cbriggs

Quote: and he is less than brillant Maybe thats the "trick" to that test.

Jim, There is another usb port on the back of the new unit, rh side when looking at the screen.

I've had broken exhaust studs on a 6.4 create a reed effect with the gasket, sounds like yours, only squeal on slight accel,at exactly the right load, usually after a long coast down.

Quote: But why do they NEVER blow out like they do on '05 to '07 engines? Is it because the branch tube on '03/'04 engines are BOLTED to the back of the engine block while on '05 to '07 I thought it may be due to heat and pressure flexing the branch tube, but i have seen trucks with over 200,000 kms and fitting still intact, yet i have replaced some under 5000 kms.(one at 285 kms,truck was 1 day old) I lean more towards crap parts now. Quote: -What is the highest mileage you have seen any truck in service on its ORIGINAL EGR cooler last (orange hose and all)? I just did head gaskets on an 05 with 340,000 kms. Had original EGR cooler and orange hose. Cooler was not leaking. (replaced it anyways a preventative measure due to the labour savings involved) Quote: Why are '03/'04 engines excluded from this seemingly good strategy to have? Could it be that they were all off warrantee by the time these strategies were disscovered? Quote: My question though, is if you would push this update on '04 to early '05 models (the ones that use a 1/2" square drive to service)? Once again, failure to come to any other conclusion has lead me to beleive that they are just crap o-rings, not capable of performing the task required of them. Each year these trucks get more and more complex, and the price only increases slightly. The savings have to come from somewhere, right? If they can save a dollar or two on a part they will use several million of, what choice do they have. They have to keep the cost reasoneable because (especially with the current economy) people are less brand loyal and more willing to buy the best deal (read: cheapest). It sucks that reliability has to be sacrificed because of this.

Cage nuts are identical on 2011.

You could also try to take active command of the egr valve, and then the vgt and see which one has effect on the surge. Hotline has had me do that on several occasions (years ago, before all the seized turbos came around) to pinpoint which is cause and which is an effect of the concern.

Unless you're using a hammer, then its the safety blink. I am also guilty of not wearing glasses as much as I should. A month or so ago I had heated up and exahsut hanger peice that i had to cut off and reshape. The part was glowing red hot, I was holding it with pliars to test fit it when it slipped out of the pliars.... Natural reaction I reached out and causght it with my other hand. Burnt a large hole in the palm of my hand, about 2" around, at least 1/4" into the flesh. Worse yet, I was wearing a rubber glove, so there were chunks of latex burnt into the wound. Had its own heartbeat for at least a week.

I,ve had some that idle and precylce around 46 volts, then when you rev them up to 2000 - 2500 ish m-pwr drops to the high 30s.

I think it would be called the (oh) shit light. Not a cheap experiment.

(Closest thing I could find to raising my hand)

The guy that had said that left the dealer before I started here. I worked at 2 different indi shops (9 years) before coming to the dealer 6 years ago. I know him somewhat personally but have never worked with him. From what I have been told he and ford warrantee did not get along, he massively over-repaired everything, ( 4 ball joints and a short drag link on every s-d oil change)and had our dealer beyond warrantee audit, nearing the point of investigation. So he's probably not the guy to be quoting i guess. Sorry for the hi-jack. No its not my opinion, just an interesting thought vs the usual warrantee blues... My opinion may be slightly biassed as well after the loser retail customer i had last week.

You know, as much of a pain in the butt as warrantee can be at times, I got a different perspective talking to an Indi tech that used to be a ford master tech where I work now. His thoughts; Warrantee never "cant afford" to repair his vehicle, Warrantee will not ask for a second opinion (or not beleive you), Warrantee will not ask you to use the cheapest jobber or used parts, At the end of a warrantee job the customer still has the feeling they got "something" for free, rather than shelling out a wad of money. Kinda gives you something to ponder........

