Jump to content

joshbuys

Members
  • Posts

    682
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by joshbuys

  1. I was a carpenter for 6 years....I make more money doing this! Started going to the local community college after HS and was going to be an accountant....My buddy is an accountant now, and makes at least double what I make....
  2. Of course....I would've when I posted that, but didn't have much time. 1st: Drain Coolant, Remove LH Battery and Degas Bottle, unbolt upper turbo cross-over pipe bracket and turbo actuator cooler, I like to put caps in the fuel cooler ports to prevent spillage, swing cooler/cross-over tube assembly over to wheel well area. Remove air filter, oil fill neck and turbo inlet tube, undo CAC connections @ Turbo outlet - hot side, and at CAC - cold side (at top right) remove and cap transmission cooler line(just the one that goes straight up into the cooler (RH lower). 2nd: Unbolt cab (all bolts except very rear 2) using a 4x4 block of wood, jack up front of cab until you can place a 4x4 block of wood between the 2 front body mounts and frame. 3rd: At this point you can reach almost all of the turbo pipe bolts with an air ratchet. Remove the turbo oil inlet and the heat shield. Remove the transmission dipstick. Remove the down pipe (it will slide out the bottom at this point). Unbolt the EGRDOC pipe (loosen the 13mm bolt on the bracket near the LH up pipe - this is one of the bolts that cannot be accessed with an air tool, the 1/2 moon wratchet wrench works great hear and for the upper LH up pipe nut). Pivot the EGRDOC pipe to the driver side so it's out of your way. Unbolt the up pipes. Unbolt the turbos and using the lifting bracket remove the turbo assembly (tilt the front up as you lift it and it will slide right out). I'm doing a HPP on one today, I'll try to get some pictures. The last HPP I did on Saturday took me approx 4 hrs.
  3. You might also add number of vehicles repaired under warranty compared to number of vehicles sold. I know, we're in the dealership and everyone we see is BROKE but we need to remember, there are alot of these trucks (7.3L, 6.0L, 6.4L) that make it out of warranty without ever seeing the dealership for more than service work.
  4. I'm trying to get on locally here with Union Pacific, got a buddy trying to get me in
  5. I spray all the bolts down with pb blaster and let it set for 10 or more minutes before trying to break any of them loose. Seems to work just fine for me.
  6. I can get the turbo off this bad boy in about an hour - cab on!
  7. My 3" extension works awesome with an extra deep socket on it! One of the guys I work with bought the snap-on socket and it looks so tiny and flimsy....maybe that's why you're breaking yours Keith.
  8. Well done Brad! Well done!!
  9. Say whaaaat?!?! So does this mean Ford doesn't recognize using your own fuel pressure gauge, compression gauge, wrenches, sockets, etc.?!
  10. I sent 16 of them suckers in last month(few of them were the round ones which they pay 25/core for) and got almost 400 bucks!!
  11. And not just labled!! The side that goes to the Degas is also marked in WHITE!!
  12. The labor guide times do not reflect ford tsb times, but rather go off of the times located in slts for those operations and therfore often pay less than tsb's. in our shop all the tech's and advisors and shop foreman sat down and agreed on some times for cooler jobs, we came up with a total of 17.0 hours to do coolers on a truck, this includes diag - 2.3hrs, r&r coolers - 8.5hrs, clean turbo - 2.5hrs, clean intake - 1.0hrs, flush and fill coolant and change oil - 2.7hrs. TSB times for this pays 10.4 on the trucks, and 13.1 on the vans - the vans pay approx. 26% more than the trucks on this tsb, so we would charge 26% more than the 17.0hrs we charge for trucks or 21.5hrs.
  13. A guy (electrical genius) I used to work with had an '09 Edge that had one of the CAN wire terminals at the IC crimped to the shielding, it touched the wire, but would intermittently drop everything and have a no crank...worth a look anyway if you're dropping the CAN.
  14. 08 F350 getting a HPP - P0088, 05 F450 (customer pay) getting head gaskets, coolers, water pump, and front cover, 07 F350 getting a turbo clean, 08 F450 getting a (customer pay) hydro-boost and (warranty) horizontal cooler....and 3 more that haven't been looked at yet....BRING ON THE HEAT!!!! It can be this hot all year 'round if it'll keep us this busy!!
  15. Have one that I'm gonna be putting a coolant filter on, water pump was wasted, guy said it started leaking a while ago, so he put a silicone stop leak in it....now it blew out the bearings in the water pump, and blew the egr cooler....gonna flush her real good and then add the coolant filter!
  16. Also available from Carquest under the same OTC tool number - OTC 6763 If you go to www.carquest.com and view their current tool promotions - it's on page 5 on the far right upper corner. $32.95 for both fittings.
  17. Sounds like murphy's been hard at work again!!
  18. +1!! Thank you for your service to our country!! We are always praying for the safety of our military!!
  19. I have seen many an IPR that fails due the jostling around from someone not having properly tightened the nut on the back side - as you mentioned yours was loose, I would be highly suspect of that IPR!
  20. Definetly sounds like you need to check for exhaust gases with the cylinders dropping as you stated! Start by hooking up the 6.0L fuel pressure test kit and check for air bubbles in the return line of the tester. If air bubbles are there, then it is time for a bubble test to isolate the bank. The last several I've done with exhaust gas in the system that were under warranty, hotline and prior approval had me replace the whole bank of injectors and the banjo bolt at the front of the head.
  21. If it has a cast hpp cover it is the old style pump, if it has the aluminum hpp cover it is the new style pump. I've never had a hp issue cause low base pressure, if base pressure is low(verify with a manual gauge as the dash is not registering any "pressure readings" just an indicator) I would be suspecting a oil pressure regulator or something with the lp pump (ie: damaged front cover, split lp gerotor, etc.)
  22. Absolutely!! Seen a bunch of them! ENJOY!!
×
×
  • Create New...