the_twig_187

DONT BOTHER! if you have no choice then... but I attempted this last thursday and after 2hrs I gave up and we sent it out to a shop the specializes in balancing driveshafts, installing ujoints ect... SEND IT OUT! ....if you can

the truck is bone stock and has whooping 17,000 km on it and was built in december of 2014

I have repaired 4 vehicles all built with the model year 2015 for right front axle u-joint failure. 3 trucks were snow plows but the latest one is not. all the vehicles have approx. 30,000km and the u-joint has blown apart. This one has also taken out the wheel bearing and the hub actuator. Has anyone else has issues with 2015 F-series doing this?

What tool do you guys use to remove the T-30 high pressure oil rail bolts on the right head at the bottom with the HVAC box in the way? I don't seem to have anything that is short enough to fit without jaming against the box.

I have a F-750 with an abs light on

13 hrs to do all that! wow I hope this isn't warranty

this is unreal....amazing job thank you very much from the community

our shop foreman is super anal about things like tying down a cab that is 8 feet off the ground. Which is a good things because its always better to be safe than explaining why a cab fell. we have straps that are mounted to an arm bracket which slides and pinch bolts onto the hoist arm (made specifically for cab offs). then we throw another strap on overtop of that hoist mounted hold down strap. then when the cab is in the air and on the highest set of locks. We use old body bolts through the eyelet of the strap to mount a third strap to the frame of the truck on the ground so that the nose of the truck doesn't get any ideas... like I said its way overkill but it ensures we never have to explain to the dealer principal "so first the cab started falling over....and then it fell over!"

Yah I know... It's a landscaping company and they replaced an alternator on another truck only to bring it to me when the battery's wouldn't change. Found a brake in the genmon wire from the alternator to the pcm. Overlayed the wire and fixed it... Cost them an alternator for nothing... Same with this truck they decided to "fix" the hold down themselves and "poof" warranty turns into retail

so I have a confirmed cause and repair for the engine knock with poor compression. the customer replaced the number 7 injector hold down as he claimed "it was broken" he also claimed that he torqued the hold down bolt to the ford specifications. I removed the cab and prepared to pull the head to investigate the engines internals (as we thought it would be warranty at this point) when I was removing the injectors as part of the head removal process I found the #7 injector hold down bolt was finger tight. The injector was carbon fouled and destroyed by the flame front passing up the injector bore. This was the cause of the poor compression, misfire and engine knock (blow by). I gave the customer 3 options as this concern was no longer going the warranty route. they chose the route of replace the injector and re-seal the others, re-assemble and hope for the best. That's what I did and when starting and running the vehicle is very smooth. compression is back, the misfire is gone and the engine is very quiet (no more knock)...for now so this is a complete repair and my first cab off repair....I lost my virginity

I had a customer come in saying that when he came to a stop light, the hot air coming threw the vents goes cold until he begins to pickup speed again and it goes back to hot air. I thought "air pocket" in the cooling system, so I checked the de-gas bottle and there was no coolant at all in the bottle. I found some left over jugs of gold coolant and began to fill the de-gas bottle. It took 1 and a half jugs of coolant to fill the system to the cold fill line on the bottle. I immediately thought "EGR cooler" so I pulled the EGR valve to inspect for the prescience of coolant or moisture (none found) I looked at the EGR to up pipe to see moisture sweating around the pipe/clamp (none found) also pressure tested the cooling system and no external leaks were found and the system held pressure (18 psi) for approx. 30min I wanted this tool to be able to drive the truck and verify if there was an internal coolant leak from the head gaskets what other steps would you guys have done that I may have missed in this situation?

excellent! our shop does not have this tool so im looking to build it. was just wondering if I spent the time and the effort and money required to build this tool if it actually was useful and helped properly diag cooling system issues (egr cooler / headgaskets) I have found a 0-30 psi pressure gauge ($19.99) at princess auto a Tee adapter ($2.99) at princess auto I just have to find approx 10 feet of 3/8 heater hose to complete the tool

so I have watched some videos on youtube of two different tech which I deem to be very confident and professional techs. both of these techs use a 0-30psi pressure gauge and some 3/8 heater hose to tee into the degas bottle and then they run the gauge into the cab to observe the pressure building while under load to determine if the problem is coming from the egr cooler or the headgaskets. both techs claim that a normal operating range for coolant pressure in their areas is approx. 10-12 psi and that if you are seeing 15-16-+ psi that you have combustion pressure in the cooling system. they both say that if the pressure builds to 15+ psi in a matter of seconds that it is evident of an EGR cooler leak and that if it slowly builds to 15+ psi that it is more evident of a headgasket issue. does anyone have any experience with this tool as a means of diaging egr/headgasket problems? does it work? is it accurate? thanks Chris

well the only reason I didn't come up to work with you was that there was no diesel work at your place for me...they wanted a general tech and I was more interested in pursuing my interests in diesel/truck work

yah management at the shop is very poor when it comes to supplying the truck shop with dissent equiptment. there is a corner of the shop that has become a broken tool graveyard. in the graveyard now is a mobile lift (wheels are broken... it cannot move) a step platform (broken in half) an engine crane (cylinder leaks oil so it wont pressurise) 1 of 2 floor jacks (valve control bolt broken off) and then lots and lots of half empty red rotunda shop cases. when I made a list of all of these tools and gave it to the service manager he said he would not replace any of the tools that were missing "because previous techs had stolen them" and he said he would replace the shop equiptment that was broken (that was over a month and a half ago) this is the type of place that the only way to get anything done is if I go and buy the equiptment myself and bring in the receipt to get reimbursed. just frustrating because its a lot of effort and time spent on my part because the person responsible (the service manager) cant be bothered to look into it.

