Mikill

I got a 6.4 in my stall that needs a complete assembly because it was overheated and melted the oil filter standpipe. It came in for a tapping noise which turned out to be backfiring thru intake. The reason I found out it was overheated is when I was going to check compression the glow plug harness was melted and the glow plugs were starting to come apart. The oil smelled a little burnt so I removed the filter and found that the standpipe was melted down completely.

Honestly I have done both the studs and bolts and I can't really say one is better than the other. Some people swear by the studs but I have never had a truck come back for headgaskets a second time with studs or bolts. Neither have any other guys in the shop.

It actually comes up less for me. I was getting 11.0 hrs to do EGR cooler/oil coolers. Now I'm coming up with only 9.5 hrs.

The headgasket kit comes with both head gaskets, fuel lines for injectors, injector o-rings and washers and turbo reseal kit. You will need a front cover gasket kit and rear cover gasket and seal, upper and lower oil pan gaskets, oil pickup gasket, water pump gasket and all the exhaust gaskets and bolts. As well as valve cover and rocker carrier gaskets. I usually order a new hpp gasket kit as well. I think that should cover it. You will also need alot of patience and a couple of days. Its really alot of little things that need to be watched. Don't forget to remove all sensors and block heater.

I can't count how many times I burned myself doing that brake booster recall before the advisors started telling the customers to leave it for a few hours.

I usually dip the bolts in oil and then tap them against the tire to get the excess oil off of the bolt so that it's not dripping with oil while I install them in the holes. Then I run them down with the cordless impact. Then start the torque procedure. I haven't had any problem so far.

If it isn't a recall then they are going to wait. That's the first thing I tell the advisor when its something that can't be done without burning myself.

Before the owner never really seen the regen actually happening. Since the recall now they notice it because of the message display. I have only ran into one truck that was actually going into regen too much.

It's hard to determine which injectors are sticking and not firing off. I have had two trucks that have had this happen. They would start after some cranking but run like crap and smoke heavily once it fired off but would soon die. If I suspect injectors sticking I usually have the IDS power balance ready. If the vehicle does start you can see which injectors are not firing before it dies again. One of the trucks I ended up putting 5 injectors in before it would start and run properly. The truck had almost 200,000 miles on it at the time. Then it came back a month later and I ended up replacing the other three for the same reason.

Maybe the gasket on top of turbo leaking? I had that happen to me one time. Changed the gasket after doing an egr cooler and it leaked pretty good. I somehow didn't install it right the first time so I changed it out a second time and the leak was gone. I still don't know how that happened because the gasket wasn't ripped and looked in good shape.

If you are looking for instructions they are under the service tips tab when you look up the oasis for the truck. Its like 8 pages long. I did my first one this week and it went smooth. Wasn't a pain like I first thought it would. My only complaint is Ford wants you to do more work by rebuilding the oil cooler but they cut the labor times but what else is new?

I would think you would still get base oil even if the hpp is causing the problem.

I was told about a little over a year go when pulling my first 03 turbo, "that rear bolt is bitch but whatever you do don't strip it". Since then I have invested in deep well and short twist sockets and I have had good luck so far in getting them out without resorting to the torch or pulling the turbo in pieces.

For the driveability issue I would look into the MAF. I had one where the MAF connector was burnt causing the vehicle to run like crap and smoke badly.

It's happened to me once but I was lucky that it was #3 and I was able to get the slide hammer on the hold down and eventually work it out of there. It was carboned up pretty good.

I don't have the opportunity to do any tuneups in our shop but from what I know I think it's 3.0 for tuneup and 1 hour for each broken plug.

I currently have one that I put an horizontal cooler in and it ended up bending cylinder 8. Now I got to do another short block. You know I have had a few 6.0 hydrolocked pretty good on a few cylinders and no damaged occured to the base engine but with the 6.4 it's seems like it is alot more sensitive to hydrolocking. 6.0's hydrolock while driving and can be saved alot of times. 6.4's hydrolock while driving and shoot a rod out the block.

I have yet had to remove an EGR valve from the 6.4 beast but I have seen a couple of techs in the shop use an air hammer to great success. They wedge the chisel in there and just work it up and out. The only damage occured is to the valve its self I believe but even that is just a slight mark from the chisel.

The only time I had something similar it turned out to be the radiator. Cold spots on the radiator and the truck would only overheat carry a trailer and coolant would come out of the degas bottle.

Headgasket jobs or engine jobs get the cab off treatment from me if they can be removed. That goes for 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4.

I'm just curious as to why some people are doing headgaskets on 6.4's. Myself or no one else in the shop have ran into headgasket problems on the 6.4s. I personally have done a short block, hp pumps and gaskets, egr coolers, front covers, fan clutches, turbos and etc but never ran into headgasket problems.

The shop is so slow these days I invite those recalls to come in.

Is the piston starting to melt down? I have seen a couple of those.

As far as the FICM issue I usually see codes for FICM performance or related codes. As for the two torx I use a craftsman hand tool with a T30 bit. Works great.

The first time I actually did remove the bumper after trying to bleed it without removing it. It actually worked. The second time I got a hold of an airlift and I say that is much better for bleeding and refilling.