Matt Saunoras

I've got another set of 6.4 manifolds sitting outside that needs sold. Right now I'm getting ready to reseal a steering box on a 10 F-350 6.4. What's the deal with these boxes? NAPA can't even get one

Well you guys came through again. Did a #1 injector and shaved a lot of time off that repair. I never thought any of those alts could come out they way they did. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be getting the tensioners loose or the belts back on.

This is the pic I have. Original size straight from the PC.

Yeah I have one on my computer at home.

Those shoulder bolts suck. Does anyone have the hardware number for the normal bolts that originally dropped down from the top? I'm so damn tired of arguing with my parts guy about these bolts. Every time he gets me up-pipe bolts its the new kind.

Yeah I have noticed an electronic hum from the IPR that changes pitch when it is moved incrementally with IDS.

I was first told that bit of information by a diesel tech in another dealer, I actually never realized I was looking at different engine stickers all these years. In all the trucks I've run across it's held true to this day. I am not 100% positive on what requirements exactly will illumintate the check engine light but I was told in school that it's when a fault causes emissions to exceed 1.5 times the amount regulated by federal law. Now if a truck has non-california emissions it's obvious that the remaining 49 states have agreed on an emissions amount allowed, perhaps no EGR flow still allows these trucks to meet the emissions standard. We all know this one engine is used in several different frames.... pickup, cab and chassis, and econoline. All of which have different emissions standards. I believe the only blue engine sticker I've seen after 06 was in a F-550. Pickups are all red stickers after 2006.

I have seen a guy working on a 2004 unbolt the intake with the alternator/belt still attached and let the tension of the belt lift the rear of the intake/EGR cooler to access the cast iron pump cover. I very rarely see a 6.0 intake that isn't in need of a good cleaning so anytime I'm in the area of the EGR system I address it, same with the turbo, if it's off, I'm cleaning it.

For informational purposes only. Typically a blue engine sticker on the right valve cover of a 2005 will not set a check engine light. A red engine sticker indicates California emissions and will always set an insufficient EGR flow code for 05, 06, 07 and possibly years prior to that also. This is not set in stone however, there are atleast 100 different 6.0 calibrations/tear tags out there plus all the updates throughout the years. Each one with differences unknown to nearly everyone but the engineer who wrote the calibration.

I'm pretty sure it's 18 then go over them again. It's definitely not enough considering the bolt doesn't have a collar like a 6.0. 6.0 bolts have locking threads also if you've never noticed.

The more I do the more trucks come back! I just put manifolds on a 6.4 last month and it's back screeching like hell. I did them cab off and torqued every single damn exhaust bolt I could get a socket on. The 8 short bolts (4 each side towards the rear) all loosened up. The 2 rear bolts on the right side were the cause of the screeching. Tightened them all from underneath and we're back on the road again. I may be using more than 18 ft/lbs on future jobs, someone please advise if that is not the correct torque spec. I've also got a 6.7 that regens too frequently (nothing yet), a 6.7 for an EGT13, a 6.0 that has manifolds leaking cold causing an exhaust smell in the cab + both rear leafs are broke. Also I upsold EGT2 and 3 sensors on the one manifolds comeback. Of course the sensors came out no problem. Talk about a day full of exhaust concerns

You do not need to remove the intake or the egr cooler to access the HPOP on an 05+ F-series (excursion may be different depending on build date) What I do is remove the turbo, pedestal, and loosen the EGR cooler to up-pipe clamp, loosen one up-pipe to manifold bolt on each side and push the whole Y back to the firewall. This should give enough clearance to get the rear heat shield out without mangling it and the pump cover will come out fairly easily. Before you get too far go down below and take a peak up at the top of the rear cover on the right side. What you're looking for may be an STC that dislodged and has cracked the rear engine cover.

Any chance you can post a pic when you get the old one out. I've been dying to see a cracked branch tube!

I was thinking about oil pressure and initially thought the cap would be the first to fail under high pressure but maybe not. I'm not sure the exact temp but I believe the filter is bypassed until the oil reaches a certain temp. I believe there is an oil cooler bypass also correct? It'll take me 2 minutes to check the regulator, I'll do it first thing in the morning. edit - it's not a temperature, it's a pressure differential. A 25 PSI difference will allow oil to bypass the cooler. A 20 PSI difference will allow oil to bypass the filter. Obviously when the oil is very thick it is not going to flow through the filter or the cooler very easily.

Yes this truck does have a heater control valve. I always keep the heat on high while flushing along with keeping an eye on ECT and EOT. The water in this truck is running crystal clear right now so I'm going to reinstall my t-stat, do my final fill and drive it around some more.

Well the second cooler is in, simple green is done and the second vc-9 is almost done. Really not a whole lot came out with the simple green flush. I still don't know what happened exactly but I will check oil pressure tomorrow. The cooler looked fine and all gaskets/o-rings were perfect.

Have fun with that bumper haha, all the gas well trucks around here have those, I can't tell you how many I've had to remove to change a primary rad. Actually the last one I shortblocked was a welding rig that had some massive home-made vise/pipe chain deal that easily weighed 3-400lbs. I had one hell of a time removing/steadying that thing even using my rack arms. It stuck out a foot past the grille Needless to say the truck handled like a yacht.

Well the worst oil cooler failure I've ever seen is back. Same crap as before, a degas full of oil but not nearly as bad as last time. WIth only 300 miles since the repair I would hope it couldn't recreate the same volume. Now I spent the last half of the day trying to figure out which direction to go. Did I unknowingly let the truck go with oil still in the cooling system or does it actually need another cooler? I don't have any simple green on hand (picked more up tonight) so I pulled the bottle, cleaned it out, reinstalled and dumped some VC-9 in it. Eventually I got the water in the cooling system running clear again after a few more bottle cleanings and what not. The initial stuff I drained out was disgusting but I can't imagine where it was hiding had I left it in there to begin with. Now a few things left me wondering. First off I've decided it's getting an oil cooler, I can't deny the fact that I added 1 1/2 qts of oil to the crankcase to get back into the middle of the stick. It doesn't look like that much made it into the cooling system but where did it go? Nextly, the oil on the stick looks clean (like it was changed 300 miles ago) but the oil in my bottle looks exactly the same as it did the first time around. I've changed a lot of oil coolers and none before this one have ever returned to me. I am just having a hard time believing this is totally coincidental.

Really? Well it's a DRW gasser and it has a torqshift 6 so it must be an F-350 then. I put shift solenoids in a few years ago under warranty so I'm positive it's a 6 speed auto. I thought it was a F-550 but I must have it confused with a local towing companies F-550s.

There's a tire company right next to us that bought an 2011 F-550 6.2 when they first came out. I see the truck every day but I haven't worked on it in a year or so. It's gotta be close to 200k

I need 8 hours at least. 9 or 10 would be ideal but my mind won't let that happen unless it's the weekend and I can stop thinking about work for a while.

I haven't had any real steady diesel work as of late. Finished up studs/headgaskets on an 05 today. Also put a slave/clutch master assembly in it. The spring between the master and pedal assembly was in about 6 pieces causing about 3 inches of free travel. Common I suppose but really I have no idea.

Purposely omitted due to an onsite engineering change. Why does a 6.0 gpcm bracket need 4 nuts anyways?

how is the oil pan? that would give some more justice to removing the engine

Good stuff. I ordered 2 and the seller sent me 3. That'll make sure I really never need one.