mchan68 Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Is there any more I should be claiming for replacing the flex-pipe other than 9438A, 9438AZW, 9438A2, and 9438A3 labor op codes for 4.3 hrs.? It just doesn't seem right when to access the driver side exhaust manifold top side nut and bolt is virtually impossible without lifting the cab 3 to 4 inchs off the frame. Unless, you guys have any secrets or shortcuts I'm unaware of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Ford has a nice little "how we can justify screwing you" section on the SLTS page that shows 'new' shortcuts around a lot of common 6.0 repairs. They recommend (and so do I, if you have one) using a half-moon wrench to hold the bolt and then spin the nut off from the bottom... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 I just us a 3/8 ratchet with a semi-deep socket to hold the top of the bolts. I have nerer really had a problem with those flex pipes. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 I use a flame wrench to just cut them, my parts dept stocks the nuts and bolts. I find that one or more bolts break about 60% of the time so I don't want to play the odds. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARRY BRUDZYNSKI Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 Ahhh... FIRE WRENCH /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gifThe universal tool. Nobody should be without one. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 Here in the state of Vermont, once a truck has been in service for 10 miles or so they won't come out without breaking. I don't even try to salvage them. Our parts dept has drawers full of these things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 I use a flame wrench to just cut them, my parts dept stocks the nuts and bolts. I find that one or more bolts break about 60% of the time so I don't want to play the odds. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif We have pretty much resorted to the smoke wrench for this too. Y-pipes used to be a real tough job for me for some reason. I also take five minutes to put the y-pipe into a bench vice, put the new bolts into the holes, facing down, and I weld them to the y-pipe. Spray the flange and the metal gasket with Permatex Copper-Tack and stick the gasket in place and apply anti seize to the threads. It becomes an aggravation-free one man job where everything stays aligned and no wrenches to hold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin phillips Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 i usually just tighten the nuts and cause them to break then take the broken bolts out usually works great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 16, 2007 Author Share Posted December 16, 2007 Well, the very first one I did a while back, I fought like mad trying to weasel it out of the engine from the top with the turbo removed. On this one, I said to hell with it, and removed the six body bolts, and lifted the cab about four inches off the frame to facilitate access to the fasteners. It went much smoother this way. Am I on the right track? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Am I on the right track?Well, Chan, that's up to you. I get the impression that you like to lift the cab for just about anything. If that makes it easier for you, fine. If you were to just cut or break the bolts off, you'll probably find that you can change a y-pipe in less than 2 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 I'll share a stupid moment in my career. At first I was attempting to remove the y-pipe with the right manifold tube bolted on. What was I thinking? Don't know. Since I was good at getting the trans mission out I also used to pull them, leaving the turbo and everything on the engine undisturbed. The positive thing I can say about that is I did not have the alignment problems with the pipes and exhaust leaks that my co-workers were having. Since then, with all of the turbo problems that have arisen, I wised up and remove them and separate the right side pipe (I know, I know!) and they usually go smoothly now. I guess that once you learn what works best for YOU in dealing with accessing bolts the job is not so bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snw blue by you Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 I used to fight with them, however as time has gone by and I have probably replaced somwhere around 50 of them it has become a great deal easier. I use a short 10mm wrench and a 13mm medium depth 3/8 drive impact swivel socket and a 3/8 Snap-On impact gun. If for some reason the bolts don't want to come out, I cut them with the gas axe. I've never had to lift the body for this procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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