Matt Saunoras

Finally getting around to the front axle I've had all week. Scored a Dana 60 gauge tube off eBay for $40 so I ordered the one missing adapter off rotunda earlier in the week. I'll set that shim up with the tools and use my dummy side bearings for the carrier shims. Later on I'm going to post some info I found out about the different Dana 60 side bearings.

That black plastic piece of crap is a pain in the ass. A heat gun will be your friend for the cac connection. As for the elbow I just leave it on and rotate it up off the fan stator.

Our VCM 1 will lose communication after it warms up so it's basically unused anymore.

Brad pointed out in a previous post on how to ID the new cover in the AG kit vs the original cover. There's a small difference in the way it's cast.

No TSB or SSM but it's a known fact the regulator will boost fuel pressure at idle around 10-15 psi. The health of the HFCM will determine if its able to keep up with wot fuel consumption. I try to upsell the kit any time I am in one for injectors, coolers or any other major repair. I would definitely sell one for a keyhole gasket leaking

I hear you man, I spent all morning looking at a 99 7.3 for a stalls when it's raining out. Needless to say it's not raining today and spraying down the harnesses in the left front inner fender didn't show anything. Only code it set in memory was a P0344. Had to finally give up and ship it. It did have a Napa cam sensor so I threw a new gray one in under the recall. Also taped up the harness where it rubs the shock tower and left valvecover. Here's the results of the cluster fucks that currently reside here. The silver 6.0 was definitely a hard start after I replaced the starter (gotta wonder why it burned up in the first place), once it finally decided to not be so hydrolocked and run that's what evacuated the engine via tailpipe. The degas bottle would have doubled for a steam locomotive. The F-450 with the front pinion I suspected was bent does in fact have some screwed up shit. Funny all it was making was a clicking noise with the hubs locked in. It's also getting a fan clutch, primary belt tensioner and belt. Got another 6.0 F-550 getting dropped off tomorrow for a stud job, new heads and a fresh 5R110. I believe I'm going to install my first trans from the top. Also think this baby is going to get some new lifters since I'll be able to yank the rear cover.

The ball is a little rusty but it's not too bad. I'm not worried about the time it takes just wasting money in parts if I can't figure it out. I may just take it apart first and then make the decision. Buddy the precision kit 617 does exist and it isn't too expensive but I can't find mentioned anywhere that it fits a Ford.

.Remember to quote fuel filters and a blue spring upgrade too.

I see far more injectors fail internally causing combustion gas in the fuel rail rather than a failed copper washer. My guess is it's the pintle or the spring that seats it I go by the injector that starts missing first is the culprit, the others on that bank are being dry fired when they miss and they need replaced also. Don't forget to replace the banjo bolt on that side too

Anyone out there successfully attempted this? I've got a used shaft here that was replaced and scrapped by ESP and I believe the only thing wrong is the u-joints. The guy I work with says I shouldn't bother trying to replace the joints and its more trouble than its worth. Any thoughts? Obviously the parts catalog shows replacements. Looking at the thing I can't visualize how it's done.

Fixed the trans harness wires on the 6.4 F-450 that dropped the driveshaft. Drove it down the road and can hear a rotational clicking at slow speeds with the hubs locked in. Ran it up in the air with it in 4wd. The front pinion is bent, they put a new flange, driveshaft and t-case on it and the driveshaft still has a bad wobble. The clicking is coming from inside the front axle.

Mine get hammered, clearly beat up from being dropped, scratched etc. I never considered sending one in due to abuse

I use it as a shampoo to get that diesel tech scent all the ladies die for

I use a streamlight stylus pro all day every day. I go through one every few months.

The silver 6.0 someone cranked it until the starter burned up, so it needs a starter and then diag. The 6.4 next to it got all the front end work from earlier in the week, declined the fuel system but okay'd the dipstick tube, thermostats and belt tensioner, it left about 80lbs of dirt in my bay. The white 6.0 okay'd headgaskets, oil cooler, plus the hpo system upgrades. The 6.4 F-450 I'm standing on wiped the front driveshaft clean off last week. They put a used transfer case and shaft in it, tomorrow I need to fix the wires going to the tranny for multiple DTCs and check it for possible overheat.

Got a few to keep me busy.

Honestly the first thing I thought of when reading this was high pressure turbo. Yank the crossover and spin the compressor wheel, you can feel when the bearings are starting to coke up they will drag when side loaded a little bit. Also have a look at the banjo bolt where the oil feed enters the turbo. When it's getting hot they'll coke up too. When I see the oil drain o-ring hard as a rock and starting to leak I get suspicious too

Yes they definitely all have fittings if they weren't already replaced with a non-serviceable joint. I grease almost every truck that comes in here.

Looking at an 06 6.0 that definitely has a stuck turbo. Coolant bottle looks like a white crusty volcano. It's a fire truck and only has 19k miles on it.

The only Ford truck shop in the area shares Sterling and Isuzu and its a union shop. Nothing but problems come from there. Known as the laziest crooks around. They sell the hell out of trucks though and outfit the bodies in house.

I heard about this from a buddy of mine who does performance trannies. Heard it was a mid year 08 split. Is yours by chance an early 08?

Looked an 08 F-550 6.4 today. Needs front axle u-joints, entire drag link, trac bar balljoint and bushing, rear brakes, primary belt tensioner, oil dipstick tube and thermostats. All the same shit as when I looked at it one year and 20k miles ago!!! Only this time the DPF is clogged because it won't heat up and the wif light is on. It definitely sucked in some water, multiple contribution codes and wacked out fuel trims. Fucking gas well trash, this truck looks like it hasn't seen a dry road since the last time it left. Oh well, I'll write a $10k estimate on it. Hell someone already dumped a 6007 in it at one point.

The majority of what I see has polished cylinder walls. A good 3-4" bore micrometer will be your friend when looking at a 6.4. Taper and out of round specs are only .002-.003" if I remember correctly. I never have any problems seeing those out of spec.

I just heard about this.

Now that you mention it I have heard of performance tunes causing that code with the new strategy but I'd have to dig into it a little further to know anything more. You may want to have your customer e-mail or call their tuner and see if they know anything. The relative compression and short fuel trims are concerning to me, especially given the nature of the #2 cylinder. 9 out of 10 times I see a problem with #2 it is shortblock time. The other 1 time I switched an injector with #4 and the miss actually moved. If you have some time and diag hasn't already beat you to death I'd switch that injector with another cylinder and clear your HPFP adaptive tables. Check the rockers and valve train movement while your in there.