Mikill

A couple of months ago when I had this codethe truck wouldn't go anywhere. It didn't stall just didn't want to go over 30 mph. High Pressure fuel was very erratic. Change the FRP sensor and everything was good. Test drove the vehicle and had no problems. Truck left and hasn't came back yet.

I haven't ran into an EGR valve problem yet but a couple of techs in the shop have had good results with the air hammer. Basically vibrate it loose and out.

The way I handle Water In Fuel situation is to drain tank clean lines and change filters first. If it saves the engine then good. If not I then start changing injectors and fuel pumps and what not but I try to save the customer some money first. 9 times out of 10 that all it needs. There are those rare instances where injectors start falling left and right or the pump needs to be changed. One tech in the shop had a company truck that put in trash fuel and he had to install a pump and a couple of injectors. The truck ran smooth and he let it go. Came back a couple of days later and the company put the same fuel back into the truck which caused alot of problems and they had to cough up alot of money the second time around. All injectors, pump, filters and sending unit.

I use the bleed tool everytime and never had a problem. The shrader valve method doesn't work all the time. That just bleeds the low pressure side not the high pressure side.

When you pull the thermostat you will find it to be coming apart and hotline says to pull the water pump to check the front cover.

I had a 6.4 that the glow plug came apart and the middle section shot out of the truck and the threads stayed in the hole. I still don't know how that happened. There were no signs that the piston or anything struck it.

I just finished doing my second one. This time though the engine started knocking. So I ended up replacing the short block as well.

We have had more than a few cracked and broken plastic heater pipes on these 6.4's during repair. I actually used a bolt that was too long and drilled a hole thru one. Another tech pryed against his and it cracked. Another somehow shattered one to pieces.

I have done a front cover and oil cooler once already. The truck came in and I replaced the turbos because there was too much play causing a boost and noise concern. A week later the truck comes back losing coolant. It took me about two days to figure out why the crankcase was overfilled. Finally after a call to the hotline they told me to drain the oil and pressure test the cooling system with the drain plug out. If coolant comes out then remove the water pump and inspect the front cover and sure enough there were chunks missing and a pinhole causing the coolant to leak into the crankcase. The truck had previously had two radiators and EGR coolers replaced. I replaced the oil cooler and front cover. Then the oil light came on. The truck had overheated enough to cause the check valve on the filter housing adapter to not seal properly causing the oil light to come on when it wasn't able to keep the oil in the filter housing. So I had to remove everything again and replace the filter housing adapter. That one won't get by me again. I'm sure I will run into it eventually again. I have already replaced a couple of more horizontal EGR coolers after radiator replacement.

Maybe they are trying to cover up for the bad sensors. I see another recall happening and me underneath alot of hot fresh off the highway 7.3L engines.