the_twig_187

so i was doing some research on claiming insurance for the dammages to my toolbox as a result of the fire at my shop. the key element is going to be the ryder in the insurance policy. if it states "replacement cost coverage" which is actual $ amount to purchase my toolbox brand new (which is approx $6,000 canadian + 13% sales tax = $6,800) or if it reads "actual cash value" which considers depreciation and will likely result in a fraction of the cost of my box.

ok so 18hrs was not far off for the labour then... i would consider breaking even on my first attempt to be a success... would certainly be much quicker and would do a few things differently next time for sure.

So the job is complete. I did not take the cab off, I just removed the EGR cooler and the PCV box and it gives you more than enough room to do the injectors. About the only thing that would be easier with the cab off would be the upper intake manifold (but I figured out if you remove the fuel filter holding bowl the manifold comes out like butter) The entire job from start to finish took me 21.5 hrs and I was able to have the service advisor bump it from 18 to 20hrs pay (I know it was my first time doing this job so I was a little bit slow but I still say 25hrs sounds about right for the amount of back bending work involved, including dropping the fuel tank and sucking it dry

a customer who bought a 2016 F-350 with a 6.7L two weeks ago, filled his fuel tank with gasoline and drove it until she quit. the shop foreman diag-ed it and sold the job at 18hrs. I have never replaced the complete fuel system on 6.7 so I'm just wondering what your thoughts are? job includes: 1) replacing all 8 fuel injectors 2) replacing HPFP 3) replacing both fuel rails and fuel supplies tubes 4) dropping the fuel tank and cleaning it out 5) replacing fuel filters 6) flushing lines from tank to the secondary fuel filter with fresh clean diesel fuel. Does 18hrs sound fair for this work? not sure as I have never done this before? (yes the fuel replacement kit was ordered that has all the replacement parts...why don't they include the intake manifold gaskets and various gaskets and O-rings that are clearly stated to be replaced when removed in the WSM in this kit?)

apparently "through the grapevine" this is not the first case of a 2016 Shelby burning down... KEEP THIS IN MIND!

just wanted to post and let eveyone know that if you dont have your own personal insurance on your toolbox and your tools, that they are not covered under your works insurnace policy. I just had my second fire in the past 3 years (twinhills ford in 2013)(campbell ford 2016). this time I do have a $10,000 insurnace plan that I pay for off every paycheck through my work. will be meeting with the insurance adjuster on monday. hopefully i will get a new toolbox but i think they are just going to wipe it with a damp rag and tell me to have a nice day. cause of the fire was a 2016 Shelby Mustang brought into the shop at 6pm to be PDI in the morning. around midnight it burst into flames by itself and took out 3 bays including mine. my toolbox is the gray classic 78

yes lol many brand new or very close to brand new pumps on both gas and deisel that are failing and causing low pressure

Pro Demand has it listed at 2.0 hrs including bleeding the pump free of air pockets.

ok good! this has confirmed my approach, i usually end up tightening the nut slightly more snug then finger tight and always with the wheel spinning and a good snug tightness at first to seat the bearings and then back it off for the final adjustment. you wouldnt be able to back off the nut with just your fingers but if you grab an adjustible plyers or a 27mm socket you just barly have to touch the nut and its off. this results in very minimal play when rocking the wheel at the top and bottom as if you were checking for ball joint deflection. I just wanted to confirm with others of greater experience levels than my own that this is an acceptable way of adjusting the bearings. thanks for the advise guys chris

just wondering what the consencus is on adjusting front wheel bearings on E-series vehicles. I know the work shop manual says like 18-24 inch pounds (or somethign like that) but when ever your checking the front end for ball joints you seem to have a lot of play with the wheel bearings. I have always put the wheel on and torqued (with a torque stick) then I​ adjust the 27mm nut to where I can feel minimal up&down play (which is usually a little bit more snug than finger tight) should I be doing it this way? how do you adjust front roller bearings? thanks Chris

