the_twig_187

yes I changed the oil pump, oil pickup tube, chain tensioners and I flushed the engine with 4L of clean engine oil before re-assembling and re-installing it. there was only very small traces of metal particles from the cam caps that scored. there was no chunks of metal found. I wanted to put a long block in it just to be on the safe side but the shop foreman wouldn't let me and said it would be an "over repair" so my hands were tied and I just replaced the right side head and cleaned as much as I could.

yes Brigs...the heads are interchangeable so you have a tensioner oil port on both the front and rear of the head. there is a 6mm Allen plug on the back side of the head which can be removed for testing. I used this port to inject fresh oil to prime the engine before reinstalling it.

Valve stem seals? Was that not a TSB?

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so I lost about half a weeks pay on the most recent trip down warranty lane I had a 2015 E-250 with 30,00km and a very loud tapping noise coming out of the right side cylinder head. I removed the engine from the chassis and also removed both valve covers to inspect the cam bearing caps. I ended up finding a very small piece of silicone had wedged itself in the oil feed/restriction passage in the right side cam bearing cap. this starved the cam of oil and eventually the cam made contact with the bearings sending little metal flakes everywhere. warranty paid 14.8hrs with all the diag and it took me about 30hrs to complete the entire job and have the truck out the door. here are some pics... in the last picture you will see the piece of silicone in the little passageway just between the top and middle cam bolts

you had the turbo out, everything removed, intake manifold off, cylinder heads off and he DID NOT want to do the oil cooler... hahahahahah pay now or pay later

Had a 2015 F-550 with 2,000km on it. battery light on with code (p0625) conducted ppt "D" for the code and had 2v on the power feed wire from the high current battery fuse box to the alternator connector (should have been battery voltage 12.6v) I was going to overlay the entire wire but I thought I will give the harness a look over to see if I see the infamous "green fuzz". right where the wire comes out of the main loom (under the air filter box) I saw the fuzz! I peeled back the loom and found the break in the wire. spliced in a patch and vehicle is back to normal. just thought I would put it out there as this seems to be a bad pinch spot on the harness as there is a hold down bracket holding right at the spot that the wire was broken.

Those pliers look bad ass

bam! peanut butter an jammmmmmm!

I have started doing the exact same thing (sealing off brake line fittings to make master cylinder plugs) then just have someone apply the brake pedal. if it is hard as a rock and wont go down then the master is ruled out. if it sinks to the ground and no fluid is seen leaking from the plugs then a cup seal inside the master has rolled over and is causing your poor pedal. the kicker is I used this method on a 2000 E-350 that had a crap pedal and confirmed that it WAS in fact the master cylinder that was bad and thus swapped the master with confidence and fully repaired the vehicle.

I did exactly what alex said and just positioned the a/c condenser to the side and pinned it back with a bungee cord. had the whole job done in under an hour. charged 3.5hrs (found the book time)

ok awesome thank you

so I have my first left side tank crimp leak on a 6.4L. I have done plenty of 6.7L for the same leak point but this is my first 6.4. any advise? tips? tricks? retail time? thanks for the help Chris

why....why cant they make an egr cooler that doesn't leak? am I asking the same question as why cant they make a DPS6 trans input shaft seal that doesn't leak lol

yup had one myself not long ago. was a 6.4 also. the brake pedal travels a lot more compared to cars or earlier model trucks. even though the pedal has more travel distance, the vehicle stops dead long before the pedal reaches the bottom of its travel. people are used to the rock hard pedal with minor travel and the 6.4 and the 6.7 are simply not the same as what they are used to. but try explaining that to a customer

I got the same code (not lol)

wow hahaha.... I think we saved your engine, all you need to replace is the rocker arm and pushrod.....smash! ok sir now you need a long block

I use the Snap-On ones that Matt posted above. they are the only things I have seen that work but they are still a pain in the ass. because they are short and the snap ring is so tough, it is difficult to squeeze the pliers enough to have the ring open up to the point in which it will slide off of the axle nose. most of the time I end up having the pliers slip (not able to compress the pliers enough to open the ring) and then I slam/pinch my hands together and get very frustrated. its much easier to put the snap ring back on the axle as I put a flat blade screwdriver against my chest (opposite end against the snap ring) and while opening the snap ring with the snap ring pliers I push my chest/screw driver into the hub which helps get the snap ring to jump into the grove. like I said this is the best I have seen at being able to take off the snap ring/ put on the snap ring...if there is a better option out there I would love to have it

this sounds awesome! I keep a Microsoft word document with my "common" parts numbers and prices so it saves time. I have always replaced the 4x4 vacuum seal, the wheel bearing o-ring seal and the updated axle tube dust boot (if needed). I have always re-used the wheel bearing studs and nuts and the axle nose snap ring. last time I checked the prices for a 4x4 seal alone was like $85 (Canadian)...are you guys saying that the entire kit with all seals and nuts and snap rings and everything was like under $1???

Just did a 10.5 inch two piece traction lok clutch kit... It did not come with pre-selected shims so I had to guess the shims and then assemble the case halves until I reached a breakaway torque of 20-30 foot pounds. I had to do this because we have the nice red box with the shim measuring tools, but not the tools themselves!

I agree with all of you...next time I think I will take the approach of the correct fix is replace the sensor/HFCM or the light will remain on

LOL I don't understand people... they like to roll the dice but flip out if it comes up snake eyes

Well I gave him the choice and he decided to go with the repair that cost $0 and had risk over the repair that cost several hundred and solved the problem correctly

best $160.00 I ever spent. was in need of a tool cart as I tend to bounce around the shop a lot and am not always working right in front of my tools box. It was a huge pet peve of mine to always be walking back and forth or loading my little crash cart with so many tools I ended up with "cart-idus" and could never find anything. I found a 3 drawer snapon cart with lockable lid for $900 + tax (on sale) then I came across a Harbour Freight (American princess auto) 3 drawer cart. the cart was almost identical to the snapon one but was on sale for $189.99. the reviews online were very strong for the cart and the price was a knock out. I also found some youtube videos explaining that if you sign up for their email flyer you get a one time purchase discount coupon of 25% off your first purchase. this brings the $189.99 cart down to $161.00. if anyone is on the fence about wanting an awesome tool cart for a wicked price this is the one!

yup so I ended up doing the customer a solid and just telling him I would unplug the sensor and the light would stay off but that he must be aware of this and make sure to change his fuel filters ever 25K as to not run into any issues and he was more than pleased with this. plus he services it with us and has always kept up with his maintenance.