the_twig_187

the parts department has told me that the WIF sensor is part of the housing and cannot be serviced separately. it is not identical to a 6.0 HFCM as the 6.0 has the sensor on a plate that can be removed and replaced, but the LCF is right into the casting of the housing.

I have had two LCF's in the last few months come in with WIF lights on due to bad sensors ( you can trigger the light on/off with a paperclip in the harness) the suck part is that the sensor is part of the HFCM so you have to replace the entire thing $380.00CAN in order to have the light function properly. anyone else see any of these?

Ok thank guys I was just a little unsure as I have never replaced the rockers or push rods before. I informed the customer of the lengthy attempt to repair of just replacing the rocker and rod and that there was no guarantee that there was no base engine damage and they agreed that the time would be better spent on replacing the long block so I have one on order

so ford hotline says to replace the push rods/rocker arms/and the rocker bridge. then do another "manual" compression test and see if the compression comes back. in order to do that I will need to re-seal all four injectors, replace the oil rail to injector tubes(lines) anything else im missing? I read the workshop manual for the rocker replacement but was very confused in its wording with lining up the cylinders to 10:30 and was wondering if anyone could simplify it for me? thanks

Don't you have to dismantle the block to get to the lifters? Or am I thinking of a 6 litre?

the contents of the #2 valve train.... I have no experience with this, what should I do next? cylinder head? just replace the push rod and rock arm?

well I just ran an IDS relative compression test and cylinder #2 has a 25% compression loss

so I have a 2009 F-550 with a bad shaking while at idol and a dead misfire on cylinder 2. I have never replaced an injector on a 6.4L before and I was wondering (A) what is a typical charge for a retail injector replacement? none of our labour books have 6.4L times and warranty doesn't list injector replacement times either ( any thing I should know before embarking on this journey?

in the pic on the right it certainly looks like a hairline crack but then on the left you cant see it

well after a staggering 14hrs all four glow plug boots have been extracted. I was able to get a right angle drill on the glowplug boot after removing the left engine mount and jacking the engine up so it leaned more towards the middle (where the most room is). I drilled down the edge of the bore until I cut the o-ring. once the o-ring was severed I was able to put a small "lady slipper" hooked prybar on the inside of the head and push out the boot. it was very frustrating and took an insane amount of time but if I ever have to do this again on the left head I will certainly drill it again. I tried many approaches (which is why it took so much time to complete) before I had no choice but to try the right angle drill. thanks for the help guys

Okay well I put another solid 8 hrs into this job and I managed to get ONE glow plug butt out of the bore! I removed the valve cover/oil rail and injectors got a seal puller tried my hardest to push the butt ends out of the bore but they won't even budge. I got a right angle air drill and drilled holes into the edge of the butt until I cut through the o-ring and was able to pull out the harniss. Now for the next problem.. The two middle plugs have no room at all. I can't get the drill between the head and the side walls of the van chassis. I pulled the left side engine mount out and lowered the engine (not enough room) then I jacked the engine up as high as it could go (still not enough room to get a pick/hammer or a drill on the butt of the harniss) I'm so fed up with this school bus I don't even know how I'm going to get the last two harnis butts out. Anyone have any last ideas for my current situation? Would greatly appreciate it

Awesome thanks guy I really appreciate it... Will let you know on Monday... They trickey part is that it's on the left head so you can't get at them through the wheel well like if it was on the right side. On the plus side I had to replace the #6 injector so I have the valve cover and oil rail already off... Do I need to remove the injectors in order to pop the butt of the harnis out? What's the best way to do it ( someone mentioned channel lock on the harnis butt and the other end on the outside edge of the head and squeeze forcing the harnis out)

im doing a glow plug on the left head of a E-350 school bus. the glow plug harness has snapped off the butt end of the connector and now im left with a stump of a connector boot that remains lodged in the glowplug hole. my question is... is there access on the inside of the head (remove the valve cover) to where I could pop it out from the inside? anyone have any good tricks for this type of situation? thanks

