YukonTyler

Oh boy. Steel bars shot into the ceiling is impressive. It makes the garbage can I set on fire the other day look like a regular walk in the park! (I did a front cover reseal on a 3.7 in the morning. Somewhere around 9 am I cleaned the thing with brake cleaner over the garbage. At the end of the day around 4 or 5 I was cutting a rusted u-joint out of a prop shaft with the torches and shot some sparks over the top of the bench toward the can ... fun times!)

So how do you get it out without moving the degas bottle? The one I am doing doesn't clear the booster when it hits the degas bottle. Kind of like doing a starter on a 6.7 - it just slides out a certain way. Generally I do it with one hand easing the degas bottle toward the headlamp, and at the same time I sIide the caster cyl out of the booster. Once the bore is out ot of the booster the cylinder gets tilted on an angle and I walk it off of the studs - usually left followed by right. Installation is opposite of removal.

I did one like that prior to parts being available. Service support wanted pictures of the booster and the whole nine yards. It wasn't a money making proposition, and that's why I have no ill feelings toward slamming out master cylinders in 0.2 : )

Those master cyl recalls are gravy train. Pull two nuts, the two lines, the brake fluid level sensor pigtail and remove the master. Install new cylinder keeping the rubber plugs in. Fill with DOT4. Remove the rearward plug and watch as the air bubbles pass through the leaking fluid. When the bubbles stop install that line. Then do the same for the forward line. Pedal is hard as a rock each and every time - total time 0.2. First couple times doing it that way I did a traditional bleed just to be sure - no air comes out and the system is good.

We have one of those napa kits for repairing the plastic lines. I wonder if a guy was to cut out an ~8 inch section and use the gun in the kit to put Ford-style quick connect fittings on the cut ends. Then you could quickly snap in a Motorcraft filter from right off the shelf.

I dropped the tank on one truck - spotless. However, there is a ton of debris in the 'reservoir' of the pump module. The pump module has a check valve as the inlet to its reservoir. Once debris gets in it cannot get out. In essence the fuel pump module becomes one big vacuum cleaner for the tank. Moreover, the sock/inlet for the fuel pump is oriented right to the bottom so it sucks directly from the debris.The sock was full in this specific location. I then took apart/destroyed the pump module in order to get to the lifetime filter. It was in poor condition. 12 000 km on the truck I pulled the tank on with 250 hrs. 30 000 on the other one with 1300 hrs. That is out of the rail on the Shell unit. Filter internal to the fuel pump module on Nalco Champion. Sock on Nalco Champion. FP module reservoir on Nalco Champion. A new pump, rail and eight injectors has each truck repaired and working properly. This one was fun. When a guy thinks fuel debris plugging eight injectors he usually has a diesel on his mind and not a gas job.

Looks like I'm on the right track. Tons of debris suspended in the fuel came out of the rail, and that's without trying to flush anything out. I also have another one with an identical concern. It, too, has dirt/debris in the fuel sample I pumped from the tank. I have a rail and eight injectors on order for the first unit. I anticipate that will take care of things.

I got another one like this today (and potentially another one right behind it waiting outside). - Towed in cranks no start. No codes CMDTC or KOEO. - Verified fuel to the rail. Fuel quality looks okay, not full of water and it burns on the floor. FF_INF 9.8%. Long and short trims near 0. - Noted a very dirty engine air filter and a dirty MAF. Went down the MAF path. Installed a known good sensor and a new engine air filter. Disconnected battery terminals and shorted them together over the lunch hour. Come back to a reset FF_INF at zero. Crank no start remains - Pulled a plug - dry as a bone (had suspected possibly flooded). - 1/2 can of brake cleaner down the intake and it fires up, runs rough for 10 minutes and gradually clears. Drive it for 70 uneventful kilometers at highway speed. FF relearns at 11% and my trims settle back in toward zero. Fuel system monitor passes. Shut the truck off and immediately start it again with no issue. At this point I put it on the rack to diag some aux lamps inop and to do an oil change. It is in the air for 45 minutes and when put back down it is again a crank no start. - Starts with brake cleaner again. Runs very rough and does not want to clear. At idle misses on cyl 1, 4 and sometimes 7. At half throttle to full throttle it levels out and runs reasonably well. - Backprobe injector 1, install a noid light and verify it is firing electrically. Pull a plug on cyl 1 and see it is dry. This truck is a Shell unit and is very dirty, just like the last one which belonged to Nalco Champion. Our working theory: Sand/sediment in the tank (small amounts seen in fuel sample) migrates up the lines (no longer filtered) and into the rail. In the returnless system it cannot return back to the tank and instead gets stuck in the rail. The sand settles atop the injectors in the rail once the truck is off for more than a half hour. At idle fuel pressure in the rail is low and the fuel cannot find its way through the debris and out the injectors. At throttle fuel pressure ramps up and is able to punch some fuel through the blockages. Tomorrow morning I am going to do my best to pull the rail in a clean fashion and without spilling too much fuel. I want to flush the rail and injectors over some coffee filters and see what comes out of this thing. I suspect that 8 injectors and a rail will take care of the issue. Pretty interesting stuff!

