mchan68

It ended up being easier than that Aaron. I began a new session and did a PATS erase and reset. I then deleted that session and resumed the incomplete session where all this bullshit began and now life is good again. It still boggles my mind how the IC just mysteriously failed from just sitting inside the shop over the weekend with NOTHING touched. The bigger issue, is the fact the cluster is NOT covered under warranty, and having to explain that they need to pony up for the repair without them thinking I fucked it up somehow (which I have no problem owning up if that was the case).

EC3Z-9B246-A is the part number for the entire kit. I would also appreciate if anyone of you fine gents would be willing to take pictures of everything included in this kit for future reference.

Well, the new cluster arrived. As soon as I plugged it in, BAM!!! the chimes and all warning indicators came back to life. Now, I have to find a way to re-load the calibration back into the PCM. It seems to resume communication with the PCM after playing around with IDS a bit, but the engine won't crank with the key, or start using the jump starter with the key in the RUN position. I'll assume I need to do a PATS parameter reset perhaps??? And all it did was drive into the shop and sit through all weekend that caused the cluster to blank out?

That's C220 (instrument cluster) and C251 (DLC). And yes I did check the 3 connectors on the framerail. I even checked the infamous chafe point.

It doesn't have a trailer brake controller, factory or aftermarket. The 120 ohm reading was obtained once I unplugged C220 (the instrument cluster connector).

...... and pass gas too, at the appropriate times though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb5q2eie4ko Wooowwwww!!!!!! Are they really airing this shit on television these days? That was one minute of my life I'm never going to be able to get back.

You can probably buy some glow wires, cap and rotor to go along with them too.

Okay, I'm not sure where to post this but since it originally came in for a rough running concern, I'll post it here. Vehicle is a 2008 F-350 Cab & Chassis with a box and powered lift if it matters. Vehicle started and ran fine. Brought it into the shop and ran a self-test. Only DTC retrieved was P1335 by itself. Verified EGR valve faulty when EGR VP indicated 3.32 volts at KOEO. Ordered part Friday. Since then, the truck sat inside the shop in one of my bays, never being so much as having the engine started, let alone moved. This morning, when the part arrived, I installed the EGR valve and attempted re-run a self-test and clear the DTC. When I went to turn the key to the RUN position, only the air bag warning indicator illuminated, I get no PRNDL, or any other warning lights, nor chimes. Thinking I had a low voltage issue, I checked the batteries and they're fine. I even jumped the starter wire and the engine cranks nice and fast. Checked pins 6 AND 14 of the DLC, and get 58.3 ohms. Finally, I ran a Network Test, and I'm getting IC: FAIL, PCM: FAIL, U2011 ABS, U0115 ABS, U0155 ABS, ABS: PASS, GEM/SJB: PASS, RCM: PASS and TCM: PASS. Unplug C220 and the reading goes to 120 ohms, which is normal if I understand correctly. Checked C220-7 and C220-8 for continuity to C251-6 and C251-14 which checked out good. C220-1 and C220-14 have 12 volts, and C-220-6 has good ground. Next step says replace IC. I don't buy it!!! I repeat, NOTHING was touched on this truck from the Friday morning, until this morning when the EGR valve arrived. Now, apparently I have a blanked PCM and IC?!!!!

Oh my God. Just by the actions of ONE stupid employee, this business is going DOWN: https://www.google.ca/?gws_rd=cr&ei=L97SUs3TMcS7rgGcs4DIDA#q=first+state+chevrolet+reviews&lrd=lrd

It ceaselessly amazes me how just a select few immature yahoos can really give us dealership employees a big black eye. Read on, gentlemen: http://ca.autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/chevy-camaro-zl1-owner-fights-dealership-totaled-car-170136602.html http://jalopnik.com/dealership-totals-customers-camaro-zl1-owner-and-deal-1498804012

That looks exactly like one I had years and years ago. It came towed in diagnosed as a bad starter by another shop. Sure enough, after an unsuccessful repair, upon replacing the starter what you posted above was exactly what I had. Upon replacing the flexplate, was when the post-repair road test revealed an extremely harsh shifting transmission which was I surmised had caused the failure in the first place.

GREEN coloured oil cooler cover seals? I don't think I've ever heard of or even seen these before.

I run 1/5th of PM-22-B and 1/5th of PM-23-B on every one of my fillups. I find it difficult to believe how such a small quantity of each of those additives can have any effect on such a relatively large quantity of fuel.

Ummmm okay. For a minute, I thought you meant Pop's corn.

I noticed some blue engines along with some 6.0L engines in the video that appear to originate from medium duty applications, which makes me wonder if they are the same outfit that remanufactures all of the engines for Navistar as well.

Oh it sure has been cold the last couple of days. As far as snow is concerned, well I'm waiting to put my newly acquired beast to the test.

Do you have a part number for this kit, and the place where you sourced the kit? It's obvious that such kits don't exist from Ford. BTW, judging by the condition of the rail and injector in your pics, this vehicle likely didn't have oil changes done on schedule, likely leading to the cause of said failures in the first place.

Please do report your findings on this, since I have had many trucks coming in with this particular DTC set as well (including my own truck) that I've never had to dive any further into, due to no driveability or starting issues present.

Merry Christmas Aaron, and everyone else on DTS. And thanks for thinking of me. Yes, I lost power for about 24 hours, but it came back late last night. Right now, as of this writing there probably quite a few in Toronto itself still without power. Warming centers are probably still pretty full.

In answer to your question, yes I do. This sounds EXACTLY like one I had towed into me a while back. I couldn't communicate with IDS. After ohming pins #6 and #14 and getting 120 ohms, confirming there was a module offline, it turned out to be a green deathed network wire under the driver's door opening scuff plate. THAT, took a lot of my time to pinpoint. Something else you need to be aware of, is if this vehicle doesn't have the factory trailer brake control option, the connector to it is still present and plugged into the blank plastic trim piece. In that connector is also the HS CAN + and HS CAN - circuits dead ended into it. I also had an issue a long while back where an aftermarket installer had installed an aftermarket trailer brake controller into this circuit by snipping the wires off this connector cutting off the SJB out of the equation in the process, and in turn causing a no-crank no-start that had to be towed into me.

Frame replacement.

Morbid obesity.

Are Chrysler 2.7L V6 engines garbage?