YukonTyler

Looks like a Subaru on steroids

I assume that's a brand of aftermarket warranty? If so then my issue isn't with those products - at least they pay retail labour rates (while sometimes fighting to install used parts). My complaint is being paid Ford SLTS on something that's only a stone's throw from the scrap yard.

Thank ya sir. I'm with you on the daily driver thing, but I still don't want to fuel it. I keep a $1000 2009 Kia Rio as my daily commuter. $90/month in gasoline - I absolutely love that car.

Wifey and I are expecting our first. With that news came the requisite question, "is the truck big enough?" Obviously the answer was no. We happened to be in Edmonton last weekend grabbing equipment for the farm and we drove past this unit ... 2012 F350 XLT .... DRW, 4x4, 6.2, 85 000 clicks with 15 000 km/17 month of powertrain remaining. She was a work truck but seems to have been cared for - no leaks, well washed underneath, 6 new tires, 820s installed instead of a Fram unit and an air filter that looks like it has been changed at least a couple times. Headed back down this weekend to pick her up. Very excited for this one. The crew cab is going to be great for car seats and it'll be easier to load the truck camper not having to get it exact between the bed rails - 3 inches of play on each side instead of 1/4" on each side. The beacon and the reverse alarm will have to go ASAP. I've missed having a flat deck, too. I'm yet to tear into a 6.2 past a valve cover. I hope that trend continues. The only negative is 3.73 gears ..... would have loved 4.30s

Yup. I once put ~7 liters of 5w20 into a 6.8 6006 assy which I later found out came shipped with oil in it. I spent more time that I care to admit chasing that particular rough idle.

A 2005 with ESP? It boggles the mind. Have fun with that one. MT is your friend.

I know it's overkill, but longblock this thing all day long. If not you are going to end up married to it: - phasers - tensioners - solenoids - cam journals - crank bearings - crank endplay/thrust bearing - plugged up oil screens Take your pick .... you may have one as your issue or multiple and it's not cheap if you're wrong.

That F150 I called turbos on was declined. They came and drove off with it against our recommendation. 100 km later it blew the left side turbo, puked oil all over the place and the driver ran it 'til the 3.5 locked up. They came back upset .... ha

neat video ..... right up there with 'Around the Corner' https://youtu.be/yYAw79386WI

- 2013 F150 3.5 for both turbos at 116 000 km. Four oil changes on record, and it has already had a warranty set of timing chains and a warranty long block. This time it is finally retail. - 2013 F150 5.0 with 167 000 km. 70 psi on cylinder 4 and 100 on cylinder 8. Quoted 2 heads. Fleet company wants a quote on a used engine. Ugh. Worst part is we have a factory 5.0 sitting in parts due to an ordering error. They priced it at cost + 10% just to get rid of the thing and the fleet still wants used junk over new heads or a 6006. - 2013 1.6 Escape for a cracked head

I got a couple of the new kits by accident. We stock the 'old' seal, but when additional parts are required to be ordered in to complete a repair we also order in replacement stocked parts so as not to deplete our inventory. Not long ago I did two knuckles and got the new kits as part of the deal. They're slick - everything in one package, and they're also a fair bit cheaper on the retail side of things. When replacing knuckles that's not a huge deal, but on a regular reseal for ESOF it makes selling the job that much easier.

- 2015 F550 w/ 8000 km for rear pads, rotors, calipers, backing plates, anchor plates, wheel seals ... mud isn't nice to play in, kids - 2013 Escape 1.6 leaking oil from the HPFP mounting plate - 2008 F350 with a bad hydroboost

- 4 (!!) 6.2 F250s for slow to fill. waiting on parts. - 2013 1.6 Escape for a 13S12, a turbocharger, PTU seal and axle seal - 2012 F150 for a rear axle housing (thrust angle and rear end toe & camber out to lunch), buddy thought it was a bogger, rakes all around and cats - F550 6.8 forest fire rig, wire up electric hose reals, electric start on water pumps etc and most important, - wifey's 2006 Rav4 4-cylinder is throwing lean codes/low signal codes for the front o2

Had an odd one today. 2013 F150 with a 5.0. RO is written up as 'inspect for knocking from the AC compressor'. Interesting. At idle with no AC clutch engagement there is a definite knock from the right front of the engine. Engage the AC and the knock is minimized - load related. I pulled both front accessory belts, ran the engine and confirmed that the noise is related to the belt drive. With the belts off I felt all of the pulley bearings - the idler on the AC drive felt poor so I replaced it. No change. At this point I can still hear the knocking from the tensioner and idler pulley mounting bolts. Replaced the tensioner. No change. Also, there is no knocking from the compressor itself. At this point I abandoned logic and began cancelling cylinders. No change. I devised theories about the timing drive components making noise under load and resonating through the front cover. Then I called a colleague over. He said that he has had two other Coyotes with this noise - root cause is tiny, tiny rocks wedged between the ribs of the belt. I pulled off both belts, cleaned ~50 tiny rocks from the ribs, reinstalled and quiet as a mouse. That was a first.

Sounds like a nice day! Cold temps mean a clear sky and no snow. Dress warm! All the same -40 C/F is the magic spot. When you reach temps where propane struggles to vapourize you're pretty likely to have some diesel fuel turning into a solid. I used to hate firing my 6.4 at those temps - even letting it run overnight I still worried about fuel gelling and running lean. My first winter in the Yukon I had a 2007 B4000 and I rented a room in a house with a heated shop. My Mazda slept in the shop. I remember it hitting ~45 below one night, starting the truck in the shop and letting it warm, and then having the steering hydraulics freeze 5 minutes AFTER leaving the shop. haha ... Using the clutch was also ill-advised. While it never happened to me personally I did repair a number of slaves after cold snaps.

