cbriggs

How about premature wear? If any part of an engine "wears out" within the warranty period it would be considered a defect, no?

Well I broke ground today. Site is prepped, Footings are dug, now to get some concrete in the ground. It will be an L shaped garage, overall footprint is 36' x 36', 15' ceiling hieght in one side and 11' in the other, with a 14' x 36' storage lean-to on one side. I will upload some pics once its at the point of resembling something, other than a bunch of dirt.

I beleive there are seperate labour ops now as well for each spun cage nut, depending on what row it is in.

Same with a sledding forum I used to belong to. So much lousy advise and more arguing over who's advise is wrong,right or better. I gave it up.

I lost my vacuum guage, for over 2 years I managed without it, found it T-ed into the pvh system of a (thankfully) returning customers superduty almost 2 and a half years later. I lost a 16mm crowfoot line wrench undoing the ebp tube nut on a 6.0l when doing exhaust manifold gaskets. Found it 4 years later when doing head gaskets on same truck. A few months ago I left my 18" needle nose pliars under a car, test drove and parked the car. (At this point I didnt even know they were missing) The towns street sweeper pulled up infront of the bays, the driver held up the pliers and said "who's CB?". I have about 14 flat blade el cheapo screwdrivers I have found under hood, and a few chineese sockets. Never anything good.

Not sure on an 08, but the 05 style has a filter screen in the reservoir. I have seen them get restricted and make pump do weird things, including make bubbles in the reservoir.

Anybody notice how the secondary rad is not covered up by the a/c condensor and exposed thru the center hole of the front bumper? Neither did I until I had one with a rock hole in the secondary rad. $997 for a secondary rad. I will be suggesting a mesh cover to anybody driving on gravel roads or in the winter now.

I wonder if it could be from the overflow hose. There is no bottle on the secondary overflow, just a small hose elbow that dumps coolant besided the air box.

Yep, once your IDS version is too old it dissallows programming.

Quote: I inspected the oil cooler and found no sludge like you might with a 6.0L cooler but I did find a lot of rust particles in the bottom of it. The consistency of granules, dark brown almost flakes... like you might find in one of Fords rusty fuel tanks! I had a 6.ol with a p012f today and the cooler looked just like yours Keith. Mine looked like it was being topped up with orange or pink coolant, not sure if that was related.

Ya , I just figured out today that you can do that. Definatly the better way to go.

Are they still using the maf sensor as a critical input to dpf load calculations? If so it caused alot of problems on a few 6.4s I've seen.

Quote: so you may be able to slow the fast truck down. Just dont dare tell the customer thats what you did.

I ran it on an 07 s-d 6.0l for cranks ok, no start-cold. (text book ficm failure) No tsb's. Hmmm, I'm sure there was a ficm tsb the other day. Weird. So I went back and re ran it cranks ok, no start -always. Magicly the ficm tsb pops up. Pretty sure 95% of ficm concerns are hard start /no start cold. I think (hope?)they still have some work to do on this setup.

We bill 1.0 diag for anything that the IDS gets plugged into or anything electrical. 1.5 for any diesel diag and extra if it gets into thing like hp oil leak tests or compression tests. To change a/c belt from below: remove 2 lower fan shroud bolts, (can also remove steering shock and ground cable for more room) release big belt tension w/ 3/8" flex head ratchet, (gets jammed against water pump after belt is off, I just leave it there until reassebly) flip big belt off of crank pulley and move it aside. Release a/c belt tension with a 3/8 ratchet and 3" extension. (or cut old belt to remove) To install a/c belt I put a peice of pipe on my ratchet that is holding the tensioner, and then loop a camlock tiedown around the pipe to the lh frame rail, this frees up both hands to install the belt. Reinstall big belt and anything else removed. I have also changed the outer belt tensioners and belts this same way. We subscribe to mitchell ondemand 5 online. I think its about $100 to $150 per month. Well worth it if you do lots of off brand work or lots of retail. Allows you to print part and labour quotes, uses full colour wiring diagrams. For the most part their labour times are on the generous side. Repair info leaves a bit to be desired on some stuff. The estimator side has quick and easy part lookup, lots of times I get a part # from there faster than the parts guy can look it up, and the pricing on ford parts is deadly accurate( to the msrp price)

Also check for desbris in the cooling stack, that could be restricting airflow thru condensor. If possible watch guages while driving to see if they become more normal, indicating airflow concern. Based on your pressures it seems overcharged or overheated.

I've done as many with broken rh manifold bolts as I have up pipes. (one truck was both at same time)

Mitchell on demand shows rad re and re (auto trans) 3.5hrs, t-stats re and re 3.0 hrs, and a/c belt re and re at 3.2. I'm assuming you did all 3 at once? I would probably bill rad re and re with a combination for the a/c belt of .5 or so and the t-stats at .7 or so. (FWIW I have changed an a/c belt from below in .4)

Programmer?

Fort mac it is. I know a guy that moved up there with a construction company, told me its not a bad place to live. I've never been past edmonton myself. I guess thats (read as the realestate cost) why lots of patch workers buy 40'travel trailers and live in them hey?

Quote: Your guess is as good as mine. Considering the difference between changing some injector hold down clamps and major engine damage and repairs it might be a smart thing for Ford to do. I wonder if the bad pr of another "ford diesel engine recall" would weigh in their decision on this?

Quote: Besides, I'm not sure I could find another shop that fits me as good as this one. Thats partly what its about, If you like where you work and the guys you work with, why move? A few dollars or better benefits may not be worth the stress of not liking your work environment. I saw an ad for dealers north of you Jim offering $67.75/ hr flat rate. Looked good until I looked at the realestate pages for there. 500k for a 3 br mobile home, 700k or better for a 5-7 year old 3br home. The grass suddenly was no greener.

Quote: I think Ford likes to shift blame to supplier issues, Ford would never do that, would they?

I'm looking into building a garage at my house, mostly for my own crap (sleds, quads, hotrods etc) and a small amount of cash side work. Any suggestions on size, layout etc. from guys with a shop at home would be great. I have never had a garage or shop of my own. When I was young my dad had a 1 bay garage, and it was always so full of stuff we couldn't even use it... So based on that I definatly dont want to go to small.

I thought the edge heater cores were due to a reaction between the flux used during manufacturing and the coolant? (the fact that the flux never got properly flushed at manufacturing)