YukonTyler

They should train without issue out in the open. Make sure they are the correct frequency - 315 MHz I think.

- 2013 F150 3.5 for a water pump - 2012 F350 6.2 for a serpentine belt tensioner worn through the front cover and an abs module - 2015 F550 6.7 with a blown cold side cac tube and what might turn out to be a plugged DPF

our tranny guy uses a ratchet strap slung through a front tow hook to the bellhousing bolt holes ..... seems to work just dandy. lots of room that way for the cherry picker. i liked it so much that i now do the same for the odd time i do a pump or such on a 6r80. and speaking of transmissions, who decided it was a good idea to weld the crossmember (aft of the t-case) to the frame on the new f150s.

I was once told to hold the chain straight out (on its side) and look at the deflection. Sounds like yours has quite a bit of slack. One of the last ones I tore down for a similar noise made me scratch my head a bit. When I got into it I didn't find a thing wrong, but the symptom was quite apparent: harsh skipping/snapping in 4-high under load while travelling straight on pavement. Put it all back together and promptly went about measuring tires. I found 4/32 difference between front and back on a set of 32x12.5s. A quick road test with a set of take-offs proved it all good.

I keep a known good SCCM with a good switch on hand in my box. It's quite common.

- 11 Escape with ESP ..... rear main leaking, oil pan leaking, ptu leaking, rear axle leaking - 15 Explorer .... rear main leaking, PTU leaking from the intermediate shaft seal. converter rusted stuck on the flexplate at the pilot area, buggered up the bushing and possibly the pump

- 11 Edge for a rear diff vent, plugs, tranny service, PTU rear output seal - lots of prepaid oil changes - work was denied on a retail 5.0 cyl head, so swap accessories from the bad unit to a similar good unit. brakes all around on the good unit, too anything right now to make a pay cheque

Our shop actually pays to have scrap iron/aluminum/lead etc etc hauled away. I blatantly asked the powers that be prior to taking anything - zero fvcks were given.

The fitting is held on the inside by a nut and lock washer. Pretty slick.

I like this idea about the camshafts out of time. You can also scope the cam signals - the locator pulse should be completely opposite each other. When you put in Motorcraft phasers if you did them with the poly holding tool then you would have retained any previously incorrect timing. I also like checking base oil pressure. Drill the top of an 820s filter and install a fitting to work with your gauge of choice - much nicer than going for the oil switch threads.

I took in $770 the other day from our scrap. For whatever reason we put batteries/rads/DPFs out in the general metal bin where the scrap guys come and feast. I figure nuts to that so I scoop it when I see a decent pile. I bet that I pull in north of $2000/year with next to minimal effort.

Seems very common on the 6.2.

Pickings are slim - 3 prepaid services this morning - r/front strut mount on a 15 Explorer - remote access system on a 15 Explorer - diag'd a 14 Focus for cam/crank correlation codes, found exhaust -20 degrees and intake -15 with vct solenoids unplugged. waiting on timing parts and clutch parts for a chatter on accel, too.

Late to the party, but I've done the same thing. A local guy here gave me a used PCM as an attempt to repair his misfire on an 09 Exped. I promised very little but was able to get it to run without much difficulty. A long block later fixed his low oil pressure and misfire.

Looks just like me when I do heads on 5 liters.

I know that some of this vintage had the high pressure hose (pump to hydroboost) come apart internally where the line unions near the firewall/booster. When you pull the union fittings apart it will look like there is a clear, plastic straw/tube all loose internal to the line. Might be worth a look.

I would have spun the ball out of the draw bar along with an offer to reinstall the ball on a replacement.

- 2014 Fiesta for a clutch - 1999 Escort for a misfire. it got kicked around the shop getting plugs and wires in the process before hitting my bay - no compression on cyl 4 and a leakdown test has it all coming out the oil fill. - 2015 F150 for a bad heater core? maybe? heat on the right side of the cabin but nothing on the left, not dual zone climate control.

It warmed up to the freezing mark today so I took advantage of the weather and did the first service on my tractor ........ 40 liters of Chevron TDH 1000 (on sale for $58/20 liters at the local UFA), 7 liters of stockpiled Motorcraft 75w140, 10 liters of stockpiled 5w40 Chevron Delo and $230 for an oil filter, pump filter, hydro filter, fuel filter and air filter. I also rigged up my new used slip tank. No more hoisting 5 gallon jugs up to shoulder height! It got drained, flushed with clean diesel and then rigged with a new filter. I ran the fresh fuel through a coffee filter and got some pretty darn good results.

- 2014 F150 3.7 will not shift from 4hi to 4low ..... pulled it apart and took chunks of bearing out of the planetary - 2014 F350 6.7 will not shift into 4hi .... open wire between C1010 at the l/front fender and the shift motor other than that there's precious little ... I feel like my pay cheque is going to be made up of oil changes and license lamp pigtails.

There might be some sitting beside my box from the last long block I put in ...... nobody from parts or service is yet to get mad at me and it's going on at least a month.

ignition cylinder .... my own slang i suppose?

After being dead-slow for the better part of a month things actually picked up a few days prior to Christmas - 2012 F150 5.0 came in for a leaking water pump, couldn't help but notice the shake at idle, check engine light and P0304. needs a cyl head - 2009 Escape for an intermediate shaft and a PTU reseal - 2014 F150 5.0 for a water pump and an axle seal - 2012 RCMP F150 5.0 for a front pinion seal, metal on metal brakes, a loose rear pinion, leaking bulkhead connector - 2002 7.3 for an ignition barrel and a starter beats doing remote starters, mud flaps and oil changes trying to squeak out a pay cheque

Any big changes for cab removal on the 15s compared to the old body style?

other than the banks turbo kit regearing is the first thing that comes to mind. if it's a 2wd then it might be the most economical, too.