Keith Browning Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 This was not a nice surprise when it happened & needless to say I was not happy. Two thread inserts later and... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 How long did that take ya? Was it an easy drill or a bit of work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 Sharp drill bits make short work of any broken fastener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Sharp drill bits make short work of any broken fastener. I'll second that, good drill bits and a Drill Doctor are a necessity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 I just spent 3 hours welding nuts to those broken bolts and the bolts are STILL in the manifold!!! I think I'm just going to replace it. I didn't try drilling them, but after all the welding I really don't think I'd be able to gat a drill bit to go through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 Jeez! I only spent about 30 minutes and that included a quick walk out to the Snap-on truck for some new 1/8" drill bits ( too small to sharpen ). Another important tool for broken fasteners is a high-speed moto tool like my trusty Dremmel. Use a small GRINDING STONE to clean up the surface of the broken fastener and if done right creates a slightly conical surface which makes centering a punch or the drill bit itself easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 every time I've snapped off those little EGR up-pipe bolts I've had to build the stud up and heat the manifold a dull red before I could extract them. Anymore I just heat them prior to breaking them off. A #2 brazing tip works okay for getting down in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006 Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Anytime I find one of those bolts thats too tight or seizing up on removal, I retighten them and stop. Then I remove the inner fender and battery tray, remove 1 a/c line and slide the cooler out with that pipe still bolted to the exhaust manifold. I found this way is a lot quicker and less of a hassle than trying to drill or using a welder to remove a broken stud. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I have had 1 break so far. We welded a nut on the end and it came right out. Cleaned up the threads and it was good to go. We have a crappy welder, but I am told a new one is on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Hoooolieeeee sheeeeyit! I almost had to put a head on one today. Both bolts broke off and had to be drilled. I got one repaired just fine. The second I could not get the drill to center and started drilling wayyyyy off. I thought that I could really use a drill guide and then it hit me to take the pipe and install it with the one bolt and use the pipe flange itself as a drill guide. Worked like a freakin charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 I did one this morning--- I read somewhere to hit the bolt hard with a punch then remove. I have had these break before so I tried it, well it worked. They came right out. I don't know maybe it was just luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 I actually tried that with no luck obviously. I notice that with any of these bolts for these pipes that the threads tend to gall which is probably why they break. When these break on me they usually break free and turn once or twice and tighten up then break. Trying to turn them back in in an attempt to "work" them doesent work either. Once they tighten and seize that's it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Keith I agree that is what has happened to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 I hate when that happens. You know that even if the bolt comes out its pulling all the threads with it anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 I thought that I could really use a drill guide and then it hit me to take the pipe and install it with the one bolt and use the pipe flange itself as a drill guide. Worked like a freakin charm. That's what I did on a 5.4 3 valve. Manifold was cracked anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 I was thinking the same thing but I didn't have a legit reason to warranty or scrap the pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Are those the bolts way down in the valley that break? I got my first 2 trucks with restricted coolers I diagnosed today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Are those the bolts way down in the valley that break? I got my first 2 trucks with restricted coolers I diagnosed today. Yes they are - down near the cylinder head. There is plenty of room to deal with them if one or both break off. I normally do not remove the intake to remove the EGR coolers and this last truck I had to take the upper off to use the pipe as a guide. Also had to remove the heater tube - neither is a big deal just thought I would mention it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Thought I mentioned this but I apply anti-seize compound to the bolts going back together. The way I see it I could be the poor bastard that has to take the truck apart again someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordracer Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 The bolts go into the exhaust manifold not the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Lately, I haven't been able to get any of the bolts out. They're even breaking in the EGR valve! I'd like to meet the guy that decided M6 bolts would be large enough for the application, and kick him in the nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Thought I mentioned this but I apply anti-seize compound to the bolts going back together. The way I see it I could be the poor bastard that has to take the truck apart again someday. :haha2:Someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Are those the bolts way down in the valley that break? I got my first 2 trucks with restricted coolers I diagnosed today. Yes they are - down near the cylinder head. There is plenty of room to deal with them if one or both break off. I normally do not remove the intake to remove the EGR coolers and this last truck I had to take the upper off to use the pipe as a guide. Also had to remove the heater tube - neither is a big deal just thought I would mention it. How do you get to the brackets and harness on the back of the cooler if you don't pull the intake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Lately, I haven't been able to get any of the bolts out. They're even breaking in the EGR valve! I'd like to meet the guy that decided M6 bolts would be large enough for the application, and kick him in the nuts! I don't think it's so much that they aren't large enough. I think it's that they didn't put anything on them. Or they loctited them in. I laughed when the directions said to use loctite on the bolts into the egr valve, then I smeared them up with anti-seize and screwed them in, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Are those the bolts way down in the valley that break? I got my first 2 trucks with restricted coolers I diagnosed today. Yes they are - down near the cylinder head. There is plenty of room to deal with them if one or both break off. I normally do not remove the intake to remove the EGR coolers and this last truck I had to take the upper off to use the pipe as a guide. Also had to remove the heater tube - neither is a big deal just thought I would mention it. How do you get to the brackets and harness on the back of the cooler if you don't pull the intake? They can be easily accessed from under the vehicle, it helps to have long arms though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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