Mikill

The dipstick will come out but you have to use a little force sometimes.

I honestly have never done it that way. I don't like fighting everything in the way. I know some people in the shop that do it that way. I usually remove the radiator and fan clutch. then remove vertical cooler and then remove horizontal cooler by pulling it thru the front. But it only takes me about half an hour to remove radiator after doing thousands of them and then another half hour to remove the coolers. I know one tech that use to remove the studs from the cooler and then pull it out.

I have seen a couple now with updated harnesses with chafes on the red and orange wires that are exposed on the bottom.

If not the cooler then maybe a overfueling injector. I have had some that come in with injectors with blown out tips and have had some where the injector hold down loose that lock up the engine.

I charge 3.0 for alternator replacement.

I'm with Larry. I think you have a bad battery connection.

I would believe that the only way it would affect ICP is if the clip on top of the injector was missing or damaged causing the loss of high pressure oil. Seen a few of those. I don't see any other way but there is always that crazy problem truck that comes thru the door.

I have a question for you guys. What are you all getting for compression test on 6.4 engines? You would thing that after all the castastrophic failures that they would come out with a labor op for a compression test. I like to use as little m-time as possible so sometimes I don't even claim a compression test.

3.0 for diag, replacement and reprogram.

I had one where the shifter wiring on the steering column had a chafe grounding out and popping a fuse causing this concern.

Me and my next stall neighbor charge 15 for the whole package. EGR cooler, oil cooler kit, reservoir cleaning and screen changing and intake cleaning. Then of course oil and filter change and coolant flush. There are some in the shop that charge 20-25 hours which makes me wonder what they are charging for headgaskets because we charge 30 hrs. I work in a pretty big shop with alot of fleet so most of the time they just want it fixed which spoils some people.

I have one right now that I know had some bad fuel at one point in it's life because it came in for a no start and fuel samples are clean from the pump and from the shrader valve but had all kinds of debris in fuel filter. Truck has 18,000 miles on it and it's an 2009. Since we couldn't verify any bad fuel the service manager told me start with the HPP. Did that and got the pressure and everything need to start but still wouldn't start. After about two days of trying all kinds of things finally decided to contact hotline again and was told to replace everything else. Talked to service manager and he said do what Ford says. So I replace everything and now truck starts and runs. Now I just hope and pray it doesn't get kicked back because even hotline said it would be hard to prove that bad fuel caused the problem because the fuel is clean now but we know how it goes.

It's not that bad to do it with the transmission out. Did one on an F-550 bus that the cab could not be removed. I have one now that I just replaced the HPP because it was only building 80 psi. Ended up replacing gasket as well because the red and orange wires that are still exposed were chafed. Now the FRP builds to over 6000 psi and still won't start. I have the bleed tool hooked up and fuel is no longer aerated but vehicle still won't start. Any ideas from you guys? I have fuel pw and vpwr is good. All other pids seem good to go and no codes on koeo or injector selftests. By all accounts the truck should fire off.

If it hydrolocked I'm sure there would be a rod knocking. I have yet to see a 6.4 not bend a rod.

I had a rattle that drove me crazy for about two days off and on. I had just put a HPP in an 08 F250 and the customer came back complain about a rattle. So I drove the truck and sure enough there is a rattle/squeeking sound. It drove me nuts trying to find this rattle. Turned out to be the cover on the bottom of the cab came loose a little and making the noise. I would of never thought that would make that kind of noise but I will never forget that sound and I will know just where to go if I ever hear it again.

I actually ran into another one today. Check engine light on and the only code is P0297. Customer didn't complain of any other concerns. Test drove and retested and system passed. Maybe it's just in my region that people are just driving excessively fast all the time.

They also say that glow plug codes don't set the MIL either but I have seen them as well.

It triggers the CEL. I don't know how many times you have to go that fast but it does set the light.

It's surprising how many 6.4L's I get where the customer complaint is "Check engine light is on but vehicle seems to drive normal". Run self test and out pops overspeed code. Check freeze frame and vehicle is going 98 mph. I inform service advisor to tell customer slow down and thank you for the check out fee.

Check for an intake leak. I have had one where the truck made no boost but had an egr cooler recently replaced. Intake gasket was not installed properly. The tab that is on the gasket was not in one of the grooves so the back bolts on the intake manifold loosened up. Smoke test revealed that one real quick.

Most techs in the shop here charge 30 hrs for a regular headgasket job. I don't know how much for extra things they get. I have never had a CP headgasket job. 20 hrs for a long block swap is what I charge.

I just want to know how is everyone getting the turbo actuator rod to come out? We tried the two jaw puller but this thing doesn't seem to want to budge at all. Any help would be appreciated.

I have seen radiators with cold spots overheat and force coolant out the bottle under load.

I have never seen the aftermarket headgaskets before. The ARP studs to me have not shown that they are better because like I said before I have not had to do a head job on the same vehicle yet with either the studs or factory bolts. I honestly believe people read too many magazines and take whatever they say as the truth. Most of what is in the magazines are race shops who think they know what they are talking about just because the add all kinds of dumb modifications that seem to work for about a month. I have seen the work that most of these race shops do and they are no better than the independent shops with all the butcher jobs I get after they tried to fix something they messed up.

It's a F-350 and he's towing. More than likely he is not going to get good fuel mileage.