Matt Saunoras

Hahaha I guess

If it's customer pay and not a regular cab I would yank the cab off. I've done them both ways and I prefer to have the cab in the air.

I've had one little issue with mine too. The locks are air release and they ran the thin plastic air lines up through our ceiling.........which, apparently it gets really cold up above the ceiling when temps are sub zero. So I put my racks up one night to scrub the floors, come in the next day and the locks won't release. I scratched my head for a half hour over that one, running around checking the compressor and all the valves. Now my lock releases take a quick connect air fitting. Also I would like to complain that it smells like they filled up the damn reservoirs with SP. So every time I let a rack down guess what I smell.

I have too in the past seen early pumps cause a lack of power with low WOT ICP. I really need to take the next one apart, given the heavy scoring inside where is the metal disappearing too?

The jam nut was loose and one of the nut flats looked like it was rounded off by an open end wrench. I think someone put the fitting on loose and tried to tighten it in the vehicle.

In my other bay is a set of 6.0 headgaskets that got pushed to the back burner. The truck has a reman 6007 installed less than 2 years ago. It's been through 2 sets of coolers and 2 front main seals in the last year. None of which done by our shop. They're in a bind and tired of going to another dealership so it looks like I'll be SPW some gaskets. Also the underside of this truck is covered in oil. Dyed it last night and found a nice size crack in the oil filter housing. Before anyone asks yes it is a manual.Outside is another cab and chassis 6.7 that needs a turbo and another 6.7 dump that's got regen problems. I'm starting to feel like there's no chance I'll ever have a life again.Nothing new here but this is the headgasket tester I recently made. I used an acetylene gauge because of the pressure range. This last truck vented the cap right at 15psi. I also used a quick connect air fitting for the gauge incase anything ever happens to it. Makes releasing the cooling system pressure a little easier too.

06 F-350 6.0, another fleet company I'm working on, same ones that brought me the branch tube. No start, put a ficm in it to get it running. Runs but damn near died on the road test. Fuel filters are plugged, fuel smells like its been sitting a while. Slam filters in it drives fine, it's only throwing ICP codes, glow plug codes, contribution codes, EBP codes and leaking oil plus it wanders all over the road. Get back and it's got borderline low fuel pressure. 40 psi wot. Got an exhaust leak at the back of the engine too. Sold a FICM, ficm harness, HFCM, blue spring, 2 injectors, oil cooler, EGR up pipe, glow plugs, glow plug harnesses, EBP sensor, pigtail and tube, clean turbo, clean intake, ball joints, trac bar ball joint and bushing and a lof/ coolant flush. Found the IPR screen trashed and a fomoco filter in a napa cap. Also found this beauty. It wasn't a hot no start but I didn't drive it far.

Same here. I've also made a habit of pulling the pump and blowing out the passage. If it needs an STC it gets one, if not I just reseal everything

Bays are empty but not for long. Shortblock is done, 6.7 manifolds are done, tomorrow starts 2 new ones.

Hmmm well I guess anything can happen. I recently rescreened my IPR just for piece of mind. There is a lot of pressure flowing past that thing.

was the screen pushed in at all?

Wow, I have seen aftermarket filters come out looking like that quite often. Never really could figure out why. I've had at least 3-4 half dirty filters come out of 6.0s and 6.4s in the last month.

Still no parts order from the Washington depot. Shortblock going together finally

I hear that. I'm still trying to shortblock this 6.4 that's been here since January. Got a 6.7 with broken manifold studs sitting in my other bay with no parts because the order didn't show up today. I worked on another 6.4 all day in the drive through service lane because there's no where else to put it. Right now only 2 trucks are sitting outside but they're gonna be about 40 hours of work total.

Reman branch tubes? Hell if I get any broken ones maybe I can just weld them up in the engine.... OR wrap it in muffler tape.

We're about 1000 ft above sea level here and I typically see 340-360 on a dry engine. I've had fuel and coolant washed down cylinders affect compression readings. A little squirt of oil into the adapter seems to help

Now if you remove the heads does that in any way change the rear cover removal part?

I'm not going to lie, the thought of a branch tube repair was always one that made me scratch my head Likewise I love a challenge. Now that I've done one if there is a next time I certainly won't be caught off guard. Positioning those rockers about had me pulling my hair out in clumps

Agreed, hold the certs with pride. I've been offered over $30 from other dealers in desperation but every time you move you lose seniority. I've been a SM for 5 years now and I've never used it to get more money, I have however used my dedication to get a pay raise.

check your fuel for metal contamination

Thanks for checking Bruce. I'll just order some Ford ones and wait until tomorrow

That number changes to a C94 and they tell me it's not available

1847129C92 is the only thing I came up with so far. I will call International tomorrow and see.

I'm joining the club. The few that have actually replaced a branch tube, I feel your pain. Earlier this week I diaged a hot no start with a blown out branch tube to fitting o-ring. Now I have done a lot of STCs over the years as we all have and none have ever returned with a blown out o-ring.Pull the bolts out of the tube and its apparent the pass side bolt is crossthreaded. It's tight all the way out. The pump connector is not on straight as verified with an old STC metal bracket. Someone actually ground a flat spot on the bolt threads to make it into a self tapper and ran it in. I was pretty surprised to see this honestly. This is advanced hackery.So onto the repair. Seems straight forward until you really look at the WSM and start working then you realize how screwed up it actually is. You are to pull off 5 rockers and pushrods. Easy because we've done lots of headgaskets right? Nah not as easy as it looks especially when the fulcrum ball defies gravity and stays attached to the pedestal. The rockers are out and the tips are destroyed which I hadn't anticipated.Oh well still work to do. So I grab my 10" extension and T27 and start on down. This seems a little fishy to me. Then I realize what I have is definitely too wide to work. Now what? Well in the back of my mind I can remember Jim saying one time to take your T27 and weld it to the extension. Excellent advice. I pressed the bit from my socket, fired up the TIG and proceeded to make a tool I only hope to need this one time.Sure enough it worked, the tube is out, new one in, new fitting lined up correctly and an undeserved sense of accomplishment rains down. Somehow I was actually able to stick my big head up into the tunnel, reach up around both sides of the engine to position the socket into the bolt heads. You do need to go through the pushrod holes on a pretty decent angle. Scary yes but what's scarier is that it actually works. And since its Saturday I snapped some pics.

Why the move? Can't be just the commute