf in the parts store.

I only have 2 lines Aaron. Not sure where the rest of my stash went.

The hang up when closing a page on pts must be a ford thing, our shop desktop running 7 does it for the past few months as well.

I may have a set of lines Aaron, I will check in my box tomorrow. I have also been told that the tty line fittings can be reused 3 to 4 times, but without anyway to verify how many times they have been installed, replacement is recommended. This being your own truck, you are likely certain that they have never been reused. You could always put dye in the fuel and run it with the valve covers off post repair to verify you have no leaks.

To start, I'm not even sure how this is possible. I had a 2011 6.7l truck towed in today. Customer bought it in Abbotsford yesterday, and is in transit back to Calgary, where he is from. It was running rough, and eventually shut down and would not restart. Has a bunch of dpf overtemp codes and soot accumulation and a P2073 and P2074. The odometer shows 84000 ish kms. The engine hours are in the 2600hours, which seems quite high, so I looked at the dist-total pid in the pcm. It shows 138000 ish kms, which better matches the engine hours. Then I proceed to check warranty history. In may of 2013 it had its last fmpp service at 97000kms, and every fmpp service almost exactly at 8000kms prior to this. Every service was at the same dealer in northern alberta. In the "black screen" servhist shows in may of 2014 it had a used car inspection/ provincial inspection at 133000kms, again at the same dealer in alberta. This is where it gets really shady. This guy bought it private sale, but all the paperwork shows it belonged to a BC numbered company. The guy he bought it from said it has belonged to his company in Vancouver since new, yet its entire history is in northern alberta, and a quick look under verifies it has been on the oil patch.(although the frame has been recently sprayed gloss black) We are fairly certain he bought it from a crooked used car dealer. I am going to google the bc numbered company tomorrow and see what it actually is. The question remains, how the hell did somebody modify the odometer? Would swapping a cluster do this? I thought the IC verified mileage against the pcm ,which appears to be correct at 138000 kms. The best part is, the guy that sold it was having this problem before he sold it, and even told the purchaser that the CEL had come on and he had the codes cleared. The buyer was uneasy so they took it to a Dealer and had it scanned yesterday, but all it had was a P1000. Clear distance is currently 700km, and Abbotsford is just under 700km away.

The biggest problem is if the eot is that high because the cooler is plugged, the egr cooler is being starved for coolant. The owner will find out soon enough how expensive it can get if he leaves it.

A semi related story (to the original thread that is, not the derail...) A local contractor here had his books audited by the taxman. He has 4 or 5 pieces of equipment, and 4 or 5 diesel trucks for his crew to bomb around in. The tax man noticed that he had never bought any clear fuel, long story short, he had to pay the road taxes on all the fuel he used over the past 5 years, as they had no way to determine how much went where. To the tune of $45,000.

The big problem was the last guy drilled it with the manifold on. That particular hole in the manifold is not a guide hole, so it is way oversized. Yes, a manifold re and re and the correct tools would have helped him ( and me) out a lot!

Quite a few faults on these will prevent regen but allow the truck to keep driving. It doesnt take very long to plug the dpf at all. I had one with an frp regulator concern that plugged the dpf within 200km of the initial fault and cel.

I see lots of broken manifold bolts. I fixed one a few weeks ago, left side rear lower bolt broken off at the head of the bolt. After removing the manifold and extracting the bolt I discovered that it was previously drilled offcenter and crooked. By the time I had the remaining peice of the original bolt out the hole was 7/16 oval. I drilled down the center of a 1/2 inch bolt and threaded it 8mm. Then I cut it off to make a threaded insert, drilled and threaded the hole in the head to 1/2unc. I ran the insert into the head on the end of an 8mm bolt with it locked in place with a nut (red loctite on the outer threads). I was then able to reinstall the head with a straight and centered bolt hole. I wish I had a camera at work that day. Saved the owner several grand by not having to change the head.

If the nuts come off the studs I run them back on and weld them to the stud. The heat makes the stud come right out. I have never touched the ac compressor or lines, or lifted an engine off the mounts. Only remove the starter.

Ouch!

I have changed a few of those pumps for noise and/ or inop as well.