Related to that, I've seen small rocks in the A/C belt (lodged between the ribs) cause an intermittent knocking noise. The intensity of the noise is affected by the state of the clutch.

In the end we suspected bad fuel which caused misfires and set the FF_INF out of sorts. I think that the erroneous UEGO readings lead down the garden path. Final fix wound up being fresh fuel, dump the fuel in the rail, KAM reset and new plugs. That got it running in closed loop which then let the FF learn. All was well at that point.

ever since you estimated that i could perform my own work i've had this funny vibration ...

Is your first digit a zero? If so try removing it.

Half way through the morning I come up for a rubbing/howling noise from a 2015 3.5 turbo F150. I road test for a moment and find that when turning right (at idle, vehicle speed ~10 km/h) there is a definite howl from the left front. Engage 4x4 and the noise disappears. I confirm this a few times, come back to the shop and slam dunk the l/front hub for bad needle bearings which support the CV axle. Prior to installing the hub - during the process of hoisting the truck - one of our fifth year apprentices wanders over and reports that he drove the truck earlier and suggested that a journeyman take the RO. He confirmed the howling noise on his road test, and confirmed that it exhibited the noise at idle. I then asked him what he thought it might be. He reported "turbo flutter at idle" - specifically from the right side turbo. Turbo noise. At idle. Face palm. This is a 33 year old apprentice who has been at our store for 5+ years. Zero web courses done. Zero training completed. Next to zero aptitude. Somehow he is paid ~90% of my hourly rate. Only somewhat related, later in the day the police arrive at the dealership. Turns out that this same apprentice and his step-brother got into a dust up over the weekend. The apprentice is pressing charges. His step brother happens to be an (idiot) journeyman and happens to work in the bay next to him. I can hear the banjos playing in my head right now. I don't know if it's in the water or whatnot, but I've got to get the hell out of here. Leon are you guys hiring? haha

Disconnect negative battery and ohm out your HS CAN across the DLC. 60 ohms is what you're after - get that reading and you're correctly seeing both terminating resistors on the network. If you read 120 then (in your circumstance) expect to find either an open HS CAN circuit or a bum PCM. My money is on finding a broken wire. It is almost always a broken wire.

Agreed - this is what I was inferring. In my experience I've seen phantom wrench lights (no codes) and ABS coding issues.

Programmable parameters generally has options for tire sizes and axle ratios. However, as the years have gone on the ability to customize those settings has lessened. What you want to do may not be possible on a 2016.

- 2015 F150 3.5 for a r/hand manifold and a vista moonroof track. - 2015 Edge for cracked fixed moonroof glass - 2015 Fusion for the door latch recall - 2012 F350 6.2 for a l/hand manifold and 16 spark plugs

The way in which you describe the evolution of repair to the International diesels compared to the Ford engine sounds more like a case improving quality (read: getting through the growing pains of diesel emissions). The technology is always improving and changing when it comes to engine management and aftertreatment, but because the end product is constantly improving we seem to be diving into the systems less and less. It happens in gasoline land, too. Two valve Modular V8s are around and they are generally trouble free. Slap a large demand on the oil system in the form of camshaft phasing and you wind up with the Tritons being Ford's largest junk piles in recent memory. However, improve on the design and you get the 5.0 Coyote - which save for the odd cylinder head has been pretty darn good. Same goes for the 6.2. I still have no idea what the inside of a 6.2 looks like, and for Ford and its customers that's a good thing. As for Hotline, I get frustrated much like you do. When I use it I often repeat myself over two messages just to convey that I'm not a mouthbreather. Conversely, when I look at some of the requests that my colleagues send in I don't blame them for thinking that most of us are a bunch of idiots. Honestly, I feel the same way about most comments from customers until I have established a rapport and feel confident about the validity of the information coming my way. One question I do have is when tech competency started. (Differences between Canada and the US might show up in the answers.) I feel that the mandatory training prior to doing warranty work is accelerating the divide between those who understand systems and those who don't. And due to the nature of the business it also affects those who get paid and those who don't. I love making war with Sync and APIM updates for 0.3 while the oil change kid cranks out pre-paid services for 1.8.

