cbriggs

I just did the block heater on the one I have here. Also found signs of a heater hose leak while I had it all apart. Heater hose has a part#, but its not in the system anywhere. I put a new oring in the snap to connect fitting that looked to be leaking, the oring that came out was super soft, and squashed almost square already. Fitting had absolutely no drag when pulling appart.

Lube tech called me to look at a leak, around rf of engine. I had a quick look and determined it was coming out of the vacuum hoses at the egr cooler bypass vacuum solenoid, and the large vacuum hose that leads over to the booster is oil soaked and swollen. I had absolutely no time to look into it today. Is it possible for a vacuum pump to leak oil into the vacuum sytem or is it pulling it from somewhere?

I had a 2005 in the other day, 370,000km on the odometer, beat to hell bush truck, hour meter at 9999.9 , who knows for how long. Only repairs truck has seen are a few injectors under warranty, 8 injectors at 250,000kms and an egr oil/ cooler at 300,000km. Also had an 04 in this morning for a coolant leak, 270,000kms, original egr cooler, orange hose was leaking.

Neither is the printed version.

I finally did one of these today, and I am very glad I had read this thread. Tackled it just like a 6.4, like was said above, I removed the secondary rad and a/c condensor, but left the shroud and all attatched to it fully asembled. I think I could actually say I prefer these to a 6.4 rad. It was on the same truck I had diaged a while ago, driver finally lost his cool and refused to top up his coolant anymore. He was leaking 2L per day ,and the fleet management company still wanted to leave it. They told us to source a jobber rad to save some $. Closest one was quebec and it was $2500.

Most of the plow wholesalers I have talked to charge a grand if you buy their plow.

Our dp got a pcm and harness from ford racing to run his 05 mustang powertrain standalone in a 67 mustang, even has the obd 2 connector under the dash.

I am currently installing a Western "wide out" plow with an ultra mount system on an 07 dodge, at home. Told the guy 10 ish hours @75/hr. Not too bad of a cash job. Just have to finish wiring it in the morning and it should roll out the door.

Throttle body injected small blocks used it for sure,(87 thru 95) and I think the early vortec small blocks ,also I seem to remember some late 90's car v-6s that had it.

If it has exhaust manifold gaskets a broken exhaust manifold bolt can do it too.

Holy crap, were +5 and pouring rain here, should be -10 with a foot of snow by now, strange winter.

I just saw an ssm today for fusion and zepher, Some vehicles may never clear a P1000 in high altitude locations.

The theory I was told in trade school (trying to remember back 13 or more years) is that if the accident was bad enough to kill the engine they wanted the fuel pump shut off, but if the engine stayed running they assumed the fuel system was intact. Kindof goofy logic, but seems to be less problematic than out inertia switches. Also works as an accidental failsafe, if you run the engine out of oil.

I believe they bypassed the oil press switch in start, but once in run it required oil pressure to keep the fuel pump running. GM's version of our inertia switch.

I work between you and vancouver, right on the trans canada hwy, in the mountains. I am now praying it doesnt end up on my doorstep.

I had an f-150 ecoboost do that, I also suspected a programmer, but had no proof.(even searched the truck looking for it) Had NO power, underboost code and P1000.

Quote: Correction statement: I replaced parts until the concern was fixed. I have has 2 pinpoint tests this week that read, replace said part#1, retest, if concern is still present replace said part #2. Example, 2011 f-350, wipers come on by themselves. Confirmed concern, ppt has you monitor the wiper switch pids in the steering column control module. If any pid reads on, when the switch is off, replace the switch, retest, if the concern is still present replace the sccm. On the bright side, it is a one step ppt for .3 . The sccm includes a switch, so if you end up replacing the sccm, you replace the switch twice.

Thats all fine and dandy, but what happens when the writers run out of available space to type my whole story into the ro? Lots of my big diesel claims they have to leave out punctuation and abreviate every available time to get the whole story in. I document and explain everything.

Anybody have any experience with windows 8? I just bought a new pc, and It came with a voucher for a free windows 8 upgrade. Not sure if I should get it or wait. 7 seems to work good.

I will post a pic of the distributor when I get a minute Aaron, it is mounted on the front of the camshaft, has 2 dist caps, one on either side, and a dual pole rotor, with a sliding contact to the coil in between them. The coil makes up the top of the distributor body. Crazy ass setup if you consider the technology of the time. I have used pertronix parts in other setups, but I cant find any for this one. His long term plan is to build a rat rod out of this thing. We have already sourced a full rolling chassis with corvette rear suspension, and I'm pushing him for a 6-71 blown big cube small block, or a supercharged 5.0l coyote powertrain, both with electronic trans and fuel injection. We'll see I guess. Right now just trying to get it running(just for fun), and replacing all the glass, interior, door seals etc.

Got my at home bobcat job all wrapped up, now in my shop at home I have a 1937 f-1 pickup. I will post pics. A buddy of mine bought it to build a rat rod, but its in too good of shape to butcher, so we may restore it. Currently trying to get it running. Leaks (rotten) gas from everything, and has no spark. Power to coil ok, points are functioning ok. Fixed a few bad plug wires but are otherwise ok. I suspect coil, but have never even seen, let alone wrenched on a flathead v-8. Parts and info availabiltiy is becomeing a concern. Any tips and tricks? (Jim? )

If the bfg's are under 50% tread toss em. Movement in any trac bar component or drag link component is a very likely cause. All of my oscilating wheel concerns have been repaired by replacing loose trac bar components or crap tires. (and the odd pitman arm coming loose, only on lifted trucks though)

Bay at work; 6.4l with well over 60" of crankcase pressure, relative compression looks good, manual 220psi on first hole, didnt check anymore after that, just finished an 05 f-150, rh manifold, front lower stud broke off 1/8" below head surface, also front diff pan, lower bjs and sway bar links on same unit. Bay at home; 1988 bobcat 742, repairing what I thought was a broken rr drive chain, opened up chaincase, found drive sproket broke off of center hub, parts rolling around damaged 3 of the 4 drive chains. 8 hours into it now and I'm almost ready to start buttoning it up.

I never have my camera at work when I need it. It belongs to the owner of our dealership, I'll work on some pictures.

1967 mustang gt 500, runs rough. Pops and backfires on hard accel. Car has an 05 mustang gt powertrain. Kind-of felt funny using the ids on a 67 stang.2 bad coils and a bent pin on bank 2 vct phaser, and away she goes. Man does it go too....