the_twig_187

I have a HPO leak from the "old" dummy plug on the right side oil rail. parts gave me a kit that contains 2 stand pipes, 2 dummy plugs, the green PCV o-ring and 6mm Allen plug (not sure what its for). I searched oasis for a tsb and didn't find anything was this an old TSB? just wondering why they are all sold as a kit?

Yes several people have mentioned the wsm. I was just wondering if anyone else has a good flush procedure that's not so labour intensive. I'll just refer to the wsm

would you recommend this guys cooling flush procedure? (tried to copy and paste the link but it wouldn't work...how do I copy and paste a youtube link? I cant seem to copy or paste anything in the typing window)

wow im glad you guys have my back on this one. I punched on and off when ever I worked on the van while ordering broken parts and came up to 19 hrs. I have been a technician for 4 years now and graduated and wrote my licence back in November. I have tried very hard to educate myself after working hours via this web site, ford web courses and picking the brain of other techs. but having only been in this for 4 years I missed the hay-day of the 6 liter so I wasn't even aware that the oil cooler/ egr cooler was a TSB... good to know and next time I will use that as my advantage when "I" quote the job. Alex is right tho with the a/c removed it was a ton easier. I also put a prybar on the right valve cover and pry the serpentine belt/tensioner until I can lock it. that way I could leave the fan and the stator attached which also saved time. thanks for the help guys, im very thankful for all your guys input it give me a lot of confidence in myself. So because the two jobs overlap each other my question is what is a fair charge for both the customer and myself for this job (assuming no complications occur and further time is needed)? should you always flush the cooling system afterwards? if you don't have a fancy flush machine, how would you flush the system? Chris

whats your procedure for flushing the cooling system? do you use the cv-9? do you run the vehicle with the rad plug out while filling the degas bottle with a garden hose? do you use a fancy flush machine? do you pull out the water jacket plugs on the block? what gave you the assumption that I did not flush the cooling system? I truly did not flush the cooling system after the repair im just curious as to what gave it away?

lol cant be too safe. painters tape and some blocks of wood to hold the tape down

its been below -30 for about two weeks in Toronto and even having trucks plugged in over night. nothing starts without a battery charger and some ether

so I just completed my first oil cooler and egr cooler on a 2004 e-350 school bus. all and all it went fairly well. the exhaust to manifold bolts rotted and broke so I had to heat them and punch them out and the right hand fuel line from the bowl to the right head broke and needed replacement. got the whole job done in 19hrs and the job was quoted by another tech for 12hrs total so I lost about a days pay but the next one will for sure go smoother.

6.7 with a straight pipe. EGR delete, exhaust fluid delete, tuner, huge subs and TV's in the back seats.... apparently it was ordered as a chassis cab and then modified in Vancouver before they brought it to Toronto got a pic of the engine bay with the horizontal hood up (not grate) but you can see the "Cold air" filter and the right side head

so I had the pleasure of doing an oil change on this vehicle this morning. It is a 2012 F-350 .... What do you think? and YES he gave me a case of red bull and said thank you very much when I was finished

yah that wedge is not for the inside of the valve cover. another tech had the proper wedge in his goodies bin and I was able to use that one to repair the vehicle. I had the parts guy run the number on the picture Matt posted and the cpu says the part is discontinued and was not replaced by another part so im not sure how you would get a hold of a wedge anymore? perhaps they want us to replace the inside harness and gasket as the fix

so this is the new updated retaining wedge, it is much larger and fatter than the original clips.

thanks guys

having a really hard time finding a part number for the valve cover wedge that keeps the inside of the injector Harness from backing out of the valve cover connector. anyone know what the part # is? I thought it was a TSB back in the day but I cant find that either thanks Chris

Thanks guys its nice to have positive feedback from the community. Makes me more confident that im doing a good job

does anyone have or know the part number for the long snap-on T-40 socket that was made specifically for doing 6.0 fuel injectors? another tech would like to purchase one but we are having a hard time finding it.