my shop forman is really awesome about tools. he had a third party company come in and inventory all our tools, set them up on a computer program to log them in what tool room, what shelf and what case # the specific tools are in. then the tech signs out the tools and then signs them back in so if another tech has a press or something ect. you don't go looking for it, you can see his tech number. the forman also purchased this press tool for removing the side gear bearings without damaging them, so that's how we set up the diff. I think we ended up pulling the side gears off about 4-5 times before we got it right. it took about 20 hrs and I cant imagine doing it without the proper tools. you wouldn't make enough money to afford to eat the cardboard box that the mac&cheese came in lol

no... all the ring gear bolts were secure and accounted for, all the front cover bolts were secure and accounted for. the only thing we can think of is when they are assembled they are facing upwards and perhaps an extra cover bolt fell into the diff and continued down the line without anyone noticing. the truck was purchased in the summer time and we have had no snow up until last week, so the customer never turned on his 4x4 (the front diff had never turned and thus the bolt was sitting at the bottom of the diff) until last week when he turned on his 4x4 and started driving thus causing the bolt to get flung from the bottom and eventually into the ring gear and pinion. it was a bitch to put back together too, I don't know if anyone has experience working with Dana 60 front diffs but there are no side shims between the side gears and the carrier. the shims go under the side gears so any adjustments that needed to be made for backlash needed to have the bearings pulled off and then pressed back on again. I took me about 20 hours to complete everything and it paid a whopping 7.1

got a 2015 F-350 with 17,000km on it... only history on the vehicle is one FMPP oil change. customer complaining about a horrible grinding noise comming from the front end. roadtest and put it up on the host. removed the from drive shaft and turned the pinion flange by hand, it would turn smooth until a certain point in which it would bind up and could not rotate anymore (same thing in the other direction) removed the front axles and rotated the pinion again (same result) thus comfirming the issue is within the front diff. removed the front diff cover and found utter distruction! it appears a "bolt" had wedged itself inbetween the case and the ring gear causing the ring gear to distort and come in contact with the inside of the cover, the back of the carrier and broke off 3 teeth on the pinion gear... the only question is "where did this bolt come from"? all the ring gear bolts are accounted for, the diff pin is infact a "pin" and not a bolt, all the diff cover bolts were installed... i can only conclude that a bolt was left inside from assembly...weird

so there IS a TSB out now for this concern?

what model of transit did you have that you had to remove the diff cover to remove the axle? I repaired a transit 350 for breaking the left rear axle last week and i did not have to remove the diff cover to replace the axle. all I did was unbolt the 15mm bolts on the hub face and give it a couple taps with a hammer and the whole axle slides right out. same as a fully floating dana axle.

wow I'm surprised this didn't come sooner... its not the customers fault or the technicians fault that the spark plug design causes the tip to break off in the cylinder head

yah those top 3 bell housing bolts "would" be hard "if" you didn't have the snap-on bell housing extension. its a 3 foot long, black molybdenum extension with a 3/8th end for a socket to fit and the other end is a 1/2 inch drive... makes it a piece of cake to take out pesky bolts.

well this moring i got the joy of pulling out the transmission out of a 2015 transit 350 with a 3.5L Ecoboost. the vehicle was making grinding noises and the transmission tech couldnt lift the vehicle on his hoist because it is too large. overall the job is a royal pain in the ass (compaired to a econoline van) you have to drop the sub frame, a bunch of front end brace brackets, the steering rack and swaybar need to be swong to the front of the vehicle and positioned with a bungie cord. the only positive improvement I saw on this job (and this is a HUGE improvement) was the way they have secured the starter to the transmission. instead of having the bolts go forward towards the bellhousing (so you have to use a bunch of wobble sockets and the percise extensions in order to remove the bolts) they have just two bolts facing rearward (as if they were transmission bell housing bolts)...who ever thought of this at ford should be promoted to president! ok, well maybe not that high up but come on lol how hard would this have been for the engineers to have done years ago.

