YukonTyler

Indeed. Spent some years at Subaru/Kia and their wiring diagrams were maddening.

To close this out, PCM fixed it after first installing a new alternator. Highly suspect that a diode physically let go in the regulator when the alternator was removed for the initial repair and on first startup it sent a healthy dose of current to the PCM's GENCOM driver.

Got it. A colleague saved my bacon and pulled out a spare pin which comes from the remote start hood pin switch kits. Perfect match and fit like a glove. Also, newer models have terminal part numbers listed on the 'connector view' section of some connectors. I was able to cross-reference the 2011 F150 3.5 turbo with a newer model (same PCM connector). 8WA you nailed it with your part number. Nice digging!

30k? Time to trade it in, not service it.

Short version: I need a small female pin for PCM connector C1551B on a 2011 F150. Where oh where can I find one? I have gone through all of my scrap harnesses and can't find a matching female terminal. Long version: I have a nightmare little F150 in my bay. 2011 Ecoboost came in for AWA (we have an aversion to making money) phasers and main timing chain replacement due to a startup rattle after cold soak. I took the cab off and completed the repair. Started the thing up and found it to have a P0620 and a charging system warning illuminated. I figured that I pinched a wire during the repair and checked continuity on GENMON and GENCOM between the PCM and the generator - all good. I then load tested those two circuits, plus the 12v sense pin at the generator - all good. Also checked for shorts together, shorts to power and shorts to ground - all good. At this point I put a NAPA alternator in it (Motorcraft backordered). No change. Bummer. I determined that sometime during my repair the PCM took a dive. To do this I took a known good 2011 F150 off the lot and connected its GENMON and GENCOM PCM circuits via 30' leads to my faulty truck's GENMON and GENCOM circuits at its generator C102A. Essentially I setup the known good PCM to run the faulty truck's alternator and circuitry. I ran both trucks and my GENMON and GENCOM pids both read 'no fault' on the good truck. Reverse the test - faulty truck's PCM running the good truck's alternator - and I see my GENCOM pid faulted on the failed truck. My SM wanted pin fit checked (despite C1551B and C102A never being disconnected during the initial repair). In the process of 'tightening' then GENCOM female terminal I damaged it. I got the pin out but I now need a replacement.

I did a 'cluster goes dead' the other day. 2011 F150 lost all gauges and displayed 'shift to park' in the message center while in the middle of a road test. Once back in the bay it presented as a no crank no start. Found no PCM communication due to the HS CAN being pulled down. In the end I found an aftermarket tracking device (fleet truck) tied into the MS CAN wiring up under the dash near the DLC as the culprit. Perhaps you also have an intermittent network issue?

Wtf is a crown and pinion? A great example of subtle cultural differences ; ) ...... You know when work is done for the day I love sitting back on the chesterfield and eating some Kraft Dinner while sipping on a Caesar.

- Torqueshift on a 6.2 F250 with a flare on the 3 to 4 upshift when cold, misses 4th completely after reaching temp. fluid burnt - unit is coming out. - 2007 Mark LT for both exhaust manifolds, a p/s pressure line and a rear crown and pinion

- both exhaust manifolds on a 2011 6.2 super duty - l/side head gasket leaking oil on a 2011 Exped, going back together now

Yes, the fittings are available separately. I often preemptively change them out when the turbo comes out to do manifolds. I've been bitten a couple times trying to reuse the old fittings, and seeing that a couple of them are hard to access I find it much easier to make them fresh on the bench. No idea on the shopping cart. Nice things like that usually show up a couple years later in Canada. Each turbo needs - the gasket to the manifold - the gasket between the turbo and the doughnut - three new bolts to the manifold - new oil line gasket - new studs for the doughnut - new nuts to the catalyst pipe - coolant - engine oil

6006 and be done with it. the oil light is the kiss of death - the damage is already done.

I have seen bad VCT solenoids cause this when they are mechanically stuck. The seized/blocked spool valve continually sends oil in one direction which skews the timing. It might be worth a quick look to pull your solenoid on bank 1 and check its screens.

