lmorris

Mine ended up being the low side core. I replaced the secondary water pump 7000 km ago. Suspecting that was the initial cause of the cooler core leak. Putting a turbo in it anyways while it's apart.

I was thinking of pulling a sample once I get into the valve covers. I have told the advisors we really shouldn't get into this thing unless he is willing to do everything needed to fix it right. This is one that I hope gets towed out or I fear I shall be married to it for life.

I have my very first internal EGR cooler leak. The truck also has some intermittent turbo fluctuation issues that I had previously replaced the VGT solenoid for, but didn't fix. I removed the cooler to intake pipe and found coolant, currently removing the cooler for leak tests. I can't see coolant getting into the exhaust side of the turbo like the 6L would do, so I am not sure if the EGR leak would affect the VGT like it would on the 6L. Since we are not allowed to dis-assemble the turbo I can't check either. Anyone run into this issue? I fear EGR cooler leaks are not common and information may be limited. Any input is appreciated.

2009 F350 6.4L no start, p0087, p2291. ICP at 570 PSI cranking and is trying to fire one cylinder. My thought is stuck open or damaged injector. Preliminary inspection has water in the fuel system, upper fuel bowl is full of crap. Kicker is this is a drop in engine still under warranty. I told the customer that Ford will not pay for water damaged fuel components. He proceeded to rant on how Ford is crap, then tells me he has put 4 engines in the truck so far....AND that water in diesel is NORMAL....WTF??? He wants the failed injector replaced and no other repairs to the fuel system...

I was pleasantly surprised. Put in cost cap with repair decision and parts availability to prior approval and got the long block approved in just a few hours, no questions asked. Customer is happy, Boss is happy, all's good now.

If it hasn't been over tightened and the inner piece is still flat, I have been able to replace the oring with out removing the pan. Leave the dipstick in place to hold the inner piece or use a small pair of needle nose vise grips to hold it from falling in.

Engine managed to make it 3 hours before it dropped #3 cylinder. Found this in the intake runner of the head when I had the valve cover off. It matches no bolt used in the assembly of the engine. Held open the valve causig it to hit the piston and bend. No parts available to repair it, no short block available. 3 long blocks in the city, but getting one of those is going to be a bugger. Unless someone is feeling overly generous.

Plastic pushpins and harness retainers are much nicer to work with when the engine only has 3 hours on it. Sadly...you can't remove the right head on a 2016 6.7L with the turbo in place...can't slide the exhaust manifold heat shield out between the manifold and turbo.

2016 F250 6.7L, 114 KM's. Customer just picked it up last night and didn't even make it home. Relative compression #3 27%, with some funky scraping noise coming from the valley area.

Not sure what's going on but I am swamped with work. Rads and oil pan on a 6.7L. Front and rear covers and the HPFP recall on a Transit(dropping the engine on that one, pics will be taken and posted). A couple of poorly running 6L. And a 6.4 that keeps coming back with a new coolant leak each time, getting a water pump which should be the last thing possible to leak coolant. Just finishing a 6.4L metal in fuel system repair. My long block 6.4L is happily on it's way back to B.C. The 6.7L tuned PCM replacement turned out okay. What I thought was a water pump on the 6.4L turned out to be head gaskets, the guy hooked up to his trailer, hit the highway and blew a bunch of coolant out the degas bottle. We are going to give him a deal on it seeing as he just spent $4000 on exhaust manifolds and some other stuff.

The oily soot build up can be caused by excessive idling, low engine temps, poor fuel, oil carry over from the turbo, or poor oil cooler performance. All those should be checked before doing any repairs or this will continue to be a problem. There is a TSB for EGR valve coking on PTS. It has all the information you should need.

Luckily for me my next 4 days of work don't include diagnosing or parts ordering. Latest Email said they are hoping for tomorrow morning.

Latest is it will be down for at least 2 days, and here's the kicker, they have NO BACK UP SERVER SYSTEM....WTF...

