Mikill

I seen that earlier today. I'm sure that will come down quite a bit before we know it.

I was told not to replace the DPF anymore if the sensor does not come out. So now I just break the sensor and place and socket over it and remove it. Never had a problem getting the claim paid as long as I mention that I had to break sensor in order to remove.

I have always been told anything over 400 psi is good for 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4.

Yeah they changed that a while back. I think they are much better than those double copper washers.

I also replace all o-rings and gaskets when doing an egr cooler. I had one customer that I did a hpp on an 03 who didn't want to buy the intake gasket kit because he said he just did the egr cooler and replaced all the o-rings. I told him that I don't reuse the o-rings or gaskets. Once I started doing the job none of the o-rings or gaskets seem like the were ever changed.

WSM never says anything about removing or loosening the intake manifold. It does say to remove the y-pipe. I personally just loosen the y-pipe and I'm able to remove the cover without bending it.

Wouldn't it be easier to just pull a vacuum on the cooling system?

Damn people are still coming up with crazy ways to get the cab bolts out? I honestly just get a long 1/2 inch ratchet and remove them without any extra things. It usually takes me about 30 minutes to remove all the bolts unless one spins which is usually in the front unless the cab has been removed by someone else before.

We used to send them out but Ford started saying not to do it so we started cleaning the intakes ourselves and haven't had a problem getting those paid under warranty.

Sounds like an exhaust leak like the others are saying.

Maybe they realize that the screen doesn't fix it. The problem is stuck inside the valve not the hole in the screen.

I too would suggest checking compression. Damn near every 7.3 that comes into the shop gets a compression check before I put an injector in. I have been bitten by that twice and learned to check compression first.

When it comes to this type of repair I usually try to start with the basics before going crazy. I know some techs see it as an opportunity to make a lot of money but most of the time they end up pricing themselves out of the job. A draining, clean fuel and filters is usually enough to get the truck running in good condition. I have done several with no complaints afterwards. The 6.4 is a completely different story though because once that truck dies on gasoline then it is usually costly.

I don't think Ford even knows what's causing the cavitation. Me and another tech seem to believe it's more of an erosion concern due to too high of flow in the cooling system. But that's just a theory.

I priced out an injector today at my new dealer that was $393 and some change. I recently had one at my old dealer where I replaced all 4 injectors on the drivers side for the same concern under customer pay. I recently talked to a tech over there and he told me it came back missing badly on the other bank. Same concern of fuel aeration. That would of been a first for me as well.

I have seen a couple of 6.0's with the same vertical markings but never really thought anything of them because there was no deep scratches or loss of compression. Reassembled and everything turned out fine and no concerns ever found from those markings.

The truck that I had with the two broken lifters ran smooth and compression was good across every cylinder at 420 psi. Valve train was operating properly. Couldn't find anything wrong until I drained the oil and found metal and a piece of needle bearing on the drain plug. I removed the gerotor pump and found it scarred up along with the front cover.

More than likely you have a couple of broken lifters. The last one that I had popping threw the intake had lifters on 5 and 6 broken.

I have seen a couple of those come thru the shop.

We were told to stop replacing or claiming DPF removal for EGT sensors. Now I just usually break the sensor and place a socket onto the the nut and remove it after spraying it down with penetrant. I personally have yet to have a claim kicked back for being above the average.

Techs over here claim removal of the vertical cooler.

Wouldn't claiming r/r of turbo and pedestal be overlapping labor ops?

An air test with the cover off would show if the stc fitting is leaking. If it's leaking you will see it even if it's a small leak. I personally have only seen one branch tube cracked. Not fun at all to replace.

You might have combustion in the fuel rails.

Our shop charges 1.3 for 6.4 and 1.0 for 6.0. The extra .3 is for bleeding the fuel system. First off, our owner's own 9 other dealers (mostly Ford, couple GM/Chevy, couple Toyota, couple Dodge (some in the same locations). And they have the brilliant idea to 'menu' all the common repairs - diesel fuel filters at any dealership in our group - 0.6 - have argued this 'til I'm blue in the face with my SM - warranty pays 0.8!!!! So I generally try not to do them! Send them to the lube rack!!!! Secondly Quote: bleed the fuel system is completely uneccesary - if you have to bleed after filter replacement YOU DID SOMETHING WRONG!!!! Cycle the key 10 times after replacing both filters and it will NEVER air lock if everything is operating properly![/quote'] Didn't say we needed to bleed the system. I'm saying our shop charges that extra .3 for that reason. I just see that extra .3 as me fighting that damn wire harness that likes to get in the way.