lmorris

Digging this one up because it's coming back to haunt me. Had a few lately. Seems these things don't like to idle in the cold without over fueling. Ford has come out with a reprogram to fix the issue. Sadly some of the trucks are tuned/deleted. So far they have all needed the NOX11 module updated, with no NOX sensor plugged in, the update will fail, so they don't get fixed.

Looks like the same crimp made by my VERY old spark plug wire crimp tool, used back when we actually made custom spark plug wire sets.

2011 F550 6.7L tensioner pulley blew off and spit the belt. Customer claims they couldn't shut down the engine with out removing the fuel pump fuse. I charged up the batteries, drove it in and it shuts down just fine for me. Funny, or odd, they didn't think to use the emergency shut down to kill the engine... 2008 F350 6.4L, both belts and tensioners and customer requested alternator.

Looks like an airline truck to me. I think they use them to load stuff on the planes. Sure is. Only way to get the hood open. Good thing our roof is high enough.

Nothing that solder and shrink wrap won't fix. Been there! Including a few of the under side frame to cab ones.

Another "Ever since you.." moment brought to you by the folks with the 2008 F350 6.4L that I replaced the fuel system on over 5000 KM's ago. "We just spent $9000 on this truck and it has an oil leak from the front cover"

I never found out if anything went through it, but it starts and runs fine with the new pump.

Not my job, just in my spare bay because it's the only place it will fit: F650 V10 10,589 hours, 39,000 KM's(24,000 miles). Second engine, keeps spitting out intake valve followers. Same reason the engine was replaced by us last year.

After thinking back on my datalogger readings it was doing that. Finished up on Saturday, all's good. Cat was plugged. Going to have another look at the PPT to see what I missed. There is no easy way to check exhaust restriction on these things first off.

Been chasing a P0420 catalyst below threshold for quite some time now, never could get it away from my wife long enough to do any real diagnosis. When the code first stated setting it never had any drive-ability issues. Then the lack of power started, but very minimal, then the low boost code, then the hesitation. The turbo was changed because it was puking oil at the turbo bypass solenoid. At the time it never occurred to me that the cat may be plugging. After turbo replacement highway power was back to how it was before replacement, but it's still got the bog. Short term fuel trims go to -7% when it happens. Gas tech said to replace the cat. At $255 my cost it's getting one. Both O2 sensors are reading normal.

Sticky IPR is only thing I can think of. The 60% seems high to me.

Reading up on the service procedure to replaced catalytic converter on a 2013 Escape SE AWD 1.6L turbo.....Step 3:remove PTU if equipped....go over to PTU removal..step 2(before removing PTU)...Remove catalytic converter. I'm going to be caught in a WSM loop, what to do? And if that's not messed up enough..I was searching the web for said catalytic converter, Magna flow makes one for the 2L but not the 1.6L. You can get them on E-bay and Amazon, from US based Ford dealerships, for $587-$689 US....I just ordered one from my parts guy for...drum roll, $255 Canadian...WTF...

Same

Not exactly sure what went through it, High pressure system holds pressure. Looks too small for a lifter needle bearing.

What does power balance look like? I had that one with the fuel pump missed timed that ended up having just enough metal in the HP system to cause some funky running concerns and it also sounded like hell off idle. Power balance looked like a wave, all 8 cylinders where all over the place.

Turbo is in and working . Removing the sub-frame is the way to go. However I still have a "chugging/bucking" on acceleration from a coast. Off the line it's great. Coast to make a turn or get slowed down by traffic and go to accelerate and it will chug and go nowhere. If I manually shift the transmission down a gear or 2 to get the revs up, or use cruise control to accelerate, it WON'T do it. Taking my IDS and flight recorder home tonight to get some recordings. This has me stumped. It has new plugs and coils. It also has 160,000 KM'S on it.

I run into a lot of tuners that will not let me run KOER, high pressure fuel tests or use datalogger to control RPM. Most of them can be fixed by updating the tuner's firmware. If it's an H&S unit you may be out of luck. There is a post in aftermarket that should have a link to the last H&S files for download. https://www.dieseltunerpros.com/ However I do agree with the possibility of a shitting install. Check the exhaust harness for issues. If the EGR cooler has been removed, check that harness as well.

Yes...but I managed to get it low enough to see in the pan, it's clean. My guess is lifter needle, seen lots. I have a 2005 engine core at my disposal, might swap front covers and see if it runs. In the process of trying to get the pump pieces out of the cover.

My 2005 F550 came in for the long block. Trying to dig all the broken oil pump gears out of the front cover of the 2006 F550 to see what went through it. Contemplating putting the front cover and pump from the 2005 core on the 2006 with the blown up oil pump. That way I don't have to go find a cover elsewhere.

We are going the opposite. Been having windchills of -40 for the past week and by Monday we jump to above freezing.....I'll finally be able to get the no start 6.7L that only needs a fuel pump pig tail crimped in without having to fill the flat tires and push it in.

Removing the pan next to have a peek.

2006 6L no base oil pressure, got ok to tear down and find the cause. 2006 6L coming in Monday for a drop in engine. 2012 on my hoist waiting for go ahead on DEF tank heater and DPF sensor. 2016 Fuel filters and winter front. 3 Adesa Auction House(Local Ford Motor Company lease return and repo management company) units for no start 6.7L's to pick through. Plus I need to sneak in my 2013 Escape tomorrow after work and start tearing out the turbo.

Over 25 years in the business and it still baffles me that customers bring in vehicles for driveabilty issues and the dash show 20 KM to empty.

Not normal.On the early style pumps, they do this when the HPOP goes bad. Don't quote me, but I believe the new style pump will do this as well if it fails. It's basically allowing the air to flow backwards through the pump, which means it's toast. STC fitting failures usually will give you at least 200 PSI.

If you really don't want to mess around with transferring over the oil filter housing and lines, and they are willing. There is a oil to air cooler set up available that moves the oil filter behind the bumper, or where ever you wish to stick it. It would work slick with this engine swap., and most likely would make future repairs easier as well.