lmorris

07 F350, 346,000 km and 9999.9 hours. runs rough with check engine light on. Pulled codes for #2 contribution, fan speed sensor and ICP circuit. Found open wire in ICP wiring at sensor and replaced pigtail. Ran relative compression, all good, checked crankcase pressure, ok for the hours on the truck. Power balance shows #2 and #6 low. Easy peasy right? NO SUCH LUCK. After having a good look at the valve train and replacing the injectors and the fan clutch, I go for a drive. Shortly into the drive it starts to buck at low RPMs under a load. Get back to the shop to find #8 is now dead. Rerun tests and get #8 contribution code. Shit happens, needs 1 more injector and just for giggles we put in #4 as well because it looked original. Runs good in shop, nice and smooth, get out on the road and HOLY CRAP, it's bucking again. Back to the shop to find #8 is dead again. Run all the tests, only get #8 contribution. Run the injector test and I noticed #8 is not clicking.....I know the injector is new so maybe the FICM went stupid. Put in a new FICM and same issue....Only thing left is the harness...WRONG. Put in the harness with the original FICM and it is the same. Plugged in the new FICM again and same thing. Plugged the old #8 injector back in and no click. For giggles I plugged it into #2 and still no click, which confirmed the injector was in fact bad at that point. Plugged #8 connector into #6 injector and it clicks, so the FICM and harness are good, must be the injector again. Plugged a new injector and it clicks. Installed a second injector into #8, along with the new harness and FICM and it is now good. Only thing I can think of is the FICM went screwy and took out #8 twice. Now try getting the customer to pay for all that.

Same as here.

That is what we did, good flow, good temp. Blend door issues have already been fixed, it needed one motor and a control unit. This truck must be making them good money, they keep wanting to fix it. Been out for 5 days now with no word from the customer. Maybe it was just that stupid worn down water pump. Is so, that would have been two water pumps wrecked by the front cover on the fisrt long block we put in it.

After replacing the waterpump I fed the heater return into the top of the degas and blocked off the tube it connects to. The flow is pretty good and has been putting out good heat. Sadly we don't have any test fluid left and it never gets used enough for them to get new stuff. If this thing comes back again I will be replacing the heads. No more pissing around. I have said I wanted to do this for a week now but never get the actual go ahead to try it. Stupid SPW. Our manager tried to get me a complete long block the first time but he was told no.

It's below 16 psi and it hasn't purged since we changed the short block. I am trying to convince someone to let me change the heads, seeing as they are still from the original enhanced long block and I don't trust them, but no one will because we don't have enough evidence to support it. IMHO we should have swapped out the entire thing when it came back the first time.

We'll welcome you with open arms as long as that avatar stays where it's at.

Hind sight, it has no EGR coolers. Heater core flows good as well as rad, removing the water pump to see what it looks like. Only thing from the original Enhanced long block are the heads. It may be possible we have one cracked.

ECT and EOT never get over 197F and when hot never drop below 192F. Coolant is full, used vacuum drop to fill it. Customer has been checking coolant everyday, cold is in cold range and hot just over the un-used bleed nipple.

It's back, first let me recap history. The original engine melted down. We put in a long block plus #4 injector and a new waterpump. Came back running hot, water pump impellers were spinning on the shaft, replaced the waterpump and thermostats. Then came back for white smoke at idle, noticed coolant all over the degas bottle, diagnosed head gasket issue, replaced head gaskets, came back with same issue. This time we found the reman block flatness was out, so we put in an enhamced short block, re-used the heads because they were flat. Waterpump looked like it had been rubbing on the front cover, hotline said this was normal, so we re-used it. I drove it home, 60km return trip, then it had another 100km put on it before returning to customer, all was good. 5 days later it's back. Customer drove it all day with no issues, then he lost heat. If we run it up to 2000 rpm it will flow through the heater core, let it idle and flow stops. Upper rad hose gets hot, but rad does not. Does not overheat, and when idling we see bubbles in degas, like it is air locked. Sounds like a flow issue to me, but the fact that it doesn't overheat is baffling me. Going to back flush the heater core and check the waterpump and t-stats. If anyone has some incite PLEASE give it. I am going to lose my mind over this one soon!!!!

Donuts... , There used to be a Kristie Kreme donuts in Calgary until the dufus failed to adhere to his contract to bring one to Edmonton and they revoked his franchise..

My bad, poor choice of wording. It's not so much to get people to move here, as it is to get more people into the trade. We all know that things are looking a little sparse in the ranks. I really didn't want to piss anyone off. Sorry djmiller.

Us and 7 other dealerships have formed a group to try and encourage more techs to come to the area. Today they had in a photographer doing a photo shoot of some of us at work. Yours truely was chosen to stand beside the 2010 RCMP Crown Vic I was doing some transmission work on. I will post a link to the site when it's all done.

That sounds like all the GM engines of the 80s and 90s era. Yup, worked at Canadian Tire and Midas during my pre-apprentice days from 88-91

We had this same discussion here at the shop yesturday...weird. I remember when a 4 cylinder took 4 litres, a V6 took 4.5 litres and everthing else took 5 litres.

We had a guy do that to his 6L. The truck stop on the corner now has a bulk DEF pump. Must look like a normal diesel pump. He made just past the entrance of the our lot. Took a new fuel pump and flush to get it going. Wasn't running to good when it left, he declined the new injectors.

Always change the regulator spring first. That is most likely to cause low pressure. When the pumps fail you get no pressure at all and it sets the fuel pump circuit open code.

Last week had 2 come in on the hook for no crank. Jumped the starter with no issues. One had green death on the BJB starter relay, the other had a blown fuse for the relay. The blown fuse one also had an aftermarket remote starter. Nothing found as to what blew the fuse. Anyone else see this?

Heater core on a 2007 F150. Correction, customer diagnosed heater core. I have it out on the bench and no leaks. I even asked if they wanted it verified, they said just give us a price. Frick..what a waste of time.

We have a lot too, maybe not 18" but enough to build two 3 foot high walled snow forts in the back yard. The roads suck, the city ALWAYS claims to be caught by surprise when the first big snow fall hits. We get this crap every year, it's no surprise, . Although, I must give kudos to drivers this year, far less vehicles in the ditch this time.

99 F250 7.3L with a leaing fuel line. You know the one, right side cylinder head supply.

Same here. The Ford winter safety program took us over for a bit. Diesel slowed a bit but they tell me the next two weeks are booked. All this snow throws a loop into things though. Can't road test anything at the moment.

I miss doing balljoints. Good times. Nice write up BTW.

I guess not enough, they drove it out of here this morning.... Mine left too. They have a relative that works at a Ford store south of me. Oh well.

I am leaning more towards the sensor being biased low and reading lower than 500 PSI when the pressure is actually higher, with the PCM ramping IPR up to 85% it should be over 3000 PSI at this point, but the PCM sees below 500 PSI. At this point the PCM sets the P2291 and will not give the FICM any signal to turn them on electrically.

Just to add, if the PCM sees less than 500 PSI it will not activate the injectors.