lmorris

It's a regular cab, my hoist arms are too long to do a cab lift. It is also too heavy to lift it high enough to get some big stands under the cab. So cab off was not an option. With the EVAP core out of the way the job was quite easy. Doing the pan on the floor, I found, was easier on my arms when putting the bolts back in. The truck sat high enough for me to move around with ease under it.

2 ways, the upper injector body oring, the ones that seal the fuel system, may be leaking, or you have an injector leaking out the weap hole due to internal failure. Put some dye in the upper filter housing and run it for 15 minutes on high idle. Remove the valve covers look at each injector for signs of dye.

Go with "dumb ass", I get the same thing. So "dumb ass" fits nicely because they make themselves look like a "dumb ass". I come back with "Hey, It pays the bills, and I have more left over than you do each month...Idiot."

Failed to mention I am doing this in chasis with the cab on, on the floor. Oil pan is back on and everything looks good so far.

Have a real good look at the injector tip on #7. I bet it has a crack in it. If so it may have buggered the piston. Have a look at the glowplug as well, it may be damaged.

It be the law. Nothing comes into Canuckville with out getting the old French conversion for those silly East enders. Damn bill of rights......I kid..really...

6L that had the intake off for some high pressure system repairs, then started to rattle like nobodies business. Dropped #7 then stopped rattling. I pulled the head, wasn't me who did the original job, Found the piston had the crap beat out of it and all 4 valves bent. Surprisingly the head surface and cylinder wall both look fine. From the looks of the marks it seems like a valve keeper fell into the intake port and bounced around until finally embedding itself into the piston. It is getting a new piston and 4 valves, on us.

It loads at the same speed. Looks completely different. The reason we have to wait is everything has to be translated into french before we can use it.

Evacuate the A/C while removing stuff, Leave the shroud halves connected and leave everything attached to the shroud. Lift the shroud up while pulling the rad forward then remove the rad. Some guys don't even take the A/C condenser off, but I do. Have the A/C machine doing its job while it all goes back together.

The beta site loads the same as our current site, I don't notice any difference...YET.

So what's your secret Mike? Personally I can have a 6.4L rad done in just under 1 1/2 hours. Have done 2 6.7L rads and both took me over 2 1/2 hours.

Heads up to Canadian techs. When we switch over to the new style PTS site, depending on which way you "LINK" to oasis it may be tricky figuring out the multiple vehicle session aspect. If you access it through the "Service publications" link in the "Parts and Service" column you will have to go back and click that link for each new vehicle. If you access it through the"Protect" link in the Training column, then click "Etoolbox", this will get you to the page that allows the use of the "CTRL K" function to open new tabs for multiple sessions. Good luck to us all.

If you look at the design of the pump housing, a slinger on the inside does not make sense. The clearance between the crankshaft and the housing is your slinger. That type of shield has been added to almost all of the oil seals on the trucks that have any chance of coming in contact with dirt, Rear pinion seals and front t-case output seals for example. It is most likely their idea of keeping the dirt away from it. How well it works is yet to be determined.

Sounds like some previous cavitation damage to the front cover. I would definitely start there if all others checked out. If it is bad enough it can reduce coolant flow.

Slinger is a bad description. Maybe a shield is better. To stop the dirt from getting away from, I mean getting to, the sealing surface.....Nothing better that a little extra metal in front of a seal to pack in, I mean keep out the dirt....

Rad-scorpions too.

Not the one from the Fallout series. That baby has some punch, it would end up going through the engine block if you are not careful.

There is a new design front seal out now. Has a combination slinger/wear sleeve design. It comes with a stepped plastic installation spacer. There was no literature in the packaging as to the direction of said stepped spacer. Confirmation from hotline, the step with the dots faces the seal. Dots to dots they say.

You must have jinxed it because the site seems to be down.

Bet that was the easiest transmission he ever lined up..

They are. Just 1 more socket I had to to go dig out of my collection of sockets I didn't think I would ever use.

Read the 5th post in this thread. It's out there, but no definitive yes or no. Just a possibility. I realize not every engine anyone "designs" goes into production, but you never know. If the Euro-diesel won't work, there must be one in the works.

2010 F350, 184,790 KMS. Retail high pressure pump for P0088, to quote Micheal, cha-ching. Plus rear pads, rotors, seals and a caliper mount.

So the question is raised once more. What diesel engine do we think is going into this? Any rumors? I still wonder if the 5L diesel rumor is true.

I still don't like that door window. Our owner saw this 5 cyl. diesel in some Rangers over in Greece, he says they are getting upwards of 50 mpg. He foresees some big sales numbers if they infact come with that engine.