mchan68

I have 2006 F-Series here, in for its yearly inspection. One of the requirements for it to pass, is to have a functioning horn. On this particular unit, the horn switch is stuck ON. It appears Ford in their infinite wisdom has now offered a kit (6C3Z-13B802-C) to repair the switch, so as to avoid having to replace the entire driver air bag assembly which is a good idea. BUT, the "kit" prices out at $582.79 while the whole entire air bag itself prices out at $651.08!!! I'm sure many of you have crossed this bridge by now. Anyone care to comment? WTF???

The field highlighted in bold red is what I'm noticing seems to be the more frequently required regularly removed item on these trucks for any type of servicing of engine components on these engines, or is it just me? My biggest pet peeve thus far are those damn plastic insulator shield retainers. Hard as hell to remove, not to mention being in difficult to access areas. Sorry for the hijack.

God I miss those years in school. Good times fly by .....

It's an '06 so it has a Torqshift, not a 4R100. This means the TR sensor is internal, and requires manual lever removal to replace if I'm not mistaken. What may I ask is the reason for replacement?

I personally know someone who has had his hour meter maxed out at 9999 hours for quite some time too. Not only that, but he has a Lariat truck with the cluster that can be switched between (kms.) and (miles). When switched to (kms.), it reads 999,999 and won't go any higher (even though he has a lot more than that). I believe he is somewhere at about 800,000 miles. For those of you wondering, the vehicle being referenced is a 2006 F-350 6.0L.

Okay, I get to get my hands dirty on my first 6.7L with a P2291 set. This truck came in on the hook after it quit while driving, or so the story goes. No other DTCs set. Performed PPT 'M'. Replaced PCV per test step after observing no change in flow while toggling PCV % between the lowest and highest duty cycle (with VCV % commanded to the lowest duty cycle). Repaired that issue, but still no-start and FRP psi peaks out at 230 psi while cranking. Performed next step which is to toggle VCV % between the lowest and highest duty cycle (with PCV % commanded to the lowest duty cycle). No change in flow observed. Next step is to remove the VCV for inspection and this is what it looks like: Anyone else ever seen anything like this before? Fuel does not appear contamination with gasoline, water or DEF. Primary filter does not appear overly dirty either. So am I going to need to replace the entire high pressure fuel system by the looks of things? More important question will be if this repair is going to be warrantable?

Our fleet truck sales manager actually had the balls to ask if I would sign off on one that I had quoted a complete high pressure fuel system replace, that ended up being "repaired" elsewhere, but I had already filed a CuDL on the VIN due to the customer declining us to repair.

Yes, I've seen their ad posted on Kijiji numerous times but I think they are asking outrageous prices. Something like $2500 for a set of four rims on tires.

Takes longer to drain the cooling systems that it does to remove the cooler now. That was the first thing I noticed on my first one yesterday. Oh well, live and learn. In goes another "6.7L gravy train job" to file away in the memory bank.

Methinks once you pull the left bank of injectors, the cause of your no-start issue will be very obvious by what you describe (one or two injector(s) with blown lower o-ring(s) and blackened). Not that I am too familiar with diagnosing these things.

You pity the demise of that which you despise with such disdain? But not the gassers.

That was the whole point of this thread. Maybe I'm just stuck in the dark ages with my tastes, being used to a body-on-frame rear wheel drive V8 kind of person that I am. I understand the need for fuel economy in this day and age, but is it going to come at the expense of reduced performance, reliability and vehicle longevity? As far as we've already discussed, the E-Series isn't going to be discontinued outright when the 2014 Transit full size is released, but Ford should really keep their options open during this transition. I don't know about all of you, but we are still selling a lot of fleet E-Series. If E-Series sales remain on this steady trend, while the Transit full size sales FLOPS during introduction, Ford should really re-evaluate discontinuing it. Look at what happended to the Sprinter. I don't know much about them (okay, I know NOTHING about them), but if the Transit full size follows that same trend, what then? Look at the Ford Five Hundred that was intended to replace the Taurus. What about discontinuing the Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Town Car line? THAT, has to be Ford's BIGGEST mistake right there. I can only imagine how many police forces and airport limo companies nationwide have protested that business move, 'cause to me the Taurus and Explorer cop car package as well as the Lincoln MKT livery models sure aren't cutting it.

Mine is an '07 6.0L with a December 2006 build date. No offense, but I declined on the idea of getting a 6.4L for numerous reasons, even though I could've scored one when I bought my truck for around the same price. The ONLY way I'll be parting with my truck is if it were to be within my means to end up with a '12 or newer 6.7L, the chances of which will likely be NONE.

What size rims did yours come with originally? 18s? Were they steels or aluminums? My eventual plan is to have 20s for summers and 18 steels with snows on them for the winter.

I get to attack my very first one tomorrow. But this one did set a P2457 during KOER.

So this is what is going to be competing with our forthcoming Ford full-sized Transit? http://www.allpar.com/trucks/ram/ProMaster.html I'm not so sure a FWD application would be up to the task in a 1/2 ton application, let alone a one ton. Maybe it's just me, but I kind of feel the powertrain choices leave a little to be desired. Being the very first "full sized" Dodge van to ever offer a diesel engine option, I get the impression a 4 cylinder diesel will be a little underpowered for the task being demanded by this type of market.

Damn you Aaron!!! I'm looking for a set of 20s for my truck.

The portion highlighted in bold says it all. Probably some black dude that owns it, wanting to "bling it up" by making it look stupid like that. Those kind of guys are the ones that like to drive expensive vehicles but don't have a pot to piss in. It's likely on your doorstep because it doesn't drive. It had to have been badly neglected because those cars are probably the best cars FoMoCo ever made.

Better you than me on those two. I've certainly been getting quite the shaft lately here with warranty engines, one of which should definitely not have been warranty but I won't go there for now.........

Anybody else having any issues trying to update to 85.03? I have been trying the last few hours and I keep getting the pop-up window to tell me to close Internet Explorer before continuing that won't go away, even though I don't have it open. It then goes on to complete the process, but when I attempt to load up IDS it either loads up 85.02 or won't load at all. When checking for updates, it still shows 85.03 as available.

Not saying I would go out of my way to swap it out. But I do happen to have a good 6.4L cam in my possession, as well as 16 good lifters I could use/sell to some sorry guy to help save on some costs if he needed it.

Just curious. Can a camshaft from a 6.4L be used in a 6.0L? If so, has anyone ever tried? And if so, is there any noticeable change in performance. Comparing the specs between the two, the intake and exhaust valve lift specs only vary by about just less than 0.1mm for both.

Good to know I'm not the only one. I vividly remembered changing out a window regulator on a '98 Windstar some time back in 2001 at one dealer I worked at. Just about the exact same scenario you described, happened to me too. It sure left a nice trail of blood as I held it, trying to get to a first aid kit as fast as I could at the time. Five stiches later and I was back in the game the next day. I never forgot that one.

My point in posting this thread is to suggest that on all the early HPOPs that get returned for core credit could/should have this or similar "upgrade" during the rebuild process to prevent a future such failure after resale.

Well guys, I have to give this guy some credit where credit is due. At least he not only managed to repair his '03 HPOP, but probably even increased its reliability and service life a little, with the mod. Read on: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/48791-Update-Ford-6-0-hpop-fix