forddieseldoctor

Nope. Don’t remember that.

I wasn’t bitching. Just a simple observation that makes me shake my head a little.

Even Ford can't make up their mind what their acronyms stand for. In the Intermittent Diagnostics webinar the call GSB's global service bulletins. But on the screen in one of the slides it says general service bulletins.

Um... it can show low relative compression on other cylinders when you have a leaking jnjector. You have to run manual compression to verify.

Yes and no. It all depends on the leak. One of them had 2 leaking and it only sounded weird while cranking for the first couple of revolutions. The other one did show weird on relative compression and I flat rated the compression test and only pulled out the glow plug on the hole that showed low in relative compression and missed the leaking injector until the high pressure pump didn’t fix it.

You’re not flooding a cylinder are you? I had 2 of them come in for stalled while driving that had a stuck injector. Pull your glow plugs and crank it over and see what comes out.

Cause it’s a wiggle fest to get the head in and out of there.

Um any idea what the remote start uses to enable the pats system? I seem to remember a remote start system once that had a ring that had to be stuck onto the pats ring to make it think there wasa pats key in the ignition.

I got a second 6.7 in the last month with a contaminated def system.

Hmm. I guess it pays to be a pack rat. Speaking of which I think I still have a copy of that hanging in my locker.

If you double gasket the small o-ring on a def pump it will more than likely shit out and block the return port. And if it does manage to block the return port it will set a code for def pressure too high.

The red line on the bottom is the acc/run circuit (in an inverted position so I could see it easier). The orange line is the run/crank circuit. Since the acc/run circuit went to zero volts before the run/crank circuit it thought that the key was being turned to crank.

I had a 2014 Focus that in the event that the key was turned to run without starting the engine and then turned to the off position it would crank for a couple seconds once they key got to the off position. The ignition switch status pid in the bcm showed it switch to crank on the way off and the crank pid in the pcm showed it was getting a crank request signal. I performed some basic circuit checks on the crank circuit that goes to the pcm and then I replaced the ignition switch. The concern stayed. Once hotline got back to me they swore up and down that I had a short circuit in the crank signal circuit from the switch to the pcm. I unpinned both ends of this circuit and I discovered that contrary to what the workshop manual says, the car will start normally without the crank signal wire. After a rather legnthy argument with a hotline guy who insisted that I was full of shit and claimed that I needed to do all my voltage tests at the bcm while looking for a short to power cause it might not show up at the ignition switch end of the circuit, I discovered that the crank/start wire to the bcm had an aftermarket backup camera tapped into it. I removed the wire and everything was good to go. So long story short.... the bcm tells the pcm when the ignition is turned to crank. The same way that it tells all the other modules when to wake up.

I’ve had a couple of 17’s that have been slow as shit to reset when they get filled.

I had some issues properly calculating valve lash adjustment on a 2011 Transit Connect today. It irritated me bad enough that I created a spreadsheet in Excel to make it easier. And since I believe in helping others by posting as much as I can here I decided that I would post it and anyone can share it and use it as much as they like. This is only going to work with the cup style cam followers such as the Transit Connect. Valve Shim Calculator.xlsx I also took some screen shots of where to enter what info. All measurements are in millimeters. Step One. Record the current shims in the yellow boxes. Step 2. Measure and record the current valve lash in millimeters in the green boxes. Step 3. Put the minimum and maximum lash specs in millimeters in the correct orange box. Step 4. Use the minimum and maximum calculations to find the correct shim from the parts catalog. Valve Shim Calculator.xlsx

Shh. Don’t say that too loud.

+1 for the exhaust valves not opening.

+1 for the Lisle set for the 3 valves. We use an old Ford kit from the escort days for the thread repair on the 2 valves. There is some pretty decent looking kits on Rotunda.

I don’t even know what to say...... Someone should try and get the vin from him. It would be very interesting to see what it says.

Glad to hear you’re recovering nicely.

I’ve had enough of them do it that I automatically pull the ficm relay before I start.

In your first post you said it is an 08.

Yes it is. I’ve been accesorizing a 17 F450 outside of work and I have the sections for that one printed out.

According to the Ford Body Builder book yes. (I looked at a 2017 and didn’t take the time to look at them all.) You do have to add the resistor to pick your rpm level just like on the 6.7’s https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/bodybuild.html

I am working a second job on part time/ as needed status. It’s an indy shop that does anything from pickups to semis to farm tractors to fabrication. As a result I get to play with some pretty cool stuff. Friday night and saturday morning I was tasked with learning how to remove a 7 or 8” hydralic cylinder from a grapple truck. The impact is an 1 1/2” drive with a 4” socket. The portapower used to pull the pins out is a 100 ton unit