the_twig_187

I have a 2011 F-350 6.7L with 85,000 km and I have the feeling I' m going to replace the engine... codes for a misfire on cylinder 7, IDS compression test indicated a 10% loss on cylinder 7 with all other cylinders at 0% there is a noticeable knock as well when running the engine anybody have any experience with related issues?

yes we put a brand new (for test purposes) FICM and ICP sensor and it did not change the symptoms in any way at all. spoke to the customer on Thursday (today is Saturday)...told him to keep the costs down I will be putting in a little time here and there when I have down time over the next couple of weeks in order to try and diag these issues. he is in no rush as the truck as has been sitting at his yard for over 8 months. he said he doesn't want to dump a ton of money into it as this is starting to become a bit of a money pit but he still wants us to see if we can diag the cause of the hard starts and misfires and give him a quote on the repair costs.

lol well its kind of back together as the doghouse is still off and the loom is up... I feel like if I really worked at a steady pace I could get both valve covers off to connect shop air in about an hour...the only thing is that I already did a HP air test (with the covers on) and no audible air sound was heard at all...either way it seems like I'm going back into the valve covers so ill pull those and start there with an air test to see if I can hear an hp leaks...just thought if a leak was strong enough to stop two injectors that I would have heard something even with the covers on but ill remove the covers and air test and share my results

you are awesome! switched the ICP and noting changed does it sound like i have two separate issues here? could a weak HPOP cause two injectors to not fire? because thats my second concern, its plausable that the HPOP is weak and causing the long crank time, but what is causing injector 1&3 to dead miss before and after i installed new ford reman injectors and it pass' a buzz test?

wow! thank you for all that information... that was extreemly helpful...im going to see if parts will loan me a test ICP sensor as with what you just said I believe that it may be contrubuting as my ICPv is 0.25 while cranking for a long time (15sec) before it bumps up to 0.8v and then to 1.3v when running. I just am not sure if its ok to be running the vehicle for a period of time with only two functioning injectors on the right side. if there was a fuel pressure problem would it not affect all of the injectors on that bank? cylinders 5 and 7 run well and respond accordingly when commanded on and off in the power ballance test thank you for your help

the long crank problem with long ICP build time and cylinder 1&3 misfire were all present when the vehicle came in and are still there now. which is why im concerned about it. I have had the vehicle running for periods of time and as soon as i shut off the engine and attempt to restart the same long crank and extended ICP build time happens. not sure if the ICP and misfires are related but i have to fix one and see if the second follows. seems like the more important one to fix first would be the long ICP build time

I think I need to first address the long crank/ hard start issue... Going to remove the covers and hook up test adapters to test the high pressure oil pump and branch tubes

so i started the truck this morning while watching ICPv pid and while cranking for a long time (10sec) the voltage stays at .025v and then the pressure starts to build slowly 200-300-500-600 psi and thats when the icpv also starts to increase and once running the icpv is at 1.3v and the two cylinders 1&3 are still a dead miss. trying to hear any poping noises from teh valve train is kinda hard on a diesel engine (with it naturall being so loud) should i take off the cold side CAC tube and listen for poping noises such as a dammaged lifter?

No I have not let it run for very long at all. Just a mater of a few short moments as I didn't want to run it on six cylinders for fear that I may cause further damage. You suggest letting it run and heat up and increase the rpm to approx 3500 rpm for 5min?

So here is the whole story, truck has 450,000 km and has been sitting for over 8 months. Towed in for a no crank/ no start. Replaced the starter and we now have crank. Had to shoot ether in air intake to get it to start and run. Once running we discovered the oil leak pouring from the oil pressure sensor. Fixed the sensor and now we have no oil leak. Truck still won't start on its own and must use ether. Once running cylinder 1&3 are a dead miss. Did the buzz test and condemned injector 1&3. Replaced all four on right bank and dummy plug and standpipe are updated T-12 style. Reassemble and truck now starts on its own but cylinder 1&3 are still a dead miss. This is where we are at now. The dummy plug was previously updated to the T-12 but the standpipe was not so I did the upper standpipe. Icp-v= 0.25v with the key on engine off. I will start it again tomorrow and let you know what happens to icpV during cranking and while it's running Thank you guys so much for the help I really appreciate it