2003 F150, 360 000 km, 5 speed 4x4 with a 4.2, XL reg cab - rear prop shaft u-joint and double cardan joints - rear ring and pinion - 2 front tires - fan clutch (snapped in half), an idler and a belt - new exhaust (old aftermarket one rotted away, welded in a new glasspack to make it high perf) I'm unsure of what I'm going to do with my newfound Thrush sticker. I can't believe I'm working on this thing at this shop. $$

Phaser rattle I typically see as one bank completely falling on its face and not just a valvetrain noise local to one cylinder. It should be pretty easy on a power balance screen and using VCT error pids to confirm faulty phase shifting or just a cam/follower issue. The complaint is noise at operating temp, which is almost always going to be cam phasing. Sorry to say, but at this point for triton engines with an advanced case of 'phaser knock' they usually get quoted out with a 6006 assy. Chasing the source of low oil pressure to the heads is never fun, especially when most of the time you're dealing with a combination of bad tensioners, chains, phasers, solenoids, cams, heads and sometimes even lash adjusters and the bottom end. There's nothing worse than slapping in phasers and solenoids and six months later is comes back in rattling worse than it was in the first place. It may seem like over repair, but they tend to not come back compared to the piecemeal approach. I have no experience with the lockout kits. I've looked into them (thought about buying a used 3 valve, went with a used low mileage 2003 2 valve instead) but I've never installed one. Keep in mind that you'll have to install a chip in addition to the lockout itself. Conversely, as long as the solenoids are not mechanically faulty and will remain at 'neutral' then you can simply unplug the solenoids. Most customers who do not want to sink any more money into things typically don't mind the CEL provided that the ticking/driveability goes away.

- Dana 80 let go and took out its ring, pinion and both side gears on a 15 6.7 dually - Clockspring on a 2016 Explorer - Canister and an FTP sensor/line, r/rear door handle on an 11 Fusion - Right side cylinder head on a 12 F150 5.0, if I get the go ahead

Plus the 6.2 is practically bullet proof. So that helps.

Harness was that messed up? I must of looked at the pics wrong cause it looked to me like corrosion by the trailer control module and a couple melted wires. It was not only melted there. It was "green deathed" through multiple areas under the driver's seat, not to mention one ground circuit in particular was melted completely down to the metal strands through the entire harness all the way up the area under the dash. psh. it's just a ground - doesn't need insulation anyway ; ) that harness swap doesn't look enjoyable - right up there with the main harness i did in the the Edge aquarium edition circa 2016.

OTC 6667

Yes to the MIL .... P0451 most commonly. I'm yet to see one cause audible complaints. Any chance you have a faulty tank vent? When it's thumping will the noise subside when the easy fuel lid is opened to vent the tank?

Not sure how many of y'all are replacing these, but I'm seeing quite a few coming in with FTP reading full vacuum which fails to bleed up via the purge (koeo) or the vent. Canisters are plugged solid. Pull the three nuts for the canister first. Then instead of dropping the rear prop shaft and the tank, pull four bolts for the rear sub frame and the bolt for the bottom of each shock absorber. Lower the cradle on a tranny jack and have at it. Takes ~45 minutes which sure beats pulling the shaft, tank and heat shield for access. I claim 12650D 12650DX1 12650D45 12650D81, 9002A to drop the tank and MT 0.3 for base 9D653, total 4.3.

Did it have any to start with?

Re: Plugs 70 k ago. It likely needs plugs and coil boots again. Would not be surprised if you see carbon tracking. As you said, read your primary side on the scope and this should be quite evident. Also, not sure of your location but for us winter time is our dry season. There isn't enough humidity in the air to cause any moisture buildup in the CAC. Moreover, whatever water might be in the CAC is frozen now, anyway.

Well isn't that fancy. I hope that this makes its way north of the border, because what I don't enjoy is sorting through 10 different pages of the shop manual in an attempt to be sure that I ordered all of the misc parts for a repair.

at the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, what exactly are you talking about? i imagine it's something other than HVBom of PACO.

They're not too bad - did one about a month ago for an internal open in the wastegate (seemed silly that you couldn't get that component separately. No need to pull the subframe. Needs to go out the bottom as you'll never get one of the 8 mm bolts out which holds the turbo to the catalyst. Make sure you order those bolts - they will likely break. PTU removal is required to get to those bolts, too - just remove the dog bone and have a helper roll the engine toward the rad to aid removal.Otherwise, I leave the catalyst in place - no need to drop the whole exhaust. Rear prop shaft stays put too - just unbolt from the PTU. PTU/bracket removal will require the cowl to come off and some of the air intake plumbing to be removed, but all that stuff comes off pretty easily. With that junk off there are some upper bolts which are easily accessed. I also yard the battery and tray in order to disconnect the small 8 mm bolt on the rear of the block which holds the left side turbo coolant line.