so I think im on the right track....I found that the main engine wiring harness has a ton of small cuts in various wires. I also found that the injector harness for the right bank cylinder #3 has been cut and a new "pig tail" from I' m guessing an old harness was spliced in. and by spliced in I mean butt connected and then wrapped with electrical tape. I observed the crank and cam signals while cranking also and I found that when wiggling the harness the signals would drop out. I also tried a relative compression test again to see if any results were different after a long soak and I kept receiving a message saying that due to the erratic RPM fluctuation the test could not be performed. I have recommended that we replace the harness before we continue as I believe that it could be contributing to some or all of our problems. customer is thinking about the recommendation and is going to let us know by tomorrow if they want to continue as I told him that there may also be some base engine problems that will still need to be solved even after the harness is replaced.

aww I see...I found the red rotunda box's for a lot of diesel tools that were on the back shelf in the truck shop but all of the most common tools are missing. I was told by management that it was technicians over the year that left with the tools in their box's. I did not mean that as a "shot" or insult towards previous techs. but now I see that I 'm also going to have to purchase these tools for myself as I had to borrow another techs IPR socket again today sorry for any miscommunication

I also don't think they can be changed by programmable parameters... when you order a new IC you have to include the mileage in the order form so they can pre program the cluster to the vehicles mileage. This way they can keep the authenticity of the mileage of vehicles legitimate, otherwise used car scammers would just buy "the tool" and program the IC on vehicles to be 100K lower then they actually are in order to bump up the $ I think the only way your going to be able to accurately change the mileage to be correct is to remove the IC and send it to a place that can re-flash it to the correct mileage then install it and program it to the vehicle, and remember when you program a IC you must have 2 keys if it has a PATS system. The security features are stored in the IC.

nice! the problem with our shop is that there has been so many different techs that have gone through in the last couple of years (we don't have hoists in the truck shop so most techs can only handle it for a short period of time) for this reason we have seen all of our most common tools (IPR socket, ball joint receiving cups, HPO line disconnect tools, full floating rear axle lock nut sockets, ect...) are all gone. the nice blow moulded red case's are still there but the tools are gone. so I 'm at the point where if I don't purchase these tools myself (or find some other way of doing the job) then there is simply no way of completing the job. now a sane, full brain functioning person would say "well why doesn't your dealer just replace the needed tools that have gone missing" and to that I reply by saying..."they wont even buy hoists!" lol we have one floor jack and one step platform to share between the 3 truck shop techs...I have been asking for a second floor jack for over a month and a half now. that's why I ask that if the Mac tools 6L set was of decent value that I would purchase it

Bruce... I love that E series fuel pressure tester! I' m actually working on a van with misfires and could use that tool right now...I know your probably in the United States but could you recommend a store that I might buy some of those fittings and that banjo bolt? or perhaps an online store that I could order those parts from?

I recently came across the January flyer of Mac tool and saw an interesting 6 liter tool kit with various special 6 liter powerstroke tools including -IPR socket -IPR controller (for air testing HPO systems) -HPO test fittings (one for HPOP fitting and one for ICP fitting) -quick disconnects for 03- early 04 style HPO rail lines -a flip socket one side being for the oil filter cap and the other side being for the fuel filter cap -a pusher tool for safely removing the fuel injectors electrical connector from the cylinder head pass through hole -a disconnect tool for removing the glow plug harness -EGR valve removal tool Total sale price is $284.99 (my mac dealer price is $249.99 + tax) I' m asking the community if this is a reasonable price for all of these tools...keep in mind that I do not own any of these tools and when doing a job that requires these tool I' am borrowing them from another tech what are your thoughts...?

fuel is over 8 months old as he did not put any new fuel in the truck after it sat since feb 2014 I have not been able to get back at the truck since the other truck shop tech went on vacation for 2 weeks and im running off my head with work...customer knows that it will be a while before we can diag it and i will update once I can get back at it and find something

that's exactly what I was thinking....exhaust valve meet mr piston lol

build date is -Feb 2010 km is -83,675 engine hours is -2494 idol hours -886 they service the truck at a "lickey lube" service shop (cheapest price I guess) and we are having them bring in all the service records for the truck

yah that's looks normal to me....what? you don't expect to see large metal fragments in your fuel system ford's responses to shotty workmanship on parts building and assembly are getting more and more ridiculous every day