Ahhh dam... I thought we had something there

very interesting.... (rubbing thumb and index fingers on chin and closing eye lids slightly) I replaced the upper standpipe section with the new T-12 style plug but I DID NOT replace the lower half of the standpipe due to the fact that I have never even heard of them failing before. I will update you guys tomorrow when I crank while closely viewing the IPC voltage and possible going into the right valve cover again "uhhhhhh"

no abnormal noises are heard when the vehicle is running other than the heavy misfire from two dead cylinders on the right bank. here is what the PIDS read when I'm cranking the engine FICM-m-power= 48v FICM-SYNC=yes IPR=85% ICP= starts at 0 and over the course of 10 seconds builds to approx 1000psi and then the truck starts(when shut off pressure returns to 0 in a matter of seconds) ICP-V=0.25v ICP-Desired=3000psi cylinder 1 and 3 are the two front cylinders on the right bank, could they be starving for high pressure oil because the pump is not creating enough volume? this is my first real tricky repair and I'm trying to do a proper diag and take care of the customer responsibly as the customer brought the vehicle to us from another dealer that he lost trust in as they just threw parts at this trying to fix it and after 5 grand the truck still would not start (they replaced EGR cooler and oil cooler). I called hotline and they said to pull both valve covers and do a bunch of pre test steps (like remove the crank sensor, unplug FICM relay ect...) and then test the high pressure pump and the branch tubes. anybody have any ideas?

yes I ran a buzz test just after putting the injectors in so that I didn't reassemble and run into this... did a buzz test after everything was put back togeather and all 8 buzz the exact same a one another??? a lifter gone bad would cause a compression loss on those affected cylinders, no ?

so I have replaced all four injectors on the right bank as per the customers request. cranked the engine and this time it started all on its own, BUT its running like a bag. hooked up the ids and cylinder 1 and 3 are down again!!! four new injectors, buzz test is good ( all 8 respond) and relative compression test is good with only a 1% difference on cylinder 2. im stumped??? what could be causing a dead miss on those cylinders?

Good question...I'm kinda stuck in a pickle as another tech removed the cab 2008 F-450, to replace the right side turbo pipe as the egt sensor broke off. Now he has gone on vacation for 2 weeks and I have been tasked with putting everything back together. I was given an empty air filter box with 100 different bolts and nuts and was pointed in the direction of the truck and told "giver!" I have never removed a cab before and did not see this one taken appart so I'm a little intimated at this point

I had thought that I came across a very good, very detailed cab off instruction/ walk through guide on the forum a little while ago and now I can't seem to find it anywhere? Does anyone know where it is or if they have a link to a good video or guide for cab removal? Thanks Chris

Just trying to gather the sockets required to remove the upper and lower ball joint nuts on e & f series trucks... If someone knows the socket sizes, would grately appreciate it as I will head to the store and purchase them... Also any tips and tricks/ press adapters ect I'm all ears thanks for the help Chris

Okay so I was on the right track all along... Just had to keep jacking up the engine and crack, it separated and now the engine is leaned and cover is off/ injectors replaced and all is good

so from what I have described what would you suggest? repositioning my lifting point to under the bell housing and try to lift the engine again?

I'm doing a fuel injector on a 06 E-450 on the right bank (cylinder #3). I'm at the point where the left side engine mount lower half (the half closer to the frame not the half touching the block) has to be removed so the right side will drop to the middle allowing removal of the right side valve cover. I have removed all four 13mm bolts on the lower engine mount (left side) and I have removed the two 18mm nuts on the drivers side and on the passengers side. I put a block of wood under the crankshaft pulley and began to jack up the engine to remove the mount. Except, when I jacked the bottom of the crank pulley the entire chassis lifted with the engine. I went under to see if the engine was separating from the frame and it didn't move a single mm. I thought perhaps the engine was getting caught on the stud sticking down vertically from the top of the mounts. so I took a 8mm socket and removed both vertical studs on both side of the vehicle and then attempted to lift it again and same thing... the engine and chassis begin to lift as one and wont separate. this is only the 2nd time I have done this and it has been a while since the last time. I 'am I missing something? what else could be holding the engine and chassis together so tightly that when jacking the engine from under the crank pulley or with a block of wood on the bottom of the oil pan, the engine and chassis lift together and wont separate? any help is greatly appreciated Chris

hey guys I have an odd one here, we have seen 3 others exactly like it in the past few weeks and are stumped. the upper rad hose on the 6.7 is completely collapsed (like you were to pull a vacuum on the cooling system) then we get a code for ECT because the sensor is not submerged in coolant due to the collapsed upper hose. asked a few guys at ford school if they have seen this or what the cause could be and even the teacher was scratching his head. just wondering if anyone else has seen this and what could be causing it? we have been changing the upper hose and the degas bottle caps and have not seen any of the trucks return thanks Chris

Vehicle is no longer leaking oil but has a dead miss on cyl 1,3.... Recommended all four on the right bank and dummy plug and standpipe if not allready done...waiting for approval

so I think I found the source of the leak, the oil pressure sensor which is mounted on top of the oil cooler housing seems to have a lot of oil around the sensor body and the wiring harness plugging into the sensor is wet with oil

ahh I wish it was that but I air tested the system and no leaks were found. but when running the vehicle is when the stream of oil starts to flow from the front down to the bell housing