the_twig_187

Have a 06 E-450, takes a long time to build up icp pressure (crank for over 10 sec) in order to start. Once started there is a steady flow of oil running down the edge of the left head (where the head meets the block in the valley) just wondering if there are any common leak spots such as turbo o-ring or such items? Going to move the turbo to get a better view but I don't want to over look something during the removal process Thank guys

Yah that was it... At 5:30 pm I put the calipers upside down so an air pocket was at the top... Guy pointed it out to me in the morning and we all had a good laugh

another tech in the shop did a break job on the service managers ranger a month ago. he gave it to me and said he is having break pulsations and to take a look at it. I found that the right side caliper had a large chunk taken out of the piston ( compressed with channel locks) and the left side also had a chunk taken out of the piston. I replaced the calipers as I normally would have, I pinched the line with needle nose vice grips that had pieces of vacuum line on the teeth not to damage the flex hose. When I reassembled it and went to bleed the brakes, the pedal went straight to the floor. I bled all four brakes and the bleeder screw on the master cylinder and still the break pedal goes straight to the floor. when I was bleeding there was no air that came out of any of the brakes during the bleeding. the master cylinder is filled to the full line and when the brakes are pumped the master cylinder reservoir fluid goes down and then when pumping stops the reservoir over flows with brake fluid. I have no clue what is going on here things I have done to attempt to correct the break pedal to the floor issue: 1) bleed all four brakes and the master cylinder bleeder screw 2) adjust the parking brake shoes to the edge of the drums 3) check for leaks (no leaks found) anyone got any ideas?

I have done 3 of these in the past 2 weeks... I tried to just hammer on a 12mm socket ( rusted 13mm nut) but ended up breaking 3 studs clear off In the head which I had to drill out... I have found the best way is to get a block of wood and prop it against the trans pan (remove the engine mount bolts) and heat the nuts to attempt to not have the studs break off flush in the head. If only the nuts come out but the studs stay in, this is ok as with the engine lifted on an angle you will have enough room to get the manifold out then you can remove the studs with a stud puller tool (ex: Mac SR4MA) But to each there own

As of April 16th IDS 90.00 now works with windows 8.1 ( a free upgrade from windows 8) the wireless VCM now functions properly the way it was intended to in the first place

Yah I feel weird about it because I'm the new tech on the block and it's a shop tool not my personal tool

We do but it tends to wonder and come back broken like all the other shop tools at Donway lol you know how it is

So I have confirmed this morning that with the new IDS 90.01 softwear update, the VCM 2 will now work wirelessly with the Microsoft surface pro 2 tablet. Previously the VCM one would work as a hardwired connection but the VCM 2 would not due to softwear issues that have now been corrected with IDS 90

Wow I had no idea they were that bad!

If you overlay that wire from the PCM to the bcm will the concern continue?

Very true, I was doing fuel injectors on a 6.0 E-350 and could torque the injectors no problem with a 3/8 torque wrench but to get to the lower hpo manifold torx bolts you can't get a torque wrench on it due to clearence

But, if you had the ability to do so and it functioned correctly, would you?

I hear quite a lot of good reviews and seldom hear a negative one, and of the negative responses for the older model (shutting off, battery cap unscrewing) have been fixed with the latest newest model... What really intrigues me about it is the compacity to torque in multiple measurement scales= Nm, Ft lbs, In lbs, angle

For every good honest mechanic there are 20 hacks that view every vehicle as a blank check

I have been looking into purchasing a (new) snapon techangle torque wrench but have some reservation about some of the reviews and was wondering if anyone has any personal experience with it? I am looking at the newest model with all black handle and led lights ( the previous model is red and does not have leds) the main question i have is the 3/8 th has a compacity of 5-100 ft lbs so if you are torqing a head bolt to 90 ft lbs and then are required to torque an additional 90 degreese you will far surpass the 100 ft lbs range and the wrench will shut off. Im not sure if the newer model is affected in this way like the old model was? Any reviews good or bad would be appreciated Thanks Chris

all i see it as is that the VCM is a cable (pathway) from the DLC on the vehicle to the computers USB port. if the cheeper knockoff works at connecting the vehicle to computer then im happy. if they dont work and have connection problems then I would have to go for a rotunda one but if it works then i have no problem with saving $600+ and getting the knock off modle...besides our shop has the legitamate rotunda vcms and we have nothing but problems, always have to unplug the usb and plug it back in to get a connection.

I have been looking into purchasing a IDS capable device for myself and came across the idea of the Microsoft surface pro 2 after using it at ford school ( ford asset apprenticeship at centennial college) the surface pro 2 is the only tablet that can run the IDS soft wear because it runs a full version of windows 8.1. We used it for testing various pre-rigged concerns with demo vehicles in class and I thought it was really cool. The Panasonic tough book laptop retails for $3,300 (can) and the surface pro 2 retails for $1200 which is a significant savings! A VCM 2 retails for approx 250-300$ on eBay/amazon and a one year subscription for the IDS softwear is approx $600 a year ( which I would have my dealer pay for) you can also run 3 devices off of one softwear licence so if your shop only has one IDS you can have potentially two more for no additional cost. So to summaries 1) Microsoft surface pro 2 = $1200 2) VCM 2 = $250-300 3) IDS subscription 1 year =$600 ( dealer paying ) Total cost : approx $1550 Does it sound worth it or a waste of money?

I have one sitting in my bay at this very moment, was leaking at the left front tank crimp like all the others.I have done 3 of them in the past and can have the primary rad out with the secondary out the a/c evacuated and the p/s cooler just positioned to the side in 1hr... you will need a flex head wrench to get some of the tricky 8mm bolts on the back side of the primary rad but thats about the only hangup... very easy job