cbriggs

The oil will leak up and out around the injector body, as the fuel section of the injector is at the bottom, oil section at the top. Deffinatly sounds like a slight or intermitant hp oil leak.

Apparantly its leaving on the hook. Guy found a dealer in his home town that says they can get Ford to repair it on awa. Good luck. I'm Kinda sad. Was looking forward to shortblocking it. Mitchell time to shortblock it is 35 hours. Oh well.

I have an 03 crew, long, lariat 4x4 in my bay right now with 45,000 km on it. ( yes, thats 45,000 km, no typo) It looks like brand new in and out, unfortunatly it has a hole in #8 piston from a cracked injector tip. It died on the driver and when he attempted to restart it, it ran away for 30 seconds (he figured). turbo and cac are full of oil. It needs a short block and a turbo. Sales is trying o trade him out of it. I may have the option of buying it for $2000. Do you guys think its a good idea? I would consider swapping in a newer style engine from a wrecker, has anybody ever done this?

The only truck i have ever done gaskets on twice has (had) arp studs. It has a banks six gun ( the whole kit with cac,cac tubes, intake elbow, exhaust) and the guy that drives it ( a freind of mine) has about a 90 lb right foot. He drives like his ass is on fire always. He was averaging 50,00kms to a set of head gaskets, then he scattered a motor, so now its running an fqr.

No Aaron, 295/50/15 street tires. A tubed out stepside box off a 95ish truck was in my long term plan, but its kindof on the backburner in my life right now. I have most of the parts to put it on propane and turbocharge it, but i need a shop at home first.

I just got a 2010 f-150 a few months ago, wife drives a 2000 explorer v-8 awd (that i got from work for $1000). Summer toy is a 1981 gmc 1/2 ton, short box step side. It was the first vehicle i ever bought and have owned it for 16 years. I have transplanted it with a 425 hp small block, th-400 and a ford 9" four linked rear diff. Other summer toy is an 04 brp outlander quad, and an 06 Skidoo summit 800 for a winter toy ( although none get used much anymore, with an 18 month old son). Past vehicles, an 05 f-150, 05 escape, 03 vibe, 95 chevy k-1500, 90 eagle summit, 90 sunbird (turbo 2.0l),81 escort, other 81 chevy p/u (winter beater, smashed it up bad).

In Canada (BC) it is covered by insurance, regardless of how it happened. Unless it is proven that the customer did it intentionally, It is considered an accident (stupidity, that is). Although it does go against your collision policy, and puts a (large) ding against your claims history, as it is considered the same as driving into a post. I have done 2 6.4l fuel system jobs, and probably 5 engines (assorted makes) due to driving into a river and hydro locking, all paid for by insurance.

Yah, did a pdi on our fiesta today. Took me a good 15 minutes to figure out how to switch the cluster to KM / hr. (Its done thru the stereo) Pretty neat little car though.

Well said Keith!

How do you access cudl's? Whenever i try it comes up and says i dont have access.

What was EBP doing when it was happening?

It was probably the rad cap squealing.

Yep, i do oil and filter on all engine work, whether warrantee or customer pay. Its not worth the risk. (and i suck out and clean the hp res. on cooler jobs.)

I had an excersion come in a few weeks ago, doing the same as what yours is doing now. Text book seized turbe, stuck "small". Yanked the turbo and tore it down. Looked great, everything moves free. Put it back in, same deal, stuck small, makes boost but ebp is so high it wont go. Ended up being the actuator. After carefull inspection i could see it stuck (in the non venting position) causing full oil pressure to act on the piston. I removed it and pushed on the end, the valve sleeve went pop and returned to where it should. Put it back in, fired it up and it was stuck again instantly. New actuator fixed it.

We do tonnes, parts guy or customers usually pop them in themselves now. We have a few customers on their 2nd or 3rd set, Heat is the culprit I recon. Why did they ever move them out of the cowl?

Those vids are neat. I like the one where he has made it boost sensitive, backs off when he applies pressure to it.

The length some people will go to to avoid a little bit of work!!!! Amazing.

Quote: Or just cut them a length of broom handle to go between the seat and the accelerator pedal. This works really good if it has power seats. The rpm control switch is (conveniently located) on the side of the seat.

I have had this happen 4 times now after a catastrophic cooler failure. Usually on ones that eat a bunch of coolant, and all were higher mileage engines (150,000kms plus). All 4 ran fine on post repair test drive (25km plus). Some wont start then next day. one came back on the hook after driving 50 kms. The only thing i can figure is the moisture content in the oil must damage the oil side of the injector.

I just bought a champion power products geny from costco. I got the 3500w version, for 299$. They also had a 6500 watt version for 499$. The larger unit produces 220v. Seems to work great. Another option is a permanently installed home standby generator. Fires up and transfers load of selected circuits when power goes out automatically.Uses your homes propane or nat gass feed for fuel. They are available from about 7000 watts and up. I had a 17000 watt version, but decided not to install it so i resold it. I paid about 2500$ for the geny with auto transfer switch. Search Carrier or Generac home standby generators on google.

They have a tube that runs from the intake tube, thru a filter, or amplifier or something and in thru the firewall. You wouln't believe the sound in the car. Kinda like and old q-jet with the secondaries open.... And holy fuck does it go..... fast as you can shift 1-2-3, from about 20 kph rolling start, speedo hit 160....I grew a chub. I want....

Yeah, Ive seen 40 before. The coolant should smell good in that one for ya!

Quote: Everyone I get has a dpf code in it Same (on the 6.4s). They cause a problem with the maf sensor (as well as or caused by contamination) and it miss calculates dpf load. I have actually seen two completely plugged dpfs caused by their filters.

I got in an argument with an engineer at AFE. A customer put on one of their cold air kits and the cel kept coming on. Kept showing excess egr flow detected (p0402 ? i think) Wont complete an egr test, maf falls way low. Tried known good sensor. I determined it was due to the oversized air inlet pipe, causing a reduction in air velocity, thus a miss calculation in Air mass. The engineer ( or who-ever the f**k i was talking to) had absolutely no idea what i was talking about and could only say that i was completely backwards, their system allows more air into the engine so the sensor should read higher air flow. I gave up shortly after that.

Not to be a hijacker or anything, but, anyone driven a 2011 mustang 5.0L yet? All i can say is holy.......I want one.