the cam bearing caps at the #9 and 10 cylinders were scored so I had to replace the head

this trend is starting to scare me a little bit. I have a 2015 F-550 with a 6.8L V10 with 28,000 km. there was a very loud tapping noise from the left cylinder head that got much worse when the vehicle was hot. I removed the valve cover and found the cylinder #9 intake rocker/roller arm bearing had completely seized and dragged the cam lobe across it. The best part about the job was the fact that this is a U-Haul vehicle and they have modified it and put a ramp on top, to use as a mini car carrier. this ment that I could NOT cab off to perform this procedure and that I had to pull the engine out the front in order to replace the cylinder head. The fun didn't stop there tho, because the car carrier brace was through the front bumper we could not remove either of them. With both of those in place it left me about 3 feet short with the engine crane to be able to hook onto the lifting bracket. thus, off to the machine shop to get an 8 foot long beam to use as a make-shift engine crane extension boom. Got the job done but it was a major pain in the ass... have seen two cylinder head component failures on brand new vehicle in the last month. anyone else seeing these?

today was a brutal electrical day that had me spinning right round baby, right round like a record baby. 2011 E-450 Ambulance comes in with door ajar light/ dome light on at all times and parking brake light on at all times. so I start by going into data logger to see which door is causing the ajar light. cannot communicate with the SJB. ppt "F" for no communication with SJB and conclude an internal fault within the SJB. replace the SJB and attempt to program. programing failed "can not communicate with the module. hum? load test power and 3 ground circuits in the SJB all test good. disconnect battery and test for resistance between pin 3 and 11 of the DLC, I get 60 ohms which is normal for the 120ohm terminal resistors that are wired in parallel in the circuit. then I test pin 3 and 11 for continuity between ground (short to ground) BOOM! I get 2.0ohms of continuity. so I have a short to ground on the med speed communication network circuit. ok so this is an ambulance, who knows what/where they have tapped into this connection. so I notice they relocated the ACM (radio) from the dash to the cup holder section of the dog house cover. so I follow the network wires from the DLC and they go right into the doghouse. I unwrap a large section of electrical tape and I find it. they needed to extend the harness to have it reach down to the doghouse and the guy who did the conversion did a pretty good job. he soldered the connections and placed heat shrink tubing on the wires. problem was he didn't apply heat to the heat shrink tubing! he just slipped the tubes on and wrapped the hole thing in electrical tape. so over time the heat shrink wiggled down and then came in contact with the "unshielded" radio antenna "ground" wire. A short to ground on this network will cause erratic behaviour in modules but will not necessarily bring down the network. this is more of a one-off concern but it had me spinning...helpful to know

currently in my bay is a 2008 e-450 with hot no start. air tested and heard a loud rush of air coming from the left valve cover. recommended doing both sides to ensure that the updated stand pipes and dummy plugs wouldn't be a failure at a future date. they approved the repair estimate and when I removed the left side standpipe I inspected it and didn't find any nicks or cuts in the O-rings. However, when I removed the dummy plug I found the lower seal completely cut in half and causing the pressure loss and the hot no start. I have also never actually seen a standpipe o-ring fail but I mean come on now, its 12hrs work on an "E" series. lets update both pieces and insure that the customer is not stranded in a hot no start in the future.

the kit is 6E7Z-9A332-B

I have always removed the cab for doing certain job on 6.4L and 6.7L engines. I was recently informed by another tech at a ford training course that he almost never removes cabs anymore and he just does a "partial" cab lift in order to access hard to reach components such as rear turbo flanges and up-pipe bolts ect... wondering if anyone is well versed in the "partial" cab lift and wouldn't mind explaining what they do and what steps they make? thanks Chris

hey Alex have never done a branch tube, trying to find it in the WSM just to see what's involved in the procedure but I cant seem to find it? does ford call it something else?