So, i had this 05 f-350 come in on the hook last week, 200,000kms , died while driving, smokes, no power, start and stall. Egr valve was hung open. no biggy. Also had P0611, so i performed ficm diag, informed the customer that it also needs a ficm. Customer decided to leave the ficm untill the truck wont run, he cant justify a $1100 part, when the truck starts and runs now (with a new egr valve). OK, whatever. Fast forward to friday, (3 or 4 days later) truck comes back in on the hook, shut it off at a drivethru - wouldnt restart. I finally got time to look at it yesterday. -15`c outside, truck fires up and runs(even though ficm mpwr is at 29 volts?). IPR at 85% all it can muster is 900 psi icp, once eot reached 30`c truck died. Leak test revealed absolultely no leaks at all. Needs hp pump. I happened to notice while working under the hood that there is 2" of diesel fuel in the degass botttle, and the degass bottle and rad cap are all fucked up from the fuel. I called the customer in, stayed 45 minutes late last night showing and explaining to him the problems with his truck and what is needed to repair it, including showing him cuttaway pictures of the heads and where the fuel can get into the coolant, how the HEUI system and the hp oil works. Today he came in and wanted to speak to the General Manager. So I get called to the GMs office with the owner. He states that the head of his truck is cracked because I used ether to start his truck when the hp pump failed. Then he proceded to say, I stood in the shop last night and told him that I used ether to start his truck so we didnt have to push it in. I sayed WTF are you talking about. You will never find a can of ether in this shop, nor has there ever been one. Anybody that uses ether on an engine with (operating) glow plugs is crazy. Then the SM added that he was one of the people that had helped push the truck in.... His Bullshit went south from there. He was asked to settle his bill and have his truck towed off of our property, and he is not welcome at our dealer anymore. What a Douchebag. At least the GM trusts what I say and is willing to take our word. What a shitty way to start the day though....

I just did another one, all 8 broke like yours, threads came out and left all the porcelain behind. Never thought of cranking it, i just broke them all off. At least breaking them that way they snap really low, so they only need to be pushed down 1/4" or less.

I always pull the sector shaft out as well, then you can properly inspect, clean, polish, or sleeve the shaft. makes the seal install way easier as well. but, yeah, very easy and very feaseable repair.

I recently have had good luck with not using a plug socket, just a normal 9/16" deep craftsman chrome. I broke 4 off still, but didnt crack the porcelian, all the porcelain came out with the plug and only left the sleeve in the head. Took 5 minutes to pull 4 broken sleeves. I get nervous about pushing the porcelain downwards ......

I read a an article in a diesel power magazine (bought it for a flight to vegas, tvs didnt work on the plane), they did a completely unbiassed test of the new ford, chev and dodge, in both 250 srw and 350 drw class. The ford and the chev were neck in neck in almost everything, and the dodge was way back on all the loaded tests due to its way lower power ratings. The chev was slightly faster empty and loaded, but only by fractions of a second, where the dodge was a few second back. The chev did record slightly better mileage as well i think. The ford was tested with the early - as released programm as well, not the upgraded one.

Sorry Jim, now that I re-read this post (in a more awake state) It appears I was confused. My reference to special tools and procedures was refering to LOAD testing a circuit... DOH..... No more postng while half asleep. And yes , you are right. The v-drop test is very-very simple and the results are always the same.

Quote: The idea is to have adequate volt drop across you load or device. I totally agree that voltage drop is the most acurate test of a cicuits integrity. The problem with writing it into the shop manual is, as quoted above, it is no longer a generic test that they can insert into a test and "assume" the reader will know how to perform it, and interperet the results. The shop manual will then have to call out special tools, with specific load ratings, based on the (size of) the circuit being tested. As Keith said, there have only been a handfull of times when a basic resistance, or voltage test have lied to me, but at that point we need to be able to interperet results, and decide if more testing is in order.

Quote: Let's see Ford do some commercials about that with Mike Rowe and Dennis Leary. That would be great! Probably would only be able to air them latenight though!!

I was fumbling around in programmable parameters on something the other day, and found that you can reduce the threshold pressure for the tpms system, but a big warning message comes up and goes on about liability and responsibility for whatever "non-approved" changes that are made.

The answer we basicly got at 6.7 training last week was durability / longevity. They bank on these going alot of miles at high load.

I'm thinking the valvetrain oil feed rails in the 6.7 are a direct address to this concern. I just did the 6.7 course, and it seems to me they have directly addressed alot of common problems we have seen over the past 7 or so years.

Got it done. No luck extracting it. Drilled it oversize and helicoiled it. Not to bad to do, but if it was a lower bolt the engine would have to be lifted up for access.

I have an 08 apart right now that has a weird chirp, sqeal noise under light to moderate accel, but not hard accel. I can rarely duplicate it, as it is temperature sensitive, does it worse cool, or after a long downhill coast. I have heard it with customer driving. Sounded kindof like an exhaust leak, but kind of like a boost leak as well, I couldnt find any soot anywhere, smoke test revealed nothing. I dove in and pulled the trans thinking it must be the rh up-pipe leaking. ( and posibly the cleanest running 6.4 ever- hence the no soot?) As i was about to re- install the rh uppipe i noticed a tiny, tiny trace of soot at the rh manifold, just at the top rear corner of the back cylinder. On closer inspection i saw the top rear bolt appered loose. Ah-ha, i'll just tighten it up..... The bolt appeared loose because it had broken off and was held in by rust. So now i am pulling a rh manifold and extracting a broken bolt. Anyone ever have one of these out? or seen this yet?