well I decided to just snug up the t-27 bolts with my 1/4 inch ratchet and no more leaks. the only thing I had a little trouble with was the cold side plastic CAC tube. no matter what I did I couldn't get the plastic tube off either the charge air cooler or the manifold elbow. I ended up removing the four 8mm bolts from the elbow and just positioning the upper half of the tube to the side so I had full access to the pressure regulator cover plate. other than that it was very simple and straight forward. thanks for the help guys Chris

I always like to torque bolt that are sealing a fluid passage point especially. cant find any info in the WSM for a torque spec on the four T-27 plate bolts. it just says remove the bolt then at the end of the procedure it says "reverse the procedure to install" is there a torque spec? or just snug them and recheck for leaks when completed?

I have never done this repair personally but have seen it done on youtube (diesel tech Ron). I have a truck in right now that has a fuel leak coming from the gasket on the supply tube plate and I was considering selling the "blue spring" fuel update at the same time because I will be in there already. was this a TSB back then? is there anything written about it by ford? a how to install manual in the box? does anyone have any words of advice or tips or trick on doing this? thanks always Chris

so I lost my shirt on this job because I spent time making my own tools to first remove the lower torx-30 bolts on the right side head oil rail and second to remove the torx-40 injector hold down bolts on the injectors. I punched out the T-30 bit from the socket end. then I went to the stone wheel and ground down the bottom side of the bit until I had enough room to fit both the socket and my ratchet without contacting the evap box I used a cut off wheel and cut the end off an (allen key shaped) T-40 wrench. I then ground a square knotch into the bottom end of the t-40 and I hammered it into a bit socket. once again modifying it until it was at the right height to not contact the injector with the socket part. this is the end result. should make decent time on the next right head injector replacement job

we have a complete repair! I replaced all four injectors on the right side and fired it up. once the air worked its way out of the HPOR everything was smooth. took it for a drive and it had lots of power and started right up again this morning. told the customer that he may be back in a week/month/year for injector failure on the left side that we did not replace and he was fine with that.

So the customer has decided to go with option #2 (replace all four injectors on the right side bank) he is aware that he may have issues with the left side bank injectors sometime in the future because of the exposer to the gas but he is willing to roll the dice and perhaps replace all for left side when the time comes. I will do all four on the right side and update the results

that was exactly my thoughts when I first started seeing the same bank cylinders dropping one by one. I pulled the fuel filter out and connected the starter wire to the bat + and I didn't see any bubble forming in the fuel bowl. but that's not to say that once the vehicle warms up that the #7 injector ( one with the dead miss) is causing the others on that bank to bleed dry and begin to fall off. this guy is cheap (who isn't these days) I will just cover my ass and give him all three options 1) replace injector #7 and see what happens 2) replace all four on right bank and see what happens 3) replace all 8 and have piece of mind that you wont be back for failed injectors for a while ( and if you do they will be covered by 2 year parts warranty)

yes... your right I will recommend all 8 but give him the scenarios that if we do just 4 or just 1 that he could be back in a week/month/year to replace others due to failure caused by contamination

hey guys, I have my first gas in the fuel tank on a 6.0L. customer drove it hard until it died and then towed it to the shop. I pulled the fuel filler neck cap off and "pewww" what a stench of gas. I changed the fuel filters, sent 12v to the pump and drained out all of the contaminated fuel and added 50L of fresh fuel along with some cetaine and lubricity booster. when starting it. everything runs well except a dead misfire on cylinder 7. after a few min cylinder 3 drops out and then a few min later cylinder 1 & 5. After 5 min of running the vehicle, I loose the entire right bank. If I shut off the truck and then restart it a couple min later the process repeats itself (7 then 3 then 1&5) buzz test passes (all 8 click) Compression test (passes) I'm looking for anyone with experience with this... should I recommend replacing #7 which could be causing the issues on that bank, with the option of replacing the 3 others at the same time (let the customer decided)??? thanks always Chris