I saw a hotline reply about needing to replace the injectors on the affected back. Apparently they get restricted and lean out the cylinders which in turn wrecks the valves. Not too sure why just the rear injectors would lean out. I'm not shooting the messenger - just not sold on the idea is all. Pulled the head (could not reassemble - incorrect parts supplied) and found that like other ones I've done it's only the rear intake valve on the rear cylinder of the bank. I wonder if there's lack of fuel to the rear injectors as opposed to a restriction? Maybe a reflash to give the injectors on 4 and 8 a little more on time would help? This is the fourth of fifth one that I've done and that represents about 40% of all that we've done in our shop. I feel like if injectors is the fix then Ford will release a TSB on the matter. I'm at the point where I'm not contacting hotline for this concern - kind of a been there done that sort of feeling. Somewhat related. Pulled the cab on this thing at the end of the day on Friday. Went in on my day off - Saturday - to do the head and put it back together. When I opened the box for the new head Saturday morning I found the right side head and gasket ordered instead of the left. Not wanting to waste a day on Monday I decided to make a Saturday drive to Grande Prairie since my parts person located a left side head and gasket at the dealers there. Monday morning I open the head gasket 'box' to find a right side gasket for a reman engine. She ordered the wrong gasket. Again. Parts is killing me. Since the cab is off I worked outside all day. Not happy.

- 12 F150 5.0, rough idle and a P0308 due to intake valves, getting a cylinder head - 14 Explorer with 90 000 km, no communication with the ICAN network, getting a cluster - 13 F350 with 20 000 km, complaint of grinding shifting into 4x4 high on the fly, assumed it was the synchro. tore it down to find large metal chunks from the clutch everywhere. getting a new t-case - 13 Edge which reeks of gear oil in the cab. replaced a leaking l/front axle seal (tranny fluid leak) but of course it still smells and there are no other leaks evident. there is a thread on the PTS message board about replacing the PTU, so considering it's the only part on the front of the car containing gear oil I'll take a chance on it.

CTRL + ALT + PRINT SCREEN When those are pressed at the same time (and print screen needs the 'function' key pressed too, if it's a Toughbook) it saves a 'copy' of the screen capture to the clipboard. Hop to MS Paint - or your imaging program of choice - and 'paste'. The screen capture will display and you can save the image as you please. Edit: Sorry to duplicate Brad's instructions

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that the cams will retard at default. The locking pin should get them neutral when not commanded on, and then when they are phased it's to advance. Spec was 18+ psi once upon a time. Then it got lowered to 15 after the fact ... I also like to find a baseline hot oil pressure reading before starting anything, but even so you're just getting pressure at the bottom end and there's too many places for pressure to drop on its way to the top. And of course it's the top end that requires all the darn pressure. Between the bottom end (seen many with bad mains and walking cranks due to thrust bearings), band aid revised solenoids, tensioners, scored cams, plugged galleys and plugged screens in the bodies you never know how many areas are going to be bad. What repairs one will seldom repair another with the exact same symptoms. Drill out the end of an 820 filter and fit it with a nice metal valve stem off of an HD rig. It's much easier than getting at the pressure switch, and this way you can take the pressure of a hot truck without burning yourself. I sometimes feel like it's not the best practice, but when I hear these things coming in with that deep knocking sound and I often suggest a retail long block. They come to you when they barely run cold let alone hot, they haven't seen spark plugs changed in years and they have a big orange oil filter on the bottom which is caked with mud. On many to diag them requires repairing them, and when you can't say for certain if phasers, solenoids and tensioners will do the trick it's a tough job to sell. And if you're wrong then you're married to it. Not fun.

The next time I have one to yank out I'll snap a picture. Otherwise I'll just get a pic of it on the shelf.

Our bracket for the modular engines took a walk long before I came to Peace River. Just recently one of the techs welded one up and it works like the dickens. It uses 4 M6 bolts in the intake manifold holes on each side (8 total). I was skeptical at first but it's the bee's knees. Only down side is it doesn't 'stretch' like the Rotunda one, so when doing a V10 it's just perched in the middle which makes it slightly more tippy. Good thing we're not doing as many six eights these days.

That is what I do... using a 5'prybar that I borrow from a co-worker. I like those stud tools too though but never bought one. I don't see that as getting the stuck ones out, but if it's working for you than more power to you. I got the first one that my Snap-on dealer got in. He gave it to me to try and I refused to give it back. I also use the big pry bar. Stuck ones get a couple taps with the air hammer and a chisel bit, or while applying pressure with the pry bar an apprentice gets to have at the axle/u-joint with a 3lb hammer.

It's a pain in the rear. I've done it twice, and when the labour bill approached the parts bill on a new shaft it's easily worth the extra bit of cash, time saved and warranty that comes with the new shaft. As stated above, if the ball and socket is hooped then it's a write off anyway. The two I've done were u-joints only. No more.

That's only a little bit worse than one I dealt with yesterday. Once I got the hub out with a zip gun it took me prying on the axle shaft where it protrudes from the dust seal while an apprentice massaged the axle/u-joint with a heavy sledge. Fun times! Interesting that you remove the speed sensor from the hub as opposed to pulling out the 3 bolts, 2 clips and releasing it from the connector. I'm always worried that the darn thing will snap off on its way out - but maybe that's my time spent our east showing itself. How are you guys doing down there? Still busy? Somehow in Peace River we're still booking about 1.5 weeks in advance.

I just dab a little diesel fuel behind each ear and my wife goes nuts. And to think I've been using fric mod this whole time