Have done a couple on the 1.6 Escapes. Not sure if it is the purge valve itself or the check valve as it comes as a complete assy, but either way the result is that the system cannot pull a vacuum.

Ran great again this morning. Got thinking more about this last night and electrically it is working properly. Disconnect an injector and immediately it immediately codes the circuit. I'm leaning toward a mechanical fault in the fuel rail. I think that there may have been debris that lodged itself at one point in the main fuel line where it enters the rail, and later migrated to the inlet side of the fuel crossover line. This hypothesis is definitely one constructed to fit the symptoms, but when I start overlaying all of the passing electrical tests then I'm left with little else. I suspect that when we moved the rail around yesterday and debris may have been dislodged and removed. Going to run this one for a week or so and see what happens.

Have an interesting one - belongs to the guy the next bay over, but a couple of our brightest minds have got sucked in. Story goes 2015 6.2 Super Duty was at another dealer up the highway for ~5 weeks with this issue which they could not resolve. Warranty history shows the truck got a new PCM and 8 injectors. Towed to us. Also noted fire damage (dry chem all around the intake, charred loom) to the engine harness atop bank 2 valve cover. Crank no start, runs on brake cleaner through the intake. No codes due to the recent PCM. Found long and short trims along with flexfuel way out to lunch on bank 2. Unplugged bank 2 upstream UEGO and she fired up but with random consistent dead misfires on 3, 5 and 8. After idling for a while the misfires cleared themselves. ~50 km was put on the truck (along with a bunch of idle time) before it was released the customer. In the end it got a new UEGO, and after that was installed the trims came back to normal. Towed back in today for another crank no start. Hmmmm. Same thing - runs on brake cleaner. Wiggle the harness near the PCM and it fires, but runs only on bank 2. Bank 1 trims super lean (+29), suspect injectors not firing on bank 1. Bank 2 trims normal. Test injectors with a noid light - during the no start find almost no triggering, and during runs rough find proper appearing triggering on the affected bank - but still unconvinced of their mechanical function. Remove rail and confirm no fuel being injected on bank 1 during runs rough. Swap injectors side to side (while still out in mid air) suddenly all eight fire. Reassemble and find proper function - for now the truck runs very well. We check injector 12v supply, load test wires, check injector driver circuit continuity between the injectors and the PCM. All good. Have cam/crank sync. Unplug injectors while running and it throws immediate circuit codes. Verified coils are firing. We want to throw an engine harness at it due to the erratic nature of the fault combined with the fire damage, but we're yet to do a test which condemns the wiring in any way. Intermittently seeing the injectors fail to fire while at the same time triggering a noid light would usually be a slam dunk for plugged injectors, but immediately swapping the injector to the good bank and seeing it fire puts that idea to bed. Running out of ideas in a hurry. Does the PCM have an independent ground for each bank of injector drivers? Our wiring diagrams do not go that deep. If so, I'm wondering if resistance on the ground side for one bank of injectors is playing with their ability to carry load while at the same time being too minimal to code. Any other ideas? Between the three of us we are pretty darn smart, but there's something that we're missing. We don't want to fire the parts cannon at it (harness) but it's getting near that point ...

- 13 Focus DPS6 for a clutch shudder. Found rear main leaking. - 12 Focus DPS6 for intermittent lack of any forward or reverse gears. waiting on a TCM

That'll do. We had a customer in Whitehorse with two of them - one yellow and one red. The yellow was his summer daily and the red one was a garage queen with less than 100 km. Rich Swiss guy ... I used to service his yellow one - always annoying getting it on the lift and the lower shields off while he would watch over.

I have done a few. We now stock them in our parts dept. Some of them come in just leaking by themselves, and others started to leak after turbocharger replacement. At this point any time I have those lines off I swap out the fitting (on the turbo) at the same time - it's not worth the aggravation of doing the job twice. They pay alright. For the one on the left side against the block I have claimed transmission re and re - no issues. As for the rest of the leaks, I have seen a few of the degas bottle leaks, one with the hose at the t-stat housing and lots of water pumps (5.0, 6.2 and the other day a 3.5). Anyway, coolant leaks seem like a minor issue when you consider these things dropping intake valves on #6 and grenading the engine. My colleague the bay over has done two new-body 5.0s in the last couple weeks. Both came in for no cranks and both left with fresh long blocks. The first core got shipped straight back to Windsor.

Could have done it retail ; )