lmorris

Not normal.On the early style pumps, they do this when the HPOP goes bad. Don't quote me, but I believe the new style pump will do this as well if it fails. It's basically allowing the air to flow backwards through the pump, which means it's toast. STC fitting failures usually will give you at least 200 PSI.

If you really don't want to mess around with transferring over the oil filter housing and lines, and they are willing. There is a oil to air cooler set up available that moves the oil filter behind the bumper, or where ever you wish to stick it. It would work slick with this engine swap., and most likely would make future repairs easier as well.

All our oil is bulk and delivered by Shell. However it is all set up by Ford Canada, so I hope they are on the ball and making sure the bulk oil is not the new CK-4.

Wonder if they lifted the body to do the install?

Perform a manual regen, even if it doesn't need it. Never mind, you already tried that.

I had to try it once, now that I have put more thought into it, next one will be cab off. I will still leave the turbo in place though, that was a slick move to leave it on.

We got one in similar to the second one for the Transit engine I was supposed to be removing....Now we can't get a hold of the guy to book it in...

I have never seen one of those break. The torque is too low. That's a puzzler.

I use TA-31 on everything.

I have heard of others doing that. Thanks for the tip.

Not worried about broken bolts because they all go into the turbo, which is being replaced.

So the turbo on my 2013 Escape needs to be replaced. The bypass solenoid is stuck open, so very little boost...and it's leaking oil. Has anyone here had the pleasure of changing the turbo on these things? PTU and cat have to come out. I am wondering it will come out the top. I will update with pics on the process, when I get a chance to get it in.

One of the upper oil pan bolts would be my guess.

I use an ASUS K550C. Big enough for everyday use and light enough to carry out to the parking lot.

That's what I ended up doing.

So how do you get it out without moving the degas bottle? The one I am doing doesn't clear the booster when it hits the degas bottle.

Our transmission guy has had internal harness shorts on these.

Nice find.

My 6.4L no start is back outside, customer still can't understand why water in fuel is a problem and why Ford won't warranty the repairs . Last I heard he is taking to a local Diesel shop and is calling his lawyer.

I came in just over 16 hours. The only advantage to a cab lift that I can see would be access to the head bolts, and getting the head on and off the engine. I can't see a time savings, but I have only lifted 3 cabs so far.

You could try swapping the fuel check valves side to side, see if the erratic reading moves to the other bank. They are the little fitting that the line attaches to at each head. If that is your issue you may also want to make sure the filter housing is clean too. It's not chipped by chance? I have seen chips do this too.

The oil spray tube oring is 7mm X 1.5mm, Mine was damaged and didn't notice it till assembly time.

I used an injector hold down bolt and clamp as a handle, still a little tricky getting it lined up. If I ever get another of these I might remove the exhaust manifold,which can be done with the turbo in place still, and use the engine crane. Trying to balance myself and not damage the head was tricky.

I'm waiting for one to to in. All the parts are here, it's running good, so I won't know the extent of the repair till it gets here. It also has a few oil leaks from the front and rear covers, so I will be dropping the engine and doing it all on a stand.

Going to give this a try. I have a 2015 with 31,000 KM on it with a rough run during regen complaint. Got the head out, Thank you so much for the write up. Going to fashion a handle for the rearward put of the head for going back in, should make it a bit easier to hold onto.