Well it's back, blown off the fitting for one of the injectors now. The customer is none to happy. Pulled a sample of fuel and the diesel is cloudy. Again we tell him he needs to flush his tank. Got the service manager on my side with this one, no warranty repairs for this one, and we don't touch it till he lets us clean out his tank.

Found metal in the high pressure system on one of my 2008 6.4L's, got the go ahead to flush and replace everything. The other 2008 6.4L with the damaged valve train is being treated to a long block. Both have almost 300,000 KMS on them.

#1-partial cab lifts on 6.7L engine removals are not necessary. #2- Talked to my service manage, he said that you can contact the warranty department and explain that, due to the set-up of the truck, you are unable to remove the transmission as outlined in the WSM and that engine removal is the only viable option. They should pay.

Bully Dog would be the ONLY tuner I would recommend. Good tunes, user friendly and the staff are awesome to work with if you have issues. 6.7L tuners are expensive because you have to pay extra to unlock the delete feature. You could try finding a used one. Try to split the cost with the customer. Tell them that running a deleted truck with out the tuner on hand is a nightmare waiting to happen and that they should have taken care of that the moment they took possession of the truck. You could throw on them by saying they should have known it was tuned, and it's not your job to know these things. If they are a good customer they just might see your side and cover the cost, or be willing to split it with you. I still say that you shouldn't be responsible for this. Buyer beware.

By the looks of that bellhousing bolt pattern it appears this truck is equipped with the gasser 6.2L, not that it should matter. I'm pretty sure the 6R140 by itself is already heavy enough regardless if it's bolted up to a gasser or oil burner. What kind of tranny jack was used to support to weight of that tranny and transfer case as one? We use a Grey HTJ 1000. 1000 pound capacity. We also got the extra high table fingers just for these transmissions.

2008 F350 surges, P2289: FRP high KOEO. 2008 F350(different truck) bent #1 intake pushrod, Damaged and dislodged #1 exhaust rocker arm, worn #1 exhaust cam lobe. Waiting on repair/replace/ tow out decision.

The last S-110 I overhauled had zero preload on the side bearings. That was back in 2000, so it may have changed. I was a little shocked, but it had no issues when it was back in the truck. Just went through the WSM, zero end play, once you get the lock ring lined up for final torque you end up with very little preload. Had a chance to check on a new unit and verified almost no preload.

My 2008 with the head gasket issue is off to auction.

Customer wanted cam and crank sensors replaced for a self diagnosed check engine light on a 2011 F550 6.7L. Off warranty. Also wanted an oil leak checked. Replaced the vacuum pump gasket for the oil leak and the cam sensor while I was there. Currently taking out the starter because I dropped the crank sensor in the bell housing..... Have a 2008 F350 that I just did turbo up-pipes and replaced the degas bottle hose oring that was leaking(which the customer ended up replacing the rad and all rad hoses before bringing it here, because he couldn't find it). It's now purging out the rad cap... Removed EGR coolers on an already chipped w/ DPF delete 6.4L...turns out the tuner won't recognize the EGR delete and sets P0401.. They say trouble comes in three's. Lets hope that's true or I am going to go gray over the next few days. Managed to fish the sensor out through the starter opening. Any tips on putting this back in without dropping it again? I can only get the truck high enough to sit under it, room is at a premium. Was thinking of grabbing the camera scope off the tech next to me in the morning. Using the camera was useless, got in the way of the sensor going in. Managed to get the sensor in this time. Went in with IDS to reset the crankshaft sensor and guess what codes I pulled? I will start off by saying they had nothing to do with the CMP or CKP. P132B, P2073, and P20BA. Got the go ahead to diagnose the codes. The 2008 had a small nick on the degas bottle cap sealing surface, cleaned it up, new cap, holding at 15 PSI. Purges on road test and loses heat, and the crankcase pressure is on the high side.

How does one access that?

The new DEF tanks and pumps on the 2017 may not be as easily damaged by diesel as the prior years. If you read through the posts on the link I posted, most people are more concerned with Ford Canada's response than the fact that the owner may have been to blame for this.

We are told not to "Top up" any fluids, as they are filled from the factory as well.