so our dealership is selling 3.7L transits like its going out of style. most of these have found their way back to the dealership due to the air filter box's being a sump for rain water to collect ( I mentioned about this issue in an earlier post). I had a no start issue with one today, it had solid compression so I went right after fuel. it is a returnless system so I pulled the line going to the "y" pipe fuel injector rail. had another tech crank the engine and had a bottle to catch any fuel coming out of the line. not only did the fuel come out of the line from the tank into my catch bottle but the vehicle also started up. I reconnected the line started it up and the vehicle began to run smoothly. at this point the IC gauges did not respond (rpm/spedo/gas level/coolent temp). I connected the IDS and ran a self-test on the IC, this caused the gauges to cycle and the lights to flash and after the self test everything was fine and worked correctly. its starting to alarm me how many of these im starting to see. with the cancelation of the econoline series this is suspopsed to be the bread and butter of the ford motor company going forward. if these vans start to build reputations of shit box's it could affect all of us in the wallet in the future.

ohhh that's interesting. the company that own the truck has there own in house "mechanic". so we have no history and they wouldn't say if the check engine light was on or not before the no start condition. I priced out a retail DPF as they are way beyond warranty and they declined so they are towing it back to their shop and they are going to fight with ford to try and get it covered under warranty. my response to that statement was "let me get you the phone!"

so today I had an interesting diag that I thought others may be interested in. 2011 f-550 (6.7L) no start with no codes. the only piece of information the customer gave us was that they herd a loud bang noise while driving and pulled over. poped the hood and found the plastic cold side CAC tube had blown off of the TB housing. I chased a bunch of different directions until I decided to call ford hotline and see what they thought. hotline said when ever you have a situation where the cold side CAC blows off its due to extreme backpressure due to a clogged exhaust system. the weakest link in the chain is the plastic cold side CAC and that is often what brakes the camels back when the exhaust cant escape as quickly as it needs to. with this information I removed the 2 bolts on the downpipe and separated it. the truck fired up without issues, and will now need a DPF to fix the issue. in conclusion= if you ever have the cold side CAC tube blown off go right towards a plugged exhaust system p.s. not sure why there weren't any DPF codes or EBP codes in memory if it got to the point where the vehicle wouldn't even run

yah I did what Alex does, the WSM says to remove the upper intake and bla bla bla. but all you need to do is get the battery tray out and disconnect the pcm harness and with a little wag of the dogs tail you can get her out. I never got the P2457 code KOER either. and with this being my first one I had no idea the TSB even existed. so I was in the WSM chasing wiring concerns until I got fed up with it so I fibbed that the code came up KOER so I could do the TSB as a last ditch resort. Then when I went to replace it I was shocked when I cracked the case open to find out that the right side was completely clogged beyond belief

so I had this TSB come in today. its the first one I've ever seen but I guess if its a TSB it must be Fairley common.

yes! we have a man on the inside....the revolution has begun

they are all gas...the air inlet is in the top vent of the front grill and it "slides" downwards towards the passenger side firewall where the air filter box sits. this is how I think all the water is getting in. I think they are going to re-shape the air dam and make a recall or tsb because it seems like a lot of vans are having this issue. I personally have not seen as diesel yet but I was told at ford school this week (in mississigua Ontario) that they will not be doing a diesel course for the transits due to the likeness of the 6.7 engines.

not sure how many of you guys have transits running through your shops but I have personally worked on 5 new transits that all have a check engine light on with code p061b (mas and tb correlation) I have found the air filter SOAKED in water with standing water in the filter box. I contacted ford and they said they are aware of the problem and that engineering is working on a fix and to just change the air filter and blow out the water at this time. Just thought I would save someone a hassle if they come across a check engine light with a P061b on a new ford transit.= check the air filter

??? wow that's a little much.... honestly I don't see a lot of 6.4's at all I would say of all the engines im the least knowledgeable with the 6.4

I couldn't even hear the air leak on the left head because the air was rushing out so loud on the right. I cant count how many times I have seen dummy plugs replaced but the stand pipes are still the 10mm allen heads. now I have never seen a standpipe o-ring fail but I mean "come on" your right there man!

And this is why we always recommend both sides...

yah that's what I figured, ill just do all 4 now and keep a happy customer. I didn't know what to charge so I looked up in the Mitchel book and I booked the same time as if I were to replace one injector on each bank.