Aaron

The latest calibration for the 6.0 is great. I just did out shop truck in the fall (early-build 03 with an ass-load of miles on it) and it runs like a raped ape.

I just saw DPF/DPF Delete and didn't look at what forum it was in. Yeah, I've seen that also. If it makes 800FT-LBS and gets 16mpg, what more do you want?

I have been fairly successful at keeping belts on to the 7500RPM range, so that would get me through the burnout and to about the 330' mark

And I think the problematic part with the front bolts, anyone noticed that they're loctited, as WELL as painted?

I wonder what the fuel looks like coming out of the cooler at the back, with the block-off tool/bypass hose in place?

Must be the salt belt thing....

I've never gotten them out without breakage, ever. Especially the front two.

What is the low side fuel pressure KOEO?

I'd go get my notes, but they're waaaaaaaaay over there.

Rear axle chatter TSB.. Already a TSB and the truck ain't even on the lot yet LOL. Add friction modifier.

Now that it works, HOLY SHIT! That's gonna bust your gauge, that's crazy! Wonder if the HPFP is contributing to this somehow... Pump leaking internally, check valve or something, I dunno. It sounded like it made sense in my head. IIRC, I think the teach told us that the lift pump on the 6.4 only hangs out like ~15psi.

I've never been able to get Youtube videos to work either, don't feel bad LOL You can host 'em on Photobucket, too, but unless you have the 'Pro' version, there is a bandwidth limit, but it's fairly high. I think it's only ~15 to upgrade to pro?

Electric water pump, no alternator but I am going to need to figure out some sort of charging system...need to keep voltage up to support the ignition system at that RPM. I have a 357" motor that I'm putting in the car as a starter, the little screamer I will need to buy a LOT of extra supporting parts for. I already have the converter, trans, and rear-gear for the car and the 357 with the dual plane intake on it runs out of pull around 6700-7000rpm, and the car has a 3500 converter in it right now, so it combos out pretty well. If I wanted to step up to a 5000 converter and a little more gear, I could put a single plane intake on it and probably pick up a little more power, but the low-end would suffer, and if I'm going to be buying a torque converter, I'm going to buy it once for the comp motor. And with the vortec heads on the 357, I am limited to only one or two intake choices for a single plane, and they are both Super-victor style ones, with the huge runners, for 5000RPM - up... I think a Victor Jr. would be a better choice, but unfortunately they don't offer it with the vortec bolt pattern.

Lisle kit for $90?! Holy shit... Is this a new tool? Why so much? Or just capitalizing because there was a memo that went out to all tool dealers saying "Hey guys! The Ford techs are gonna need this!" I have a couple of these from working at a transmission shop, GM uses them for trans cooler lines, you know, the ones touch with the tool, and the clip fucks off to over to "see ya in hell, ya rat bastard". Usually the Lisle stuff is the lowest priced stuff on the truck, shit you can even get it at Princess Auto around here!

Have you made any headway with repairs? Did you measure the fuel pressure on the pump outlet at the HFCM also?

That shows up as a private video, Keith:

Yep. Cab mount bolts, too, at 5000kms, out, and anti-seized.

Also noticed I have replaced a run of the 03-04 pumps also, not sure if they are any different. I can tell you the part number does update, but aside from that I'm not 100% sure. Physically, they didn't appear much different when I had 'em on the bench.

Put the latest Ford cal in it, you'll like it.

We had my small inch comp eliminator-style small Chevy running last weekend. It stopped pulling at 11,600. You guys oughta hear it. It's going in an off-road vehicle, since I think the RPM that that thing turns would get me in a little trouble driving through town.

I've seen a lot of the old style HPOP's cause all sorts of fucked up driveability concerns recently, also. Last one I did I took it apart to see what things were all about in there, it had about 160k miles on it, and the truck was in my stall for a no-start. The plungers/pistons in the pump, 2 or 3 of them you could put your finger over the inlet and push the piston down, and the spring wouldn't push the piston back out because your thumb would keep the seal. The rest of them were really, really wore out and you could almost rock them back in forth in their bores they were in such tough shape. FWIW, the last two I put in, I tapped the hole in the pump that has the check-ball in it, and put a pipe plug in it, to prevent a further failure or the ball falling out and flying around in the rear geartrain. I of course have done this with the customer's knowledge, since I had one that I fixed awhile back that the ball had fallen out of and was never located. Customer did not want to spend lots of time and money for me to tear it down looking. There's two trans pan magnets epoxied to the bottom of his oil pan to catch any errant check-balls

Wondering, how much extra flyback voltage the extra 10v creates? Does it alter the amperage draw? I mean, we're adding 20 percent more voltage... Wonder if there's any longevity concerns with the injectors?

So it's not an o-ring, but a noise insulator I wonder what the longevity of that o-ring will be if that regulator seat moves around enough for it to nibble away at it.

I think I fucked up and mixed up which one you wrote down, cab & chassis/pickup.

I would also think with less power/torque output the engine emissions would also be different, as well, possibly not requiring as much heat, or producing more/less emissions depending on load/speed/etc. This kinda makes sense in my head, but it may not make too much sense to someone reading this on